Engine Management Diagnostic False Air AUA BBY

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Hello to all,
I hope you're well and have been enjoying your car(s).

Introduction​

Over time, management systems that control the fuel-air mixture in internal combustion engines have evolved. Computerised engine management systems have decreased pollution levels from exhaust pipes by enhancing combustion control and the utilisation of efficient catalytic converters. While engine sensors continuously relay information to the ECU, a poorly maintained subsystem may lead to erroneous fault indications from a sensor.

Observation
It is improbable that the sensors are causing a fault; therefore, replacing them merely on suspicion of malfunction is not advisable. This is simple advice, but often we start with the replacement of sensors. Most sensors can undergo electrical testing for voltage supply, resistance, and by monitoring their VCDS measuring blocks, topics that are discussed in other sections of this forum.

AUA_BBY_ENGINE_MANGEMENT_COLOUR_CROP.jpg

Image: AUA and BBY engine management systems


If the check engine light on the dashboard is the only sensor data available to you, it may be simpler and more cost-effective to repair a subsystem instead of a sensor. This post should prove useful for those who do not have access to VCDS software.
These subsystems include water cooling, oil circulation, piped air, and fuel delivery. Granted the fault could be electrical, that issue is often resolved by cleaning earthing points and inspecting the wiring looms. For suspected electrical issues, discussions on this topic can be found in other sections of this forum.

NOTE:
I have no qualifications in any automotive subject area.
In the spring of 2024, a second-hand BBY was fitted to my car, and the observations made in this post are based on my experience with that engine.

NOTE 2:
The AUA and BBY petrol engines produce condensation, seen as water dripping from the exhaust pipe.
Seeing a puddle of water near the exhaust should not cause alarm; it does not definitively indicate a head gasket failure. A coolant tester kit or compression leak-down test will perform this check if you suspect head gasket failure.

NOTE 3:
Discovering a minor mixture of emulsified oil and water on the underside of the oil filler cap does not necessarily indicate a head gasket failure. To minimize the likelihood of this occurrence, consider taking longer trips occasionally, or if that doesn't help, replace the camshaft and crankcase breathers.

Subsystem: Air​

The piston's downward movement draws air into the cylinder. This is achieved through the action of the AUA and BBY engine camshafts, which open the air inlet valve. There is discussion on the forum somewhere if you think you may have a valve that is stuck open.

The ECU regulates the volume of air in the intake manifold using a butterfly throttle valve.
Upon activation of the exhaust gas recirculation system (EGR), the ECU modifies the air inlet.
An active charcoal filter (ACF) and a valve that the ECU opens or closes allow the fuel tank vapour to vent into the throttle body area.
The brake booster assists with braking force by utilising the vacuum generated as air is drawn into the engine. A one-way valve prevents the air in the booster holding vessel from escaping.
A dedicated pressure release controlled crank case breather vents oil vapour and condensation to be burned off in the combustion chamber by recirculating the vapours back into the air flow below the throttle body.

Observation
If a vehicle has outdated components, it would be wise to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils. However, I did not replace them until I had changed every component of the air subsystem.
Oil typically enters the spark plug well when the engine breathers get clogged or stuck, which pressurizes the camshaft cover and leads to leaks. Discussions about repairs can be found in other threads on the forum.

All non-electrical parts of the air system should be either replaced or repaired. With access to engine diagrams from sources like 7ZAP and erWIN, we can pinpoint the components and their locations within each subsystem.

Let's get started! The VCDS has provided an engine management error code indicating a possible misfire in cylinder 4, an implausible MAP sensor signal, or a lambda sensor that is out of range. If you have access to VCDS, save and clear the faults.

If you don't have access to VCDS, you might notice symptoms such as a check-engine light, misfires, poor idling, an overheated engine, or a pronounced smell of unburnt fuel from the exhaust.

You could also experience an engine that does not start.

If you have no fault codes, it is worth thinking about a preventative maintenance checklist to work through (see items 1 through 29 below).

After following my own advice and not replacing a single sensor, the faults I experienced have gone.

To recap, the three elements that we can manage with our maintenance are fuel, air, and ignition.
Out of those three items, by far the lowest-cost parts to replace are the rubber seals, metal gaskets, rubber air hoses, and their clips and clamps.
Rubber and plastic in the engine compartment deteriorate with time because of temperature differences, vibration, shrinkage, wear, chemical exposure, and the general hardening rubber experiences as time passes.



Start Point​

There are four pipes/hoses that connect to the intake system after the throttle body butterfly valve.

Giving four possibilities for an air leak stemming from each run of pipe in just one location.

Addressing air anomalies is critical in this area, primarily because it situated after the air has been regulated by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) and the position of the throttle butterfly valve.

Air leaks in this area can create fault codes due to false air.

20240226_104411.jpg

Image: Throttle Body Aluminium Mounting Bracket and Air Intake Manifold (Air Hose Connection Hub)

To recap, once false air is present, the possible error codes could be oxygen sensor, injector misfire, or manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP)-related.


20240321_134359.jpg

Image: AUA and BBY Engine Bay Rubber Seals, Gaskets and Hoses

1.Intake Manifold
2. Fuel Rail
3. Intake manifold seals
4. Oil level/temp sensor
5. Crankcase Breather
6. Brake Boost Hose and Check Valve
7. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
8. Activated Charcoal Filter Valve and Hose
9. Crank Case Breather Pipe
10.Crank Case Breather Seals
11. Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)
12. Dip Stick and Tube
13. Slam Panel Dipstick Holder
14. Oil Cap and Seal
15. Slam Panel Oil Filler Housing
16. Oil Filler Tube
17. Oil Filler Cap and Seal
18. Thorough Body Mating Surface
19. Throttle Body Metal Gasket
20.Throttle Body Aluminum Mounting Bracket
21. Throttle Body Aluminum Mounting Bracket Seal
22. EGR Pipe Seal
23. EGR Valve
24. EGR Valve Seal
25. Oil Pressure Sensor
26. Camshaft position sensor
27. Camshaft Breather
28. EGR Pipe
29. EGR Pipe Metal Gasket


Good Luck with your repairs!

Engine Management Diagnostic Diagram AUA BBY
 
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Component Parts​


1. Intake Manifold
The intake manifold has four oval-shaped rubber square section seals that fit between the cylinder head and the plastic body of the manifold. The injector fitted with a new lower o-ring seal pushes into the intake manifold.
2. Fuel Rail
The injector fitted with a new upper o-ring seal pushes in to the fuel rail.
3. Intake manifold seals
As above, the seals are coloured green, are oval-shaped and have a square profile.
4. Oil level/temp sensor
The sensor seals into the sump. If it leaks, replace or repair the seal.
5. Crankcase Breather
The breather is located on the rear offside of the engine block. There are two seals that are fitted here, seen at location number 10 in the photograph contained in the first posting in this thread.

20240321_180930-COLLAGE[1].jpg

6. Brake, Boost Hose, and Check Valve
The hose is connected to the intake manifold at one end with a 90-degree rubber hose and two fit for life band clamps, remove the clamps and fit the correct sized spring clamps. The other end has a one-way check valve that is thermally sealed to the plastic pipe check for leaks and damage. The other side of the valve has a barbed end that fits into the grommet in the brake booster body. Renew grommet if the rubber has hardened.
7. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
The MAP sensor is located on the off-side of the intake manifold and has two rubber o-ring seals to be renew.
8. Activated Charcoal Filter Valve and Hose
This long hose travels from the canister found under the off-side wheel arch liner; the other end fits on the throttle body aluminium mounting bracket. The valve sits midway between the two ends of the hose and is fixed with fit for life spring clamps. Replace the hose and the spring clamps.
These hoses tend to become inflexible and hardened by constant exposure to fuel vapour.

20240321_181720-COLLAGE.jpg

9. Crank Case Breather Pipe
There are two pipe variations : an end-to-end rubber hose or a serrated plastic pipe with an o-ring seal at each end. Replace the o-rings and check pipes for damage. Fit new spring clamps on the rubber pipe.
10. Crankcase Breather Seals
As above, seals the plastic breather housing to the engine block.

20240321_182359-COLLAGE[1].jpg


11. Activated Charcoal Filter (ACF)
This has two pipe fittings attached to it that should be airtight.
12. Dip Stick and Tube
The dip stick has an o-ring to be replaced. The end of the dip stick housing tube where it slots into the engine has an o-ring on each plastic pipe.

20240321_183320-COLLAGE[1].jpg


13. Slam Panel Dipstick Holder
If this is broken or sometimes cracked, it will need replacing or repairing to maintain the seal.
14. Oil Cap and Seal
Not to be overlooked, this part is critical for a good camshaft seal.
15. Slam Panel Oil Filler Housing
If this is damaged, unwanted air will be drawn into the crankcase; it must be replaced or repaired. To maintain correct functioning of the crank case breather pressure release system.
16. Oil Filler Tube
The serrated plastic oil filler tube becomes brittle and must be replaced or repaired if damaged. There is an o-ring seal where it fixes to the slam panel oil filler housing.
17. Oil Filler Cap and Seal
The slam panel oil filler housing has its own oil cap that must be sealed with the correct rubber gasket.
18. Throttle Body Mating Surface
There should not be any damage to the lower part of the aluminium throttle body where it sits up against the metal gasket.

20240321_183713-COLLAGE[1].jpg

19. Throttle Body Metal Gasket
These should be renewed each time the throttle body is removed.
20.Throttle Body Aluminium Mounting Bracket
Mating surfaces should have no deep scratches or gouging where the metal gasket and lower seal are located.

20240321_185120-COLLAGE[1].jpg

21. Throttle Body Aluminium Mounting Bracket Seal

Green rubber square section seal
22. EGR Pipe Seal
Metal gasket between the pipe and valve replace with new.
23. EGR Valve
Seal on both side of the valve number 22 and 24.
24. EGR Valve Seal
Metal gasket between the valve and cylinder head

20240321_184549-COLLAGE[1].jpg


25. Oil pressure sensor
There should be no oil leaks from the sensor; replace it if there are.
26. Camshaft Position Sensor
It is located on top of the camshaft cover and has an o-ring to seal it.
27. Camshaft Breather
Located on top of the camshaft cover, with a straight rubber pipe below and a shaped rubber pipe above the plastic breather body,
28. EGR Pipe
This metal pipe can become blocked or damaged. Check for leaks and blockages.
29. EGR Pipe Metal Gasket
A diamond-shaped metal gasket fits between the pipe and throttle body aluminium mounting bracket.

20240321_184859-COLLAGE[1].jpg
 
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To maintain your air system, you don't need to buy a single, highly specialised, expensive item.

Hand Tools​

Hexagonal sockets or keys (£10–£15)
Torx sockets or keys (£10-£15)
Spring clamp compression tool (Amazon, £12)
Small/medium socket set (£20)
Trim removal tools, (if removing windscreen plastic scuttle, £10–£15 Amazon)
Vernier callipers to measure o-rings (£10–£15 Amazon)

Cleaning​

x 100 disposable gloves (£4 home bargains)
Rags/paper towels (jumbo roll, £2 Home bargains)
Toothbrush (pack of three 99p home bargains)
Brake cleaner/carb cleaner (£3-£10; shop around)
Plastic polish (not required) (£5)
Scraping tool (an old knife from the kitchen drawer) (free)
Chrome cream cleaner to polish aluminium items (not required) (£5-£10)
 
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References​

Audi Workshop Manual
Audi A2 2001
MM-MPI injection and ignition system (4-cylinder)
Engine ID AUA
Edition 06.2000


Intake Manifold diagram.JPG
Throttle Body_TORQUE.JPG
 

Attachments

  • AUDI A2 self study engine gearbox.zip
    2 MB · Views: 20
  • Electronic Power Control.zip
    1.6 MB · Views: 18
  • Euro On-Board Diagnostic System.zip
    1.1 MB · Views: 15
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My FSI is running lean, (lambda adjustment value is up at over 20%)
I am assuming it’s a similar issue, false air getting into the system after the MAF.

I’m going to try waving an un ignited blow torch around the engine while it idles, the idea being the revs should spike if held near a leak so the gas ends up in the intake air.

If that is not conclusive then the next method I will try is sealing off the intake and pressurising the vacuum system with smoke. This can be done using smouldering coffe grounds in an old jar with a rubber glove over the top, with holes cut in the ends of two fingers, one for a bicycle pump and the other to connect to the intake system. A laser pointer can then be used to help spot any smoke escaping.

If these methods are successful then I’ll try the same on the 1.4 at some point…
 
Hi @Indi,

Please film it, or at the very least, I would love to see pictures of the rubber glove and bicycle pump smoke machine.

Brilliant, just brilliant.

take it easy


Edit
My FSI knowledge is zero. ☹️
 
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@rotifer once again, this is excellent!!

Even just having high quality pictures of original parts where you can see the manufacturer is endlessly helpful when trying to buy OEM + all of your explanation…

Thank you very much :D
 
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