Oskar
A2OC Donor
Hi again.
When I bought my A2, I knew (and could see) that the drivers window had a gap and was not moving. In my early ignorance, I was thinking this was CCU related, but after further investigation it was obviously a 'physical' issue.
After taking off the door card (not too difficult - just take out the screw behind the tweeter cover, and the 2 below the armrest, then pull off the card starting at the bottom), and then the inner door liner (a bit more tricky, especially if untouched from factory, as it will be glued along the inner door 'bar' towards the bottom), it revealed the cable had broken, but more importantly, one of the lower pulley mounts had broken.
There are plenty of posts and videos on taking the door apart, so just have a look at those. Care needs to be made when taking off the mirror inner plastics, and the door seal areas where the window ends and the door skin starts. There are some hidden locating studs etc that you don't want to break.
Some research was then performed, and thanks to all those who have posted before, it was really clear that a complete door frame replacement is by far the recommended action, and especially necessary in my case due to the broken pulley mount. On the attached photo, you will note the lower pulley mounts are allow. On my old one, they are black plastic. I'm not sure when/why/how the change happened, but would recommend anyone looking at this to choose the alloy version.
As my A2 is early 2001, it could be a later model upgrade.
A quick look at eBay and I found a drivers RHD frame for £30 delivered. A bargain in my eyes.
Quickly delivered, a bit of a clean up and glass transfer (all easy and obvious), and it all went straight back in.
My real question was about aligning the motor and the glass position (e.g. do I need to be careful about the up/down position of the glass when I replace the motor), but there was nothing I could find on this, so thought it may not matter. I did not appear to matter. With the door all back in place, the window ran up and down as it should. A bit of 'setting' on the up and down stroke, and the one-touch also worked as it should. (Use the button to go fully down, release, and push down again quickly, and the same for up, should set the one touch limits).
A great fix for £30, as long as it lasts. Recabling the frame sounded like a real performance, and even though was £20 cheaper, a lot more hassle....
Cheers
Matt
When I bought my A2, I knew (and could see) that the drivers window had a gap and was not moving. In my early ignorance, I was thinking this was CCU related, but after further investigation it was obviously a 'physical' issue.
After taking off the door card (not too difficult - just take out the screw behind the tweeter cover, and the 2 below the armrest, then pull off the card starting at the bottom), and then the inner door liner (a bit more tricky, especially if untouched from factory, as it will be glued along the inner door 'bar' towards the bottom), it revealed the cable had broken, but more importantly, one of the lower pulley mounts had broken.
There are plenty of posts and videos on taking the door apart, so just have a look at those. Care needs to be made when taking off the mirror inner plastics, and the door seal areas where the window ends and the door skin starts. There are some hidden locating studs etc that you don't want to break.
Some research was then performed, and thanks to all those who have posted before, it was really clear that a complete door frame replacement is by far the recommended action, and especially necessary in my case due to the broken pulley mount. On the attached photo, you will note the lower pulley mounts are allow. On my old one, they are black plastic. I'm not sure when/why/how the change happened, but would recommend anyone looking at this to choose the alloy version.
As my A2 is early 2001, it could be a later model upgrade.
A quick look at eBay and I found a drivers RHD frame for £30 delivered. A bargain in my eyes.
Quickly delivered, a bit of a clean up and glass transfer (all easy and obvious), and it all went straight back in.
My real question was about aligning the motor and the glass position (e.g. do I need to be careful about the up/down position of the glass when I replace the motor), but there was nothing I could find on this, so thought it may not matter. I did not appear to matter. With the door all back in place, the window ran up and down as it should. A bit of 'setting' on the up and down stroke, and the one-touch also worked as it should. (Use the button to go fully down, release, and push down again quickly, and the same for up, should set the one touch limits).
A great fix for £30, as long as it lasts. Recabling the frame sounded like a real performance, and even though was £20 cheaper, a lot more hassle....
Cheers
Matt
