mk02 abs unit soft coding out the esp .

K

kraig22

Member
ok ive found that the yaw rate sensor in the early model is a complete waste of time replacing as the replacement will
fail in the same way in the future . im looking into vagcom coding the esp out completely as the same era seat arosa has no esp and has abs and traction control. Has anyone else took this root ? as the yaw rate sensor fault is way more dangerous than having a car with esp . i should be able to pull the coding from my brothers abs unit to achieve the correct coding . ive seen s3 owners have done the same . just wanted to check in here to see if anyones already done it .
 
The only coding options, for the MK20 ABS Controller, are:
C00,Brake Electronics (J104/MK20) Coding
C01,10758 = 1.4l/55kW MPI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
C02,10758 = 1.4l/55kW TDI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
C03,10764 = 1.2l/45kW TDI (mechanical Steering)
C04,10765 = 1.2l/45kW TDI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
Mac.
Edit: I think you'd need to swap the complete controller from a non ESP car. But the setup parameters for the different car, sensors etc, may not match.
The original yaw sensors must have lasted 20 odd years, so surely, can't be that unreliable?
Mac.
 
Last edited:
PlasticMac said:
The only coding options, for the MK20 ABS Controller, are:
C00,Brake Electronics (J104/MK20) Coding
C01,10758 = 1.4l/55kW MPI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
C02,10758 = 1.4l/55kW TDI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
C03,10764 = 1.2l/45kW TDI (mechanical Steering)
C04,10765 = 1.2l/45kW TDI (electro-hydraulic Steering)
Mac.
Click to expand...
well that is not what i want to hear lol . petrol bomb to the tdi then . not happy with a fault that slams the brakes on with no warning. its the second yaw rate sensor in two years .
 
yeh the first one lasted 20 years but the only ones around now are the same age or remanufactured that last a year . id rather get another car than do that yearly .
 
its not as easy on the yaw rate sensor as it got a chunky plastic bracket moulded into the case and from the side i can get to i have these hair like connections to the plug out , if they were easy to remove the board would be easy to to check the other side . nothing looks like it has bad solder joints from the top side . i think i will kill it if i detach these
 

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