How to replace rear door micro switch

T

the grim reeper

A2OC Donor
Hear's how replaced my rear door microswitch/ door catch

1 to remove the door card as all the others three screws T25

picture.php


1 behind the tweeter grill

2 and three under pull handle
picture.php

picture.php


2nd (Manual rear windows only) you will need to remove window winder. you need to push the outer part up/away from the knob to reveal the screw, a small screw driver may help if you find it hard
picture.php


To remove door card there is at the bottom a little hole to get a finger in, which allows you to get a start on pulling the card off, once off don't forget to remove or unplug the tweeter if you have one
 
Once removed you can then set at removing all the T30 screws and 2 X Phillips screws, no need to remove speaker that can stay on, you will need to remove the cables from the inner panel.
picture.php

Picture shows with most of the screws removed apart from the 2 Phillips on the right of the panel, now once all are removed if you panel has not been of before there is a foam seal holding it in place (like all them screws aren't enough:eek:), put a slight bit of pull on the right hand side of the iiner panel and use a long screw driver to just cut through the foam untill the panel comes free
picture.php
 
Once that is removed you can set about removing the window channel 4 screws hold this in place T45
picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

Once you have removed them 4 you are nearly ready to remove this, you then need to pull the rubber seal from around the window frame, don't pull to hard as you can stretch it making it harder to put back on (when re-fitting you may want to use some soapy water in a spray bottle;))
picture.php
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vic
Once that is removed you only have to pull it to just past the window (you don't have to take it all off), you then need to unclip the wiring loom from the channel
picture.php

now you can take the window and frame out (you may need to remove the outer weather strip from the door it just pulls up but aain don't pull to hard as it can bend )
picture.php

Now you can finally get to the catch, 2 srews hold this in place S8(spline drive) or Multi torx 8, its got a number 8 on the screw head
picture.php

Remove the weather cover to reveal the catch (inside the door)
picture.php
 
Now you need to remove a plastic cover on the outside of the door (back of the handle), you do this by a screw T20
picture.php

This screw doesn't come out, it moves a slider on the inside to allow the cover to be removed, once screwed all the way, you can pull the rear of the handle out
picture.php

picture.php


Now you can release the cable to the catch

Now the catch is out you just need to swap the pull cable over and remove the plastic stopper on the new handle its normally red

picture.php


Now you can build it back up in reverse order:eek:;),

When putting the rear of the handle back in the pull part will stick out to start with but once you start to screw the T20 in it will click back into place;)

Cheers Phil
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtl
Excellent guide Phil
I've added it to the 'How To' guides so its easy to find in the future

Cheers Spike
 
well done Phil very good job I'm sure many people will benefit from your hard work. cheers mike
 
I did a guide the other year for the front door but not in as much detail or with as many pictures, so made up for it on this one . Hope it does help, it took of about 45 mins but i was taking my time taking photo's and it was a little different to the front door .

Cheers Phil
 
Hi Phil,

Thanks for this guide. Does the horizontal foam strip form part of the door's waterproofing? Do I need to go about replacing that foam strip, or will simply screwing the ally panel back into place do the trick on its own?

Cheers,

Tom
 
Window Frame positioning

the grim reeper said:
I did a guide the other year for the front door but not in as much detail or with as many pictures, so made up for it on this one . Hope it does help, it took of about 45 mins but i was taking my time taking photo's and it was a little different to the front door .

Cheers Phil
Click to expand...

Hi there,

Thanks for an excellent article - It gave me the confidence to changd my rear n/s door micro switch yesterday - I just hope the breaker's replacement part lasts after all the effort - about 3 hours.

If I may can I ask for some further advice: Having removed the window frame to gain access to the lock etc - the door (window) frame now appears to sit 3-4 mm too low, ie when viewed from the outside with the door closed - it doesn't look too good!

Before I take it all apart again to explore, is there some tolerance in the way the window frame attaches - ie up and down tolerance? If so you may wish to add this to your guide.

Another point, I ended up removing my door seal from around the bottom of the door - it unclipped easily and then I removed each of the clips which was a bit fiddly and relocated them in the trim before clipping back in place at on reassemby. I preferred this to the risk of stretching a 12-year old seal as I took it out from the top of the frame.

Simon
 
simond said:
Before I take it all apart again to explore, is there some tolerance in the way the window frame attaches - ie up and down tolerance?
Click to expand...

Yes, there's some room for play. Whenever I do this job, I carefully mark the position of the frame within the door before taking it out so that I get it perfectly positioned upon reassembly.

If that hasn't been done, then a bit of trial-and-improvement is needed...
The frame is held in place with 4 bolts. Properly loosen the lower 2 bolts and forget about them for a moment. Now, concentrating on just the upper 2 bolts, move the frame about a little and then tighten the 2 upper bolts. Close the door and see how you're doing. Repeat until you've got its height perfect. Now fully replace the rubber seal around the edge of the door.
Because the lower bolts are loose, you'll be able to make the frame pivot a little about the axis of the top 2 bolts. Push the lower part of the frame as far into the door as you can, causing the glass to lean towards the car. Now, when you close the door, the frame will be moved into the correct position. Now open the door and tighten the lower bolts, being careful not to move the frame at all.

As always, it's not easy to describe such processes without pictures, but I hope that helps.

Cheers,

Tom
 
To add to Tom's post what you could do is do what Tom has suggested but close the door and then just lift the frame up from inside till it sits right

Phil
 
Thanks to both Phil and Tom. The advice was most welcome and this morning, before work, stripped the door down again and it all now sits square and flush. Once I was inside the door I could see the previous markings from the screw heads, but I still needed to use a lever to get the tilt/twist angle correct before tightening etc.

Simon
 
I doing this yesterday with my left rear door.
I didn't remove the windows frame, the mechanism come out without any problems (just remove the door panels, cables, the catch multi torx 8 screws and then need to release the cable catch of the handle.
This save me a lot of time and adjustement at the end of the window frame and rubber.
Thanks for sharing and excellent guide Phil!
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtl
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top