Broken Front Spring

A2driver

Member
Hello I have had a noise obviously coming from the front spring (OS) so bought a new strut bearing but since having a look I can see the spring has broken.

It appears the strut might be be removed without disassembling the drive-shaft/hub off by loosening the split clamp at the back -is this the case as I couldn't get it to shift?

Any good places to get a std spring from?
 
I found this diagram off some VW and it looks like a similar design (in terms of how the strut mounts in the front hub)

2-1060-10871-l-mbWOZFFHRk5pFCDKAjFA.jpg
 
It appears the strut might be be removed without disassembling the drive-shaft/hub off by loosening the split clamp at the back -is this the case as I couldn't get it to shift?

Any good places to get a std spring from?

Yes, the strut can be removed but you need to wedge open the split clamp first. There is a proper tool to do the job but you can get away with a suitable chisel or large screwdriver to tap into the split.

In the UK, the only source for standard springs is Audi.
Spidan (do a search) springs are available in Europe and appear to be better quality than the originals. You could try importing some if your keen

PS. Like your check strap fitting guide - excellent work.

Cheers Spike
 
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If anyone wants springs or struts for a 1.6FSI then I have some that are available for a nominal contribution (I upgraded to FSD and weitecs). Welcome to collect in leeds for anyone who can use them.
 
They are made in Italy from dried pasta. Wrong kind of durum wheat apparently.
 
So are there any aftermarket springs that will work with the standard dampers...how do FSi springs dampers differ from 1.4 type?
 
Done -got spring from Audi. It was drivers side that needed replacing -would've done both but they only had one.
Bitch of a job! Very pesky.
 
cant believe it was five years ago I changed the OS spring. Passenger side is now clonking badly on speed-bumps so must've suffered the same fate. Looking back I wondered why I didn't swap out both but it was January (cold) and they only had one in stock.
 
At least it's passenger side, so brake fluid reservoir doesn't have to be shifted to gain access. Replace top bearing too while you're there.
 
Hi. Got a pair of correct Spidan springs from Germany delivered cheaper than Audi quoted for each unit...(would've used Audi, just THEY had to order them from Germany too)

QUESTION: does the drive shaft/hub nut need removing to allow the drive shaft to slide/have enough free play so the wishbone can swing down?
Dont want to jack up and then realise later this nut needs removing
 
Just replaced springs on both sides of my car. No need to undo the driveshaft on either side. Just remove the drop links and do the wedge thing. I have a LHD car, but I can't see why that would matter. It was a tighter fit on one of the sides, can't remember which one though.
 
'wedge thing'? Are you referring to a technique to spread the hub to remove the strut? Please share.
 
'wedge thing'? Are you referring to a technique to spread the hub to remove the strut? Please share.

Hi Steve,

Have a look at this tool: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351576506316
It's a pry socket. You can insert it into the gap in the knuckle with its long side vertical. You then rotate it by 90°, moving its long side to horizontal, thus spreading the knuckle and releasing its grip on the strut. It's a simple but highly effective tool.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Hi Steve,

Have a look at this tool: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351576506316
It's a pry socket. You can insert it into the gap in the knuckle with its long side vertical. You then rotate it by 90°, moving its long side to horizontal, thus spreading the knuckle and releasing its grip on the strut. It's a simple but highly effective tool.

Cheers,

Tom

I got a pair of these when I did my front struts. Absolute must IMHO. Access is limited to get the thing in and turned with a ratchet though.

Edit. And I didn't need to remove anything other than the strut after disconnecting the droplink.

Chris
 
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Hi Steve,

Have a look at this tool: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351576506316
It's a pry socket. You can insert it into the gap in the knuckle with its long side vertical. You then rotate it by 90°, moving its long side to horizontal, thus spreading the knuckle and releasing its grip on the strut. It's a simple but highly effective tool.

Cheers,

Tom

Thank you Tom. Certainly a preferable method to smacking it with a mallet and flat bladed screwdriver :) I'll give it a go. Still collecting the other parts from your definitive suspension thread at present bit the work should be done soon. Thanks again.
 
I ended up adapting a tool (which is usually the case) when attempting repairs. Used the end of a pin hammer cut down to size courtesy of an angle grinder.
 
A very straightforward Job... Almost a pleasant task . Used a small metal wedge.
Only fly in the ointment was the drop link threads were heavily corroded and the strut bearing fell apart.
Quicker to rebuild & regrease in the end than drive to local parts supplier.
 
I ended up adapting a tool (which is usually the case) when attempting repairs. Used the end of a pin hammer cut down to size courtesy of an angle grinder.


Very inventive and just the right shape and size.

Just one word of caution though, I have seen videos of what happens when you hit one hammer against another, it virtually EXPLODED.

I would assume that the pin hammer is not quite as hard as many other hammers and the angle grinding probably heated the metal and may have reduced the hardness, but please be careful.

Steve B
 
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