Centre Armrest

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maersk

maersk

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Very nice thing.
But, are the fixings passivated? Di-chromate etc? Does it screw into the floorpan or is there a steel plate available in the floor of the rear ashtray, 'cos if they are not and it isn't cathodic reaction is a very real possibility and corrosion WILL occurr.
Please tell me I am wrong.
I am not really a killjoy.
All you aftermarket radio and stereo fixers take heed also with the fixing of your kit. This applies to you too.

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There are two sides to this, the first being cathodic corrosion.

The second, and less well known, is that when in contact for a period steel and aluminium fuse together - even if you keep it perfectly dry you may never get the bolts out again

Ian

2002 1.4 Petrol SE, silver with climate control.
Why are NEARLY all the A2s in Lichfield are silver ? ? ?
 
Hi,

It looked like the plate under the tray is aluminium. Does this mean then we have to use aluminium screws ??
If this is going to be a problem I'll ask the Audi dealer for advice (and screws). If there is a special screw they're bound to have it !


Dennis de Held

Amulet Red 1.4 Tdi
 
The dingos kidneys are bolts and screws passivated with dachromet which leaves them looking greenish in colour.
Audi should be able to supply. This will remove the problem of contact corrosion.

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Hi,

I was just showing the pictures to my brother, who works at a VW garage.
And he told me that it's not wise to drill through the chassis number. In fact, the car can get into trouble for its MOT/APK/TUV test....If they see that the chassis number is tampered with then the car has to get a new chassisnumber and a new license registration.
I don't know how strict they are with these tests but he told me that it's mandatory to check the chassis number.

I though that maybe it's possible to attach the armrest to the astray and not to the car. By clucking the ashtray in it's play the armrest is in place to. And the main weight on the rest is ditributed to the handbrake.

Maybe we could:

Drill a hole in the ashtray
Use a small bolt and insert it upwards from the ashtray into the armrest so that the nut is on the armrest.
If there is not enough space to accomodate the bolt we could hammer the plate with the number down. This is allowed as long as the number remains visible.
If this doesnt't keep the armest firmly enough in it's position we can always screw the ashtray to the console with a screw in the back of the ashtray.

Any more thoughts ???

Thanks !

Dennis de Held

Amulet Red 1.4 Tdi
 
I've checked it out yesterday and the fixing method i've described should work. There is about 5mm space between the bottom of the ashtray and the chassisnumberplate. Using a bolt with a low philips head is definetly possible.
The ashtray is quite firmly in place so it should be able to hold the armrest in place. If not then it's also possible to use a screw (parker) to fix it. There's a piece of plastic under the rearend of the ashtray.

This way we don't have to worry about the screws ! Like Johan Cruijff says every disadvantage has it's advantage.



Dennis de Held

Amulet Red 1.4 Tdi
 
wat een schitterende quote naar de Messias JC en dat voor een Rotterdammer :)

Jeff Huisman
2000 silver coloured A2 with some options :)
 
You are possibly right about getting into trouble for dilling into the chassis number - however a few of things to bare in mind:

- The chassis numbers really are quite large
- The hole you drill for the screw really is quite small and so the numbers are still clearly readable
- The chassis number is also shown on the dashboard through the windscreen

It's obviously not ideal and the manufacturer knows this but it is not enough just to use the plastic ashtray to support the weight of the armrest, it does need a stronger base.

You should also remember that the one fitted in my car is a prototype and so the design could potentially change over the next few months.

2001 TDi SE | Cobalt Blue Metallic | Open Sky Roof | Kenwood Mask CD | Front Centre Armrest
www.Audi-A2.co.uk | www.A2Forum.net
 
I don't really think you should have any worries about steel to aluminium corrosion because after all the whole engine and power train are held together with steel nuts and bolts (plated admittedly).Unless I've got the wrong of the stick here, coating the fixings with "copaslip" or similar would surely prevent corrosion.Unless the fixings are exposed to salt, there would be little to worry about.In my view salt is the real problem, especially with engine fixings (of any material)that have been in position for 10 years or so and although seemingly in for good, can usually be got out with heat.I digress.
Regards JohnW 2002 TDI SE(the Rattler)
 
There is a significant differenc between thick sand and die cast engine casings (many oth the thinner ones are now plastic anyway) anthe thin body panels which are elctrically charged as the earth return.

If you don't think it is a problem ask an owner of an old land rover or range rover. The coated bolts were not used here and they have rusted (corroded)in significant areas where the alu body is bolted to steel. They have to be rendered non conductive or they form a simple battery and the corosion takes place. Copaslip conducts electricity and therefore does not prevent the problem.

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