Diy wheel alignment check/set

robskiA2tdi

robskiA2tdi

Member
What's your input on below setup to check wheel alignment after some front suspension works?
Steering wheel staight,
laser level on plank of wood touching alloy rim in the middle of its height ,
rear wheel first - vertical laser line position marked on white plate placed in front of car (marker "0")
front wheel next with laser level in same spot as rear wheel earlier - position marked for comparison,
then the same done for other side
marker "0" can be there already and plate can be moved and secured when laser V line is on it then front V line marked up
would this way be OK as temp solution before visit in garage for proper alignment?
 

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Wow this is actually brilliant idea. I used strings measuring the distance from rear rim exactly 1 inch on each side then make sure it's exactly the same number whatever the number is on front wheel rim on both sides. Your version is a lot easier quicker and more accurate than my strings.
 
This looks a good solution to establish an accurate basic setting of no toe-in or toe-out. I'm assuming that before you make any adjustment you'll take account of the rear track being narrower than the front track? Then adjust the front track rod ends to take off any excess / make good any deficiency in the expected distance between the two lines.

I believe tracking adjustment operatives are mainly trained to leave a little toe-out to keep the steering more stable - around a degree on each side. If you were going to try for a setting useable on an ongoing basis yourself, what that angle would translate to in terms of the distances between the inner and outer laser marks, you'd have to work out each time - as it would depend on the distance of the front wheel centre from the wall on each side.

Also, the whole thing relies on the back axle being mounted absolutely central and perpendicular to the centreline of the car - not an unreasonable assumption, unless you know you've had it off the car to restore etc.
 
Proghound said:
This looks a good solution to establish an accurate basic setting of no toe-in or toe-out. I'm assuming that before you make any adjustment you'll take account of the rear track being narrower than the front track? Then adjust the front track rod ends to take off any excess / make good any deficiency in the expected distance between the two lines.

I believe tracking adjustment operatives are mainly trained to leave a little toe-out to keep the steering more stable - around a degree on each side. If you were going to try for a setting useable on an ongoing basis yourself, what that angle would translate to in terms of the distances between the inner and outer laser marks, you'd have to work out each time - as it would depend on the distance of the front wheel centre from the wall on each side.

Also, the whole thing relies on the back axle being mounted absolutely central and perpendicular to the centreline of the car - not an unreasonableassumption, unless you know you've had it off the car to restore etc.
Click to expand...
my main aim is to be able to quickly check and set each side to be good enough to drive few days before proper laser "eagle eye" alignment done, also to take a note about how it is set after proper adjustment for future ref
 
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