One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

linelis

Member
Hello everybody,

I would like to get some help as I can't find solution for my problem. So, here is my story.

I have just bought AUDI A2 1.2tdi. It has 140000km on the dash. Everything works fine, BUT the car can not be started while gear lever is on STOP position, it can be started only on N. Now I will tell what steps I have already made for solving that problem.

--- Firstly, I checked hydraulic fluid level according to all instructions. It is ok.
--- Brake lamps are working fine when brake pedal pushed.
--- Hydraulic pump begins to work once I open the door and works for about 30s.
--- It can be made only 2-3 gear shifts (while engine is not running) and then pump starts again.
--- I made basic setting with no problems. Voltage from clutch sensor was about 0.6V, I adjusted it to about 1.9V. Then made other two steps, basic setting and creep point. (It had another one problem before basic settings. While on ECO mode engine shuts down and then putting the foot away from brake pedal it does not start, you need to start it on N with a key, but the basic setting "cured" that problem, but still does not starts on STOP)

So I have few questions and I think there are some people that could help me:

--- Is it possible that pressure accumulator would help (I already have new one, but haven't installed yet) ?
--- When car is parked on STOP and engine is shut off, should clutch be engaged? I mean, when trying to pull the car it won't move, because it will be on 1 gear. Am I right? Because when my car is left on STOP i can push it or pull it like it is on N. So my clutch is not engaged?
--- When doing basic setting you need to loosen gear actuator nut. But I do not know exactly when should I tighten it? After gear actuator makes some shift or when?
--- Would like to get some advises to "heal" my car that it would start on STOP. :)

Thank you if you read it :)
 
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The car should definately not move when in STOP. I do not think it engages first gear as it holds the car stationary on all angles. It does not roll forwards or backwards when in STOP.
On steep hills without engaging the handbrake the car will roll for about half a wheel turn and then hold.
The car engine should start on STOP but will stop very quickly after the brake is released.
I thought the system was designed so that the brake was also needed to start the car in Neutral?
Also does the brake indicator next to the gear lever work properly? Does it light up when the brake is pressed?

I have very little idea about the more technical aspects of these questions but hope this helps!

John
 
The car should definately not move when in STOP. I do not think it engages first gear as it holds the car stationary on all angles. It does not roll forwards or backwards when in STOP.
On steep hills without engaging the handbrake the car will roll for about half a wheel turn and then hold.
The car engine should start on STOP but will stop very quickly after the brake is released.
I thought the system was designed so that the brake was also needed to start the car in Neutral?
Also does the brake indicator next to the gear lever work properly? Does it light up when the brake is pressed?

I have very little idea about the more technical aspects of these questions but hope this helps!

John

So, one more thing that is wrong with my car that is rolling down the hill when on STOP :/ Brake indicator lights when brake is not pressed and goes off when brake is pressed. And when I do press the brake some kind of relay sound comes from somewhere near that indicator.
 
Hello, Calling from Sweden, so my english realy sux..
But i will give it a try..=)
When you put the level in stop the Gangsteller put in the 5 gear not the 1.
when you make the fist step adjustment in VAGCOM(when you adjust the "Dogbone", you must loosen the nut holding the dogbone and then it should center it self
and then you tightens the nut.
it should not be ANY play in the linkage, if you have some play in the "Dogbone" you need to replace it,

The car doesent start on STOP because it will not engage fifth gear for some reason.
and the Voltage from clutch sensor should be 1,85V, but 1,82V is the perfect number
the accumulator is probably bad to, 2-3 is not good, you should have a minimum of 3 if it should work properly, if you hav 2-3 then you probably have hard downshifting from gear 3 to 2 and 2-1..?, that is beacuse you loose to mutch hydraulik pressure when the gansteller must make several gear shift in a short of time.
If you have internal leakage, you can change the hydraulik oil and add 2-3% "Omega 917" then your internal leakage will stop, 90% chance, after you have drive the car about 5 hours, bleed out the hydraulik clutch, so the Omega 917 can do its thing, this is because the clutch hydraulik doesent get the new oil if you dont.
and again, sorry for my bad english.....
Dogge.

Untitled.jpg

Do you mean that nut that is in the red circle? So I loosen the nut and the "gangsteller" makes that centering by itself" and then tighten? :) As I said I made 1,9V, but I don't think that diference between 1,82 and 1,9 is verry big to cause that failure. What do you think? And I do not feel anything bad when driving, all "shift up" and "shift down" seems normal.

You said: "If you have internal leakage, you can change the hydraulik oil and add 2-3% "Omega 917" then your internal leakage will stop, 90% chance, after you have drive the car about 5 hours, bleed out the hydraulik clutch, so the Omega 917 can do its thing, this is because the clutch hydraulik doesent get the new oil if you dont"

But I didin't get it clearly. You mean to change hydraulic oil + 2-3% Omega 917 for leakage sealing or what?

Thanks
 
There is deffinately a click when the brake is pressed and released.
My handbrake did not work for a while but the car held well on slopes when the gear lever was set to STOP.
 
As I see, I will have to do basic settings again. But when I did it there were no errors or faults and I thought that I did everything correctly.

Also I am thinking why it could not shift to the fifth... if it shifts to fifth gear ok when driving?

I will repeat adjustments one more time. We will see if it helps :) Thanks.

Maybe someone have another opinion?
 
the must common problem with the issue that it wont start in park is break light switch, gearshift micro switches, or need dogbone adjustment with total basic settings, the break switch is rely cheap and you should change it only to prevent future problems, the breakswitch have a total of 3 functions in it, its can´d of complex regarding to a normal switch.

do you have the adjustment plan?, can i look at it to see if something maby is not correct, you will only need to hit the break pedal wrong one time and the adjustment is toasted.
i have seen several adjustment plans out there and several of them is not precise and easy to misunderstand.

You mean that brake switch has few micro-switches inside? For example: onse micro-switch for brake lamps, one for STARt/STOP etc? So if my lamps are lightining when brake is pressed it doesn't mean that the switch is fully working?

My adjustement plan is according to http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)
I followed these instructions last time. But as I told you I didn't know when exactly I need to tighten that dogbone nut, so I just tightened it accidentely.
 
I replied but my post didint appear. So will reapeat it.

I followed instructions from ross-tech website:

Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation

[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Block 002
[Go!]
Remove connector from hydraulic unit.
Check field 2, specification is 1.8...2.0 V.
If the specification is not reached, adjust the Clutch Travel Sender (G162).
Re-attach connector to hydraulic unit.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Cycle ignition OFF/ON.
[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Fault Codes - 08]
[Clear Codes - 05]
[Done, Go Back]


Gear Actuator Adaptation

[Basic Setting - 04]
Block 014
[Go!]
1st field should change from WAIT to ADJUST.
Loosen the gear actuator nut and tighten it with zero-potential.
Switch selector lever in E or D and back to Tiptronic Mode.
1st field should show WAIT now, transmission now does some shifts, you can monitor them in field 2 (Range: 0...28).
1st field should change from WAIT to (-), pull the selector lever to Minus and hold it for 5 seconds.
1st field should show STOP now, put the selector lever in position STOP and wait 5 seconds.
1st field should show KickDown now, floor the accelerator pedal completely (to kick down) and wait 5 seconds.
1st field should show N now, put the selector lever in position N.
1st field should show StartMot now, start the engine and let it idle 15 seconds.
1st field should change from SEARCHNG to IGN.OFF, put the selector lever in Position STOP.
Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds.

In case there is an Error during the Basic Setting, the Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) will show RTFM! followed by a Number which describes the Reason why it failed.

7 = Potentiometer 2 for Gear Recognition (G240)
Check Switches and Wiring/Connectors using Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) and Wiring Diagram.
8 = Potentiometer 1 for Gear Recognition (G239)
Check Switches and Wiring/Connectors using Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) and Wiring Diagram.
9 = Reverse Light Switch (F4)
Check Switches and Wiring/Connectors using Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) and Wiring Diagram.
10 = Potentiometer Values fluctuating during Measurement
Check the corresponding Potentiometers in Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 015 to 018
Check Fault Codes (repair if necessary) and Perform Basic Setting again
11 = Potentiometer Values
Check the corresponding Potentiometers in Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 015 to 018
Check Fault Codes (repair if necessary) and Perform Basic Setting again
12 = Gear Actuator incorrectly adjusted or measured values out of specification.
Potentiometer, Valves and Selector Finger at the Ball Heads for correct assembly and seating
Perform Basic Setting again after adjusting the Gear Actuator


Creep Point Adaptation

[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Block 025
[Go!]
Start the engine, engage the handbrake and press the foot brake.
Put the selector lever in position E or D.
You can determine the number of creep points left in field 3. It should start at 5 and count down to 0.
Release the brake pedal for at least 3 seconds, press the brake pedal again and hold it for at least 3 seconds.
Repeat the last step until field 3 shows 0.
If the specified value in field 3 is not reached, check fault codes and perform basic setting again.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

As I told you I didint know when exactly to tighten dogbone nut so I did it accidently. There were no errors. I did it with VAG cable.

Regarding the brakeswitch, you mean that there are few micro-switches inside it? For example one for brake lamps, one for START/STOP and etc? So if my brake lamps are working it doesnt mean that the switch is good?
 
Thanks doggydoggen !

It is verry useful :) I will do an adjustment and follow your advises during this week. Will let you know if it helped. Thank you once again.
 
In the S position, the car should be in 1st gear. Pressing the brake pedal also opens the clutch when stationary, hence the requirement to press the brake pedal when starting in S. In the N position, there is no need to press the brake pedal, since you are already in neutral.

To check whether the brake switch is functioning, check Measuring Block 4, second field. The last digit should read 1 when the brake pedal is pressed, 0 when not.

RAB
 
In the S position, the car should be in 1st gear. Pressing the brake pedal also opens the clutch when stationary, hence the requirement to press the brake pedal when starting in S. In the N position, there is no need to press the brake pedal, since you are already in neutral.

To check whether the brake switch is functioning, check Measuring Block 4, second field. The last digit should read 1 when the brake pedal is pressed, 0 when not.

RAB

Will check. Thanks.
 
An UPDATE:

Finally after some cold weather I made everything that we discussed before. I made basic settings guiding all the instructions noted above. Car began to change gears more smoothly and softly. Also the start acceleration is faster than before (clutch is released quicker). Also I changed pressure accumulator to new one. BUT there is big BUT: car still won't start on position STOP!!! Break switch is working, I have tested it with vag. Another thing that I have noticed that when trying to start car on position STOP, plug heating indicator only flashes once and goes off, than after putting selctor to N, plug heating indicator lights on and goes off after several seconds (as it should be) and than I can start the motor. It seems that when I turn on the ignition on the STOP position car "can see" something that I can't :)) and do not let to turn over the starter motor and also plug heating and etc. And when I set to N car "doen't care" about anything and lets to start :)

Another thing that probably is related to not starting on STOP is that my car on STOP is free to ride. I mean there is no gear on position STOP because I can pull or push it easily.

I do not know what else to try! I do not want to change everything to find that issue...

Any thoughts? please... :)
 
Why posts from another member disapeared????

It looks like I am talking with myself on my own thread!!!???
 
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I had this problem where, in the S position, the gearbox was in neutral, not in first. It was after my local Audi agent had changed the clutch! They had never seen a 1.2Tdi before! I had to go to France immediately after so to park the car in gear on the ferry, I had to select first and turn the ignition off, which makes it impossible to remove the key, and then lock the car with a second key! I'm not sure how they did it but I easily cured it with a basic setting.

Perhaps the micro switch for the S position is not working, so that the system does not 'know' where the gear stick is. If there is anything amiss, the gearbox controller will prevent an engine start. It could also be caused by a worn guide sleeve.

RAB
 
Does the engine stop in the S position? If so, the microswitch is probably OK.

Try another basic setting. Basic settings do not always work first (or second...) time! Follow it to the letter and don't miss the loosening and re-tightening of the linkage.

RAB
 
It is interesting that when I put selector on STOP, when engine is running, car nows that it became on STOP and shutts down the engine, so I think that micro switch is working... My car has milleage of 140000km, so I think it is not enough to worn guide sleeve? And what is the most interesting that not looking to that problem car works perfect regarding gearbox. It would be interseting to know if the gear on STOP, in my car, is neutral or it is first only with clutch disabled?

About the ferry, couldn't you use handbrake? Or it is necessary to use gear? I have never been on ferry with car... :)
 
I repeated basic setting for few times... I adjusted the nutt in the middle of it's travel. No errors. Everything was correct. I can not imagine what else I should do during basic setting. Everything is described verry clearly on the ross-tech page. And I followed every step carefuly. Could it be the problem related with some kind of starter motor controler? Ah, remembered that there is no gear on STOP, so I gues the answer is not to the last question. :)
 
The mileage is not the only indication. The basic setting should have been done every 30,000km during that period. Look on the German website for other possible causes. Here is one:

http://www.a2-freun.de/forum/showthread.php?t=44604

Search for "Start nur noch in N-Stellung", "Startet nicht in Stop". Use Google translator if necessary.

Another possible cause is a failing clutch actuator.

Leaving the car in gear on a ferry is a requirement.

RAB
 
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