How do i clean throttle body

audimad23

audimad23

Member
hi my audi a2 1.4 se has bin cutting when at junctions ect (Not all the time) i spoke to a merhanic and he said it could be the throttle body is dirty, blocked ect i was wondering if anyone knows how to clean the throttle body and what to use to clean it :confused: thanks
 
on the bar under "your notifications", there's a link called "search". Feeding it "throttle body" brings up a guide in a thread started by spike which was originally over on the German forum. It has lots of pictures.
Use acetone to clean the gunk off.

Bret
 
To save anyone else the painful clunking around in google translation, the best I have managed so far is below. Bret could you do us tea-drinkers a favour and do a proper translated PDF version for us?

Also is it true you can re-calibrate without VAGcom by running the engine a short while?.. I need to clean mine ASAP but have no access to the software.


Cheers,

VonB

German to English translation


1.4 16V throttle clean
of A2TDI
Required parts / tool:
- TORX essay / key size 25 - 7 Series Ratchet nut, etc. - 5 Allen - Possibly. small screwdriver - Pliers
- Brake cleaner or acetone - toothbrush and rags - or laptop with VAG-COM diagnostic tool
The guide:
1. Federklemmean Ansaugluftführungmit water pump pliers loosen and push away. TORX screw.
2. Screw clamp and remove the suction speak. Pull up and out of the rubber.
3. 4x Allen SW5lösen, Steckerabziehen and Drosselkl. . Remove
4. Dirty throttle from below.
5. Dirty throttle valve from above.
6. Butterfly valve with brake cleaner or acetone and a toothbrush to clean. Flap can open the other spring pressure.
7.Throttle in reverse order again follow purely bauen.Motor leave short run.
8.
Damper with VAG-COM teach motor control unit and select the following guarantee:
- - - -
no error in the memory engine temperature at least 5 ° C throttle in neutral (thus running short) Ignition on, engine stands
Going to default and enter as a group 060th Once confirmed by GO, the throttle is calibrated automatically. If the 4th Field on ADP.OK changes, switch off the ignition at least 30sec.
 
Required Tools

TX25
size 7mm socket, maybe small extension, ratchet
number 5 hex key
Small screwdriver
pliers / large
Brake cleaner / Acetone + Gloves

Time needed: first time at least 1 hour 30 mins, second time 30-45mins.

1. Remove the bonnet
2. On the left side from the front you will see the large black pipe going towards the rear of the car. It's around 40mm in diameter.
At the rear of the engine bay, you will see that it is clipped onto the next section, which itself is also held into place with a screw into the engine itself.
Undo the spring clip holding the two tubes together (it's a "push the tongues together" type and you may well want a *large* pair of pliers first time you do this!).
3. Remove the tx25 holding the tube holder to the engine.
4. Remove the pipe to the Throttle body itself
5. Remove the electrical connector into the throttle body; standard procedure, it's got a lock. Push the connector in to relieve tension and then release the lock. Don't break the lock.
6. There are 4 #5 hex bolts holding the body in place. Remove all. They all have captive washers. They are all around 60mm long.
7. Clean the removed throttle body (It's a tight fit to get it out!). Acetone and gentle agitation will remove the junk. Pushing the butterfly gently will move it.
8. Replacement is the reverse of removal.

Calibration requires that engine temperature is at least 5C. Go into Vagcom with the ignition on and the engine stationary. Go to the ECU, group 060, and click GO. When field 4 is "ADP.OK", switch the ignition off for at least 30s before restarting.

Alternative calibration: remove the battery for at least 5 minutes and then reconnect, preferably with a warm engine.

Bret
 
Just to follow up from this, I had planned to tackle the job of cleaning the throttle body myself (was even quite looking forward to it) but I had my car in the garage for a sensor to be changed and my mechanic friend had a few cancellations and 'got bored'(!) so he whipped it out for me and cleaned it for me free of charge!

He tells me he has to do quite a few of these especially on VAG cars but he says mine was the dirtest one he's ever seen! I suspect after 75,000 miles this was the first time it's ever been cleaned and it also probably didn't help matters that I lived with the problem for a month, coasting down hill-revs cutting out- jump starting again( same symptoms the OP talks about above).

The car is much better now with a healthy quiter idle, and no more cut-outs.Fantastic.
 
I eventually got around to cleaning out my throttle body on my 1.4 petrol today. Couldn't believe the build up of inside it seen as it's only done 34k! Seems like a different car to drive now! I will calibrate on vag com tomorrow :)

Cheers
Rob.
 
Mine was a bit dirty @80k.
It now won't run properly and is lighting up pretty much every warning on the dash. Ho hum! Battery now disconnected, will see if it behaves in a bit (at least until Tuesday when I can plug it in).
 
I forgot to add mine needed a reset but that was a all, a couple of minutes on vagcom.

I can't tell quite what difference it's made because the thermostat has decided to play up as well, once that's in I'll let you know :)
 
Phoned TPS to get a gasket in readiness for cleaning the throttle body after reading through previous threads, and they seemed a little flummoxed as to where the throttle body was on a 1.4 Tdi before someone suggested it visit combined with the EGR valve. Can anyone please confirm whether this is the case?
Mick
 
Diesels don't have a throttle body as unlike petrol cars, the engine does not work on a precisely controlled air/fuel ratio.

Cheers Spike
 
I was beginning to come to that assumption. The thing that is confusing is that post #3 in this thread mentions "1.4 tdi" in the translated instructions?
 
Reading all the above, and looking on ElsaWin, does the 1.6FSI have a throttle body, and if so can anyone shed some light on its location in ElsaWin or ETKA?
 
Sorry to open up a really old thread but just completed the procedure at 105k miles, wow what a mess the thing was. So all cleaned and looking perfect again including the part inside the inlet that was also gunked up (has a metal and rubber pipe leading into it).

So put the TB back together with a new gasket (3 were supplied in the pack from Audi even though it said 1 gasket on the pack for some reason? surely only one is required as that is all I installed?) and now the car runs like a bag of spanners, won't go above idle, hunts all over the place and the dash is lit up like Christmas, I have obviously missed something somewhere but wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction based on the symptoms?

Cheers
 
mrbroons said:
Sorry to open up a really old thread but just completed the procedure at 105k miles, wow what a mess the thing was. So all cleaned and looking perfect again including the part inside the inlet that was also gunked up (has a metal and rubber pipe leading into it).

So put the TB back together with a new gasket (3 were supplied in the pack from Audi even though it said 1 gasket on the pack for some reason? surely only one is required as that is all I installed?) and now the car runs like a bag of spanners, won't go above idle, hunts all over the place and the dash is lit up like Christmas, I have obviously missed something somewhere but wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction based on the symptoms?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Hi James,

Have you ran the throttle body adaption with VCDS?

Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery may also force an adaption.

Good luck.

Cheers

Rob


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry forgot to add that bit Rob, yes ran it as described but I don't think that I completed the swtich to basic mode bit, just 060 then go, leave until "OK" shown then leave for 30 secs then off for 30 secs and then restart. Also I'm really not clear on how many gaskets I should have used, it appeared to be one gasket but when realigning it on the bolts it split into 3 separate same shape gaskets, I checked the old one and it was definitely just one so put only one back on, was that wrong?
 
mrbroons said:
Sorry to open up a really old thread but just completed the procedure at 105k miles, wow what a mess the thing was. So all cleaned and looking perfect again including the part inside the inlet that was also gunked up (has a metal and rubber pipe leading into it).

So put the TB back together with a new gasket (3 were supplied in the pack from Audi even though it said 1 gasket on the pack for some reason? surely only one is required as that is all I installed?) and now the car runs like a bag of spanners, won't go above idle, hunts all over the place and the dash is lit up like Christmas, I have obviously missed something somewhere but wondered if anyone could point me in the right direction based on the symptoms?

Cheers
Click to expand...
I would also say check the throttle body alignment, VCDS calibration in other words. I only put one gasket on my 2001 AUA. Ran like a bag of spanners before I got the adaptation right. Are you sure you did the procedure right? Run the adaptation an listen to the throttle body. You can hear it moving when the adaptation is done.
Also check that you reconnected all the sensors properly, and didn't disturb any other wiring while working on the car.
 
Morning. Well changed nothing but went out this morning and it is running perfectly. Not sure what the problem was but I didn't change anything. Thanks very much for all the assistance now running beautifully. ;)
 
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