4 wheel alignment in SW London?

dan_b

A2OC Donor
Can anyone recommend any garages who can reliably do a proper 4 wheel alignment/ geometry check on my car? It just doesn't feel "right" and I don't trust the 2-wheel "laser tracking" checks that most tyre fitters offer to understand it - I've got Koni FSDs and Weitecs, recently put on the Myele HD ARB droplinks (my old ones were shot) and I'm currently running 15" alloys - but to me the car isn't quite behaving right on the road.

Recommendations welcome.
 
Dan

If you fancy a trip out to Chesham my (work) neighbours have a good reputation in the race-prep and fast road (Ferrari/Aston/Porsche) community

They can be found at www.blackboots.co.uk

Had a few cars done there and they are very professional and I've been taking my car there for a few years before they were my neighbour

J
 
Quick tip - and it's something I've been reading up on - pay attention to the toe-in(!!).

I'll be going through this lot again tomorrow as I'll be making an appointment for Tuesday for a complete alignment of mine, including subframe, as it's all been messed with. Apparently toe-in makes a huge difference and the computers normally throw out 0 as "correct", with the result that the car feels floaty at speed.
quick quote:

The toe setting on a particular car becomes a tradeoff between the straight-line stability afforded by toe-in and the quick steering response promoted by toe-out. Nobody wants their street car to constantly wander over tar strips-the never-ending steering corrections required would drive anyone batty. But racers are willing to sacrifice a bit of stability on the straightaway for a sharper turn-in to the corners. So street cars are generally set up with toe-in, while race cars are often set up with toe-out.
Accurate numbers for DE A2s:

Sturz: -35' plusminus 20' (maximaler Unterschied der beiden Seiten 30')
Spur pro Rad: 4' plusminus 5'
Spurdifferenzwinkel bei 20°: 1°30' plusminus 20'

Sturz = toe-in
Spur = Camber

I can provide more numbers for different setups later.

Oh, and ask them if they have tool T40022 to make sure the subframe's in the right place. I has no clue what this looks like :)

(I'll also extend the above in a blog post in the near future)

- Bret
 
I use feltham tyres on faggs rd near heathrow, digital tracking fair price and mine always seem perfect after, they give you a read out to my work use them for tracking,
Tho I'm sure they said the rear of a2s can't be tracked?? He said it will never be out enought to notice atall unless damaged?
 
Not true. It's a single beam axle and as such is mounted to the body. So it's possible to alter both sides at the same time, but not one independent of the other.

- Bret
 
Bret

Can you post your recommended settings as I have my car in at Blackboots later today
After my 'meeting' with the pothole last week I thought I should get this done as my steering wheel position has moved at the 'dead-ahead'

Thanks in advance
J
 
Those are extent of the recommended settings that I've been made aware of... though I'd be very interested to hear of their opinions.

Here, summarized: (check the original suspension used in the handbook / sticker)
Front Axle, suspension types 1GA, G07 and G22 (so not for 1.2, S-Line):

Toe-in: -35' plusminus 20' (max difference between the sides 30')
camber per wheel: 4' plusminus 5'
toe in differential angle at 20°: 1°30' plusminus 20'

Sports suspension (1GL and G08):
Toe-in: -40' plusminus 20' (max difference between the sides 30')
camber per wheel: 4' plusminus 5'
toe-in differential angle at 20°: 1°30' plusminus 20'

HtH, please get back to us on its usefulness!

- Bret
 
Bret that's very useful thanks - I'll give the settings for the Sport suspension to whoever I end up using. Although my car was originally an SE, I'm running on the Weitec/FSDs at the front, and the OEM Sport springs at the back so for all intents and purposes it's a Sport ride height.

I need to re-centre my steering wheel before they do it though.
 
I'm thinking the re-centering is because either the settings or the subframe is off... mine is also seriously skew and I will ask the guys to tolerate me checking this next week.

- Bret
 
Here's my readings to dissect
They did say that the caster being out could be due to a bent wishbone, but that both sides were the same, so maybe not

J

IMG_1618.jpg
 
I need to re-centre my steering wheel before they do it though.

Hi Dan

Unless the steering wheel has been indexed on the spline in the past, the wheel alignment process should re-centre it.
With the airbag removed I think there are visible pop marks which show the correct position of the wheel. If you deviate from this, there is a chance of screwing up the steering angle sensor setting (may need zeroing with VagCom)

Cheers Spike

PS just spotted Bret's alignment settings may have mixed up camber and toe-in measurements.
 
Hi Dan

Unless the steering wheel has been indexed on the spline in the past, the wheel alignment process should re-centre it.
With the airbag removed I think there are visible pop marks which show the correct position of the wheel. If you deviate from this, there is a chance of screwing up the steering angle sensor setting (may need zeroing with VagCom)

Cheers Spike

PS just spotted Bret's alignment settings may have mixed up camber and toe-in measurements.

Alignment table now attached
 

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