Oskar
A2OC Donor
This was one of the existing issues with my 'investment'.
I could not determine if it was LH, RH or both, so I bought 2 mounts and started with the Offside RH mount, as the LH one is so difficult to access.
There are a few posts on this, but thought I would share my details for those really new to this.
First thing to do was to put the front up on axel stands, as I need the wheel off, and then later use the floor jack to raise the strut.
(I did not manage to take photos at the time, but have some here for the relevant aspects.)
Next, put on the spring compressors. This was my first issue! My second-hand, old compressors were too long. Photo 1.
On mine, the top clamp is the treaded one, with the bottom clamp just remaing against the 'nut' used to tighten the compressor. This means the threaded rod rises as the clamp is tightended, and was going to impact the actual bodywork at the top of the strut.
I could not invert the clamps, as I could then not tighten them. I could invert the clamp units (put the threaded on at the bottom, and the loose one at the top, held by locking nuts on the end of the threaded rod), but I had no extra nuts of that size.
I utilised some old gate parts to use as spacers holding up the bottom clamp, so the threaded rod would not rise too far as I tightened them. Photo 2.
You may not have this issue, but keep an eye out for it as you tighten your compressors.......
Once the compressors were tightened, it was time to release the strut.
I put the jack under the hub just to stop the strut dropping.
Then undo the top of the strut from under the bonnet. Photo 3.
I used a 22mm ring spanner, but think the nuts may have been 21mm (but I don't have a ring of that size), and a 7mm allen key to hold the stem from turning. As it was not a ratchet spanner, it took a while......
Once the nut was loose, I lowered the jack, and the strut came down with it.
Late Update. the nut is 21mm
Others have stated the anti-roll bar droplinks need to be disconnected, to allow the strut to drop low enough.
I attempted this, but everything was corroded, so I could only get a couple of turns undoing each end. The 5mm allen key socket would burr, so there was no way to retain the bolt against the 16mm nut. Photo 4.
I have heard of others grinding these off, and I was about to get the nut splitter out, but am now happy I did not.
With the droplink slightly loose at both ends, the strut would drop low enough to continue. This may have been the case with the droplink untouched, hard to say.
Next was to undo the 3 bolts at the top holding the bearing. Luckily I had a 13mm ratchet ring spanner with a flexible head, so it was easy. A socket and ratchet will also likely fit.
This allowed the mount to drop down onto the strut. If you push the piston down, there should be enough room to manoeuvre the mount off the strut completely, otherwise you may need to disconnect that droplink.....
It was completely stuffed, and would not turn at all, so this was definetly the correct side to fix first! Photo 5. It does not look damaged, and in fact looks quite new, but the bearing element was b****red.
The part I choose was a Febi one, about £20 per side, part numbers etc as per Photo 6.
Then I made a mistake. I introduced the new mount, and tightened it up onto the body with the 3 bolts. I then attempted to raise the strut with the jack, and guide the piston into the hole in the new mount. Whatever I did, I could not get the threaded section at the top of the piston into the hole, and I could not get purchase on the piston to 'feed' it up. An hour wasted......
The key is to introduce the new mount, and sit it on top of the piston first, and replace the nut (or anything else) just a couple of turns just to hold it on. Then, you can manually raise the new mount bearing and align it, so the 3 bolts can be dropped in and tightended. This will leave you with the new mount bolted on correctly, and the ability to 'pull up' the piston using the nut or whatever you may have used.
Line everything up, and get the spring into the correct place, and jack it all up until the weight has been 'taken'. Once you are sure it is all where it should be, you can then tighten the nut at the top of the piston. (Photo 3). It will take ages, as there is a lot of thread to come up, and it needs to all come up.
Check it all again, and release the spring compressor.
Of course, you can forget to re-tighten the droplink bolts, as I did, and you will hear very scary and serious noises as you drive along. Thankfully, even with all the corrosion, they tightened up OK. They need to be TIGHT.
Of course, I should change the mounts as a pair, however as the offside one is such a pain in RHD cars, due to the brake fluid resevoir etc, I am avoiding doing that one until I have some time....
It's hard to believe they actually engineered things in such an awkward manner!
The result is great. No noise, better turning, and more reassuring.
Cheers
Matt
I could not determine if it was LH, RH or both, so I bought 2 mounts and started with the Offside RH mount, as the LH one is so difficult to access.
There are a few posts on this, but thought I would share my details for those really new to this.
First thing to do was to put the front up on axel stands, as I need the wheel off, and then later use the floor jack to raise the strut.
(I did not manage to take photos at the time, but have some here for the relevant aspects.)
Next, put on the spring compressors. This was my first issue! My second-hand, old compressors were too long. Photo 1.
On mine, the top clamp is the treaded one, with the bottom clamp just remaing against the 'nut' used to tighten the compressor. This means the threaded rod rises as the clamp is tightended, and was going to impact the actual bodywork at the top of the strut.
I could not invert the clamps, as I could then not tighten them. I could invert the clamp units (put the threaded on at the bottom, and the loose one at the top, held by locking nuts on the end of the threaded rod), but I had no extra nuts of that size.
I utilised some old gate parts to use as spacers holding up the bottom clamp, so the threaded rod would not rise too far as I tightened them. Photo 2.
You may not have this issue, but keep an eye out for it as you tighten your compressors.......
Once the compressors were tightened, it was time to release the strut.
I put the jack under the hub just to stop the strut dropping.
Then undo the top of the strut from under the bonnet. Photo 3.
I used a 22mm ring spanner, but think the nuts may have been 21mm (but I don't have a ring of that size), and a 7mm allen key to hold the stem from turning. As it was not a ratchet spanner, it took a while......
Once the nut was loose, I lowered the jack, and the strut came down with it.
Late Update. the nut is 21mm
Others have stated the anti-roll bar droplinks need to be disconnected, to allow the strut to drop low enough.
I attempted this, but everything was corroded, so I could only get a couple of turns undoing each end. The 5mm allen key socket would burr, so there was no way to retain the bolt against the 16mm nut. Photo 4.
I have heard of others grinding these off, and I was about to get the nut splitter out, but am now happy I did not.
With the droplink slightly loose at both ends, the strut would drop low enough to continue. This may have been the case with the droplink untouched, hard to say.
Next was to undo the 3 bolts at the top holding the bearing. Luckily I had a 13mm ratchet ring spanner with a flexible head, so it was easy. A socket and ratchet will also likely fit.
This allowed the mount to drop down onto the strut. If you push the piston down, there should be enough room to manoeuvre the mount off the strut completely, otherwise you may need to disconnect that droplink.....
It was completely stuffed, and would not turn at all, so this was definetly the correct side to fix first! Photo 5. It does not look damaged, and in fact looks quite new, but the bearing element was b****red.
The part I choose was a Febi one, about £20 per side, part numbers etc as per Photo 6.
Then I made a mistake. I introduced the new mount, and tightened it up onto the body with the 3 bolts. I then attempted to raise the strut with the jack, and guide the piston into the hole in the new mount. Whatever I did, I could not get the threaded section at the top of the piston into the hole, and I could not get purchase on the piston to 'feed' it up. An hour wasted......
The key is to introduce the new mount, and sit it on top of the piston first, and replace the nut (or anything else) just a couple of turns just to hold it on. Then, you can manually raise the new mount bearing and align it, so the 3 bolts can be dropped in and tightended. This will leave you with the new mount bolted on correctly, and the ability to 'pull up' the piston using the nut or whatever you may have used.
Line everything up, and get the spring into the correct place, and jack it all up until the weight has been 'taken'. Once you are sure it is all where it should be, you can then tighten the nut at the top of the piston. (Photo 3). It will take ages, as there is a lot of thread to come up, and it needs to all come up.
Check it all again, and release the spring compressor.
Of course, you can forget to re-tighten the droplink bolts, as I did, and you will hear very scary and serious noises as you drive along. Thankfully, even with all the corrosion, they tightened up OK. They need to be TIGHT.
Of course, I should change the mounts as a pair, however as the offside one is such a pain in RHD cars, due to the brake fluid resevoir etc, I am avoiding doing that one until I have some time....
It's hard to believe they actually engineered things in such an awkward manner!
The result is great. No noise, better turning, and more reassuring.
Cheers
Matt
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