Removing the alternator with corroded bushings (1.4 AUA)

lavandism

lavandism

Member
Hello there,

my alternator is stuck on rusted bushings (white arrow). Tapping the nut (grey arrow) with a hammer to push it out while bathing in wd40 did not really help.
I am currently considering to get a proper rust removing penetrating oil, but I wonder if that will do any difference. Anybody has dealt with something similar?

1712261504261.png
 
lavandism said:
Hello there,

my alternator is stuck on rusted bushings (white arrow). Tapping the nut (grey arrow) with a hammer to push it out while bathing in wd40 did not really help.
I am currently considering to get a proper rust removing penetrating oil, but I wonder if that will do any difference. Anybody has dealt with something similar?

View attachment 121814
Click to expand...
Hi

I use PB Blaster, others are available

J
 
Sounds like corrosion caused by galvanic action.

Hello
It's a good start if you can take out both bolts.
You are following the directions as Audi advises to drive out the bushes, I did need to read the workshop manual to double check

In the event that the Audi approach proves ineffective, I suggest using a pry bar and folded cardboard to protect the housing on aluminium alternator. When the alternator begins to pull away from the mount bracket, you can slide a bit of wood between the mounting backplate and pry bar to give extra leverage.
It is possible to lever the alternator off of the mounting bracket without having to take the bushings off.

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Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
Sounds like corrosion caused by galvanic action.

Hello
It's a good start if you can take out both bolts.
You are following the directions as Audi advises to drive out the bushes, I did need to read the workshop manual to double check

In the event that the Audi approach proves ineffective, I suggest using a pry bar and folded cardboard to protect the housing on aluminium alternator. When the alternator begins to pull away from the mount bracket, you can slide a bit of wood between the mounting backplate and pry bar to give extra leverage.
It is possible to lever the alternator off of the mounting bracket without having to take the bushings off.

View attachment 121817View attachment 121818
Click to expand...

Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum + water from the distorted hood nozzle, I suppose.
Based on your pics, bushes are actually moving only within the alternator flange? They are not stuck inside the mount?

I had in mind something like this:
1712297655866.png
 
Joga said:
Bushes are not stuck in the mount. Just wiggle (or pry) the alternator away from the mount after the screws are removed.
Click to expand...
Got me thinking: technically it should be possible to chisel the bush off the mount with a thin chisel?
 
Hi,
Is the chisel method you describe going to be used because you don't have access to a pry bar?
Or is it a hypothetical question?
:) 👍
 
rotifer said:
Hi,
Is the chisel method you describe going to be used because you don't have access to a pry bar?
Or is it a hypothetical question?
:) 👍
Click to expand...
Hypothetical mostly! (I do have neither prybar nor chisel yet - the toolbox is still growing).
But it seemed as a bit more precise option which would break the rust seal directly, instead of leveraging the pry bar against the block.
 
Thanks for the reply.
Question....
What solid bits of metal that are about half a meter long have you got to hand? Anything to act as a lever basically.

Is the alternator having a new voltage regulator fitted. Or is it going to be recycled and a new alternator fitted?
This question is being asked because depending on the answer I can suggest different methods of removal with the materials / tools you have available.
:)👍

Just confirm please, you have successfully removed both mounting bolts.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
Thanks for the reply.
Question....
What solid bits of metal that are about half a meter long have you got to hand? Anything to act as a lever basically.

Is the alternator having a new voltage regulator fitted. Or is it going to be recycled and a new alternator fitted?
This question is being asked because depending on the answer I can suggest different methods of removal with the materials / tools you have available.
:)👍

Just confirm please, you have successfully removed both mounting bolts.
Click to expand...
I have successfully removed mounting bolts (two), alternator is being held only by rust. The bolt present in the photo has been reinstalled to tap the bushing.

I tried to leverage the alternator with a spanner, to no avail. But I was not doing it properly, as I was unsure in which direction to leverage (I thought bushing needs some lateral movement first). Edit: I'll get a prybar and try the A2OC extraction method during the weekend.

A completely new alternator will be fitted.
I did not find any refurbishment service/alternator recycling where I reside, but I'll ask my preferred garage for some references. Still, I try to seek the least destructive method if possible, for the sake of doing the job clean. I'll think about what to do with the old alt once I examine its condition.
 
Hi,
Good to hear that both bolts are removable.
The A2oc method, I've got other removal ideas but they introduce the risk breaking the alternator.
When I mentioned, recycling, the metal skip at the municipal dump would be where I recycle a broken alternator. Lets wait and see what your mechanic suggests. They may take it off your hands and weigh it in with their other scrap metal to make the business some cash.
I wish you good luck removing the rusted alternator. Take some photos and keep us posted on the progress.

:)👍
 
I think you might be overcautious here. 🙂 To my experience the only role corrosion has in this situation is between the bushes and the alternator lugs. This corrosion prohibits the now wanted axial movement of the bushes which would release the "clamping" force on the engine mount. This corrosion is best dealt with when you have the alternator in a vice.
Any corrosion on the surface between mounts and end of the bush might contribute to an increased clamping force but nothing more.
I would in your case just pry/lever it off. You can also give the alternator a hit via a wood bar.
 
@Joga @rotifer thank you for the advice!

The A2OC way has been surprisingly easy with a crowbar big enough. I’vd just squeezed a crowbar between alternator and a block, put cardboard for protection, and then pushed the crowbar towards the engine.

Alternator sits with a surprisingly close tolerance, and even millimeters of contact area between bushings and a mount have enough grip to hold the alternator in place. Big lever really helps a lot to keep moving the alternator out of its seat.

Lower bushing required a bit of fiddling. I put the curved side of a crowbar under the alternator body and pushed it outwards and up, so once the alternator is out, it did not fall down. It has been still a rather clean job.

Disconnecting as much air tubes as possible also helped a lot, as alternator is rather huge for the space available, and taking it out is tricky. I had to take off also the belt cover, fighting for mms of space upon extraction.

30A wire is hold by a nut under the rubber cap, I found it much easier to undo after the bushings extraction.

(Photo does not represent the real extraction, but gives an idea of the set-up)

IMG_4602.jpeg
 
This area was enough to hold alternator in the air. Incredible.

The extraction did not require extensive force, but a constantly applied one and keeping an eye on the progress.
 

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Hi,
Glad it all went well and according to plan. A coordinated and controlled job that helped to protect the other car parts from the heavy alternator when being remove in a small space.
:)
 
Last update to finish the thread: new alternator is in!

A job can be done solo, but much easier in 4 hands, to hold the alt in place while inserting the bolts, and not to bother fighting with a B+ wire. On a new alternator the connection was a bit more curved for a B+, and I had to take the wires out of the plastic guide on top the engine for the install.

And then it is a lot of ratcheting! New spacer bushings have to squeeze in.

Last step is LEGO. Careful with air intake tube, it is rather fragile in the corrugated part near the air flow sensor, as I found out.

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