fuel filter

wpaul

Member
I am thinking of making a car service myself but Im not sure if its really required to change fuel filter. I suppose it has not been changed for a long time because a heat shield screw was so corroded that when I had touched it with a screwdriver it just fell to pieces.

What would the symptomps be of a dirty fuel filter?
Where do I get these heat shield screws that hold it in place from? are they available from dealer ? can I just buy something similiar ( what size etc.. ) ?

Thx for looking
 
When I recently when upto Mike Skiptons for a service he recomended that one year do oil and oil filter. And the alternate year do oil, oil filter, pollen filter, fuel filter.( I think I remembered everything lol)

But if you suspect that they have not been done for a while, I would personally do them this time round and you know you are in good shape.

Cheers

David
 
I've changed the fuel filter a couple of times on my wife's 1.4TDi. It's located on the passenger side and covered with a heat shield. Ensure you've got jack-stands in place - before venturing under the car. It's a fiddly job but easy enough.

As you'll already know, the shield can corrode purely due to its location. Your Audi main dealer can supply a replacement heat shield (if required) and the 10mm pressed caps (x3) that hold it in place. There's also a star-drive screw on the trim to remove. Once that's off you can see the fuel filter. It's held in place with a metal bracket/carrier, so you'll need a 10mm and 13mm socket to remove. Make sure you have a empty container to catch a little diesel you'll lose and cover the drive with cardboard to protect from spills.

With the carrier now removed the filter will drop slightly, but not much. There are in and out flow fuel and vacuum pipes. Before disconnecting any pipes - mark the corresponding pipes with coloured insulation tape. Trust me - it saves any problems when it comes to refitting. The rubber pipes are connected with plastic connectors. Press the connector and it should detach from the pipe. I think in total there are 3 or 4 pipes to disconnect. You'll lose a little diesel - but not much. With the fuel filter now disconnected - drain the fuel into a suitable container and indicate the contents. Your local recycling centre should accept it.

The new filter needs the rubber fuel lines transferred onto it. Note the location of the fuel lines before hauling anything off. Any fuel lines that look cracked or worn - then replace. With the fuel lines transferred, top up the fuel filter with fresh diesel. The tricky bit is to attach the plastic grommet onto the fill aperture. Use a pin hammer to gently tap it into place. It's finally secured with an R pin. Attach the rest of the fuel lines (you'll hear them click into place). With the fuel filter now connected to all the pipes, secure in the carrier, ensuring it sits high enough for the heat shield to cover it. Before installing the heat shield, start the car to ensure there's no leaks or weeping. If everything is as it should be - then install the heat shield. Job done.
 
Sorry not at hand. Go to main Audi dealer and get them to bring it up on ETKA display - so you can identify the part. From memory it's around the £20 mark. It will need to be ordered. The pressed caps are separate.
 
Spartacus, do you by any chance have a schematic picture of the fuel lines underneath? I just swapped the fuel filter, and it´s pretty easily done, just as you wrote. I was in a bit of a stress though and didn´t mark up the fuel pipes, so I now suspect that I´ve swapped two of them :-(
I built a catch tank of an ordinary PET-bottle to de-air the fuel system with some assistance of an ordinary vacuumcleaner, but it seems like I might be sucking fuel from the wrong pipe. I´m getting no constant fuel feed to the engine pump. Tomorrow lunch I´m getting back under to check the fuel-lines and do a little more thorough research, of how they´re supposed to be mounted. Since the pipes all have different lengths it seemed like a pretty easy thing to swap. How bad things sometimes turn out :p
So if any of you guys have any scheme or pictures of the fuel system for the 1.4 TDi, I´d be overwhelmed.
Cheers, now it´s time for a well deserved beer...

I've changed the fuel filter a couple of times on my wife's 1.4TDi. It's located on the passenger side and covered with a heat shield. Ensure you've got jack-stands in place - before venturing under the car. It's a fiddly job but easy enough.

As you'll already know, the shield can corrode purely due to its location. Your Audi main dealer can supply a replacement heat shield (if required) and the 10mm pressed caps (x3) that hold it in place. There's also a star-drive screw on the trim to remove. Once that's off you can see the fuel filter. It's held in place with a metal bracket/carrier, so you'll need a 10mm and 13mm socket to remove. Make sure you have a empty container to catch a little diesel you'll lose and cover the drive with cardboard to protect from spills.

With the carrier now removed the filter will drop slightly, but not much. There are in and out flow fuel and vacuum pipes. Before disconnecting any pipes - mark the corresponding pipes with coloured insulation tape. Trust me - it saves any problems when it comes to refitting. The rubber pipes are connected with plastic connectors. Press the connector and it should detach from the pipe. I think in total there are 3 or 4 pipes to disconnect. You'll lose a little diesel - but not much. With the fuel filter now disconnected - drain the fuel into a suitable container and indicate the contents. Your local recycling centre should accept it.

The new filter needs the rubber fuel lines transferred onto it. Note the location of the fuel lines before hauling anything off. Any fuel lines that look cracked or worn - then replace. With the fuel lines transferred, top up the fuel filter with fresh diesel. The tricky bit is to attach the plastic grommet onto the fill aperture. Use a pin hammer to gently tap it into place. It's finally secured with an R pin. Attach the rest of the fuel lines (you'll hear them click into place). With the fuel filter now connected to all the pipes, secure in the carrier, ensuring it sits high enough for the heat shield to cover it. Before installing the heat shield, start the car to ensure there's no leaks or weeping. If everything is as it should be - then install the heat shield. Job done.
 
Tps part numbers Oil filter S071115562c. Oil sump screw Sn90813202. fuel filter 8z0127435. Air filter 8z0129620. Pollen filter S6q0820367b
 
Hey Guys, I just found out what where the fault was located. On top of the metallic fuel filter >=2002 year model there is a check valve preventing the fuel to pass in the wrong direction. The check valve is fitted so it´s supposed to be sealed by an O-ring on the connector. When changing filter I carefully (with a plastic hammer) knocked the check valve over the O-ring and the connector, which led to small cracks on the check valve flange (all made of white phantastic plastic). So no fuel leak out...just excessive masses of air getting in to the filter.
Gah! Left the car to my Audi Service shop on sunday night with detailed instructions of what to do... and got it back today... Running smooth again.... Phu!
Almost feels like grabbing me another one of those beers...
 
i'm ordering new bosch sparks after a lovely newbie did a spark plugs list :) so was wondering which part numbers or brands etc would work for a 1.4 aua petrol? i'm new to this, online shows multiple parts for same car registration?? very confusing, varying slightly in length!? 140mm-163mm and the outer diameter changes from brand to brand? help please. (realised it's mostly the length of the inlets lol, so less drama needed)


RE: mentioned above PART NUMBERS and are those only for specific engine obviously which one?
 
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I have just changed my diesel fuel filter. It cost £11.66 online for a Bosch one up 2002 I believe, the all in one type. It went on OK and the old one was pleasingly dirty. I just lowered it, two 10mm bolts, pulled the pin on the top connector, moved the clips off the two smaller pipes and pulled the pipes off which were a bit stuck. The top connector(not sure of its official name) needed a good press down before I could get the pin in, I then reconnected the other two lines reusing the existing clips. I re-secured it to the base of the vehicle.
I lost less than an eggcup of fuel although plenty remained in the filter.
I did not have any shielding to remove as there was none. I also seem to be missing the rear nearside wheel arch liner.
 
I have just changed my diesel fuel filter. It cost £11.66 online for a Bosch one up 2002 I believe, the all in one type. It went on OK and the old one was pleasingly dirty. I just lowered it, two 10mm bolts, pulled the pin on the top connector, moved the clips off the two smaller pipes and pulled the pipes off which were a bit stuck. The top connector(not sure of its official name) needed a good press down before I could get the pin in, I then reconnected the other two lines reusing the existing clips. I re-secured it to the base of the vehicle.
I lost less than an eggcup of fuel although plenty remained in the filter.
I did not have any shielding to remove as there was none. I also seem to be missing the rear nearside wheel arch liner.
Hi Rod, I want to also replace my fuel filter. When you removed the fuel pipes, did lots of diesel come out or did you somehow clamp close the pipes so nothing came out?
 
I was concerned but nowt comes out!

Prime your new filter with FRESH diesel and enjoy your evening!
 
Hi Rod, I want to also replace my fuel filter. When you removed the fuel pipes, did lots of diesel come out or did you somehow clamp close the pipes so nothing came out?
The big fitting on the top with the pin is self sealing. This is why it needs to be properly replaced otherwise the car will not work. From the other two lines, less than an egg cup. I did not do any clamping.
 
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