RS4 Refurb using Wurth Rattle Cans

I thought it about time for me to contribute to this forum; what better way than a good old alloy refurb?

First, I obtained a single wheel from a very kind gent via this site - as we use the car everyday, have a 'spare' allows me to rotate the refurb process without putting the car out of action.

Kit Wise:

BD workmate with cunningly positioned oil heater (close radiator type) underneath to provide micro-heating enviro.
Dremel (not necessary, small and very small file would easily suffice).
Wooden sanding block ( soft/wooden corner a must for working the wheel contours)
Wet/Dry: 2000, 600, 400, 250
Chemical metal (other stuff is available)
Oven Pride (the dogs' for cleaning up the brake dust stained lacquer)
Surgical gloves (loads of them)
Cheap paint brush
Washing up liquid
Nail polish remover (post wash, pre-paint prep/clean)
Etch primer (for exposed alloy after sanding process)
Wurth primer.
Wurth alloy match top coat.
Wurth lacquer.
Clip on can trigger (a must IMO, much better 'flow' at wrist)
Duel filter mask (better than nothing & very effective TBH)




Wheel 01

Initial task was to clean the grotty mess and get down to check all the gouges and scrapes. Local garage, awesome, removed the rubber free of charge; I was thinking of doing this with the tyre in place. Although it's nice to work with just the alloy, for the next wheel I'll just pop the bead off I think.

Below are a few images showing the degree of dent-age & scrape-age.






So, using an old paint brush I got stuck in with the Oven-Pride - definitely wear old (long-sleeve) cloths and protective eye-ware (for the entire refurb process actually, nothing more valuable than ur eyes...H&S talk now over). The overpride cleansing revealed a hidden secret! .......the wheel had indeed been refurbed before as can be seen in the images below. Not a huge worry, but the seller did not mention this fact (might have been unaware to be fair as it was difficult to tell....however on getting it home I did suspect it due to the 'chipping' of the paint at the rash sites).
All that was require was to take the paint down to the grey powder coating. The whole wheel was not powder coated, and you can see the top coat over-spray into the inside alloy surface (images below).

Wheels Post Ovenpride Clean




.......reached limit, hold on....

...........



Check out the over spray on the inside surface in the last image above.

Next step was to remove the deep dirt within the rash-sites themselves. For this, the dremel was both quick and perfect - just think like a dentist for this bit; alongside the denistry I was constantly sanding back the topcoat to get back to the grey.

The image below (albeit at bit out of focus) show the rash cleaning, and grey power-coat exposed.




Once I was happy that all the sites were clean, I cleaned again with industrial tissue and nail varnish remover before applying the chemical metal filler.
The following phots show the before and after filler application and block work......





and after..






With all the entire surface of the wheel blocked down from 600 to 2000, I applied Halfords Etch to the exposed alloy where I had 'burned' through during the sanding. Note; I did not use etch primer over the entire surface, just to the exposed alloy sections. I then rubbed the over spray back using dry 2000 and cleaned once again with nail varnish remover.

I'll not post up an image of the etch phase, unless you folks really want to see it - masking wise for this phase was 'soft'; using more industrial tissue to limit overage/overspray...dead easy.

Then rubbed back again, not much, just to blend the etch into the grey powder coat. Then applied the first layer of Wurth primer.

......this is currently drying in the garage, I'll update over the weekend.

Cheers all.

Ok, the following pictures show the finished wheel. I'm 75 to 85% happy with it; there have been a couple of problems which have been caused by creating too much heat under the wheel (mobile oil radiator). As the silver was going on it was actually drying off a bit before landing on the prep'd surface, this cause the flake to 'sit up' and feel rough (bit like over-spray) - I had to sand back a bit (2000 wet n dry). I made the exact same mistake with the clear-coat too, even with the heat turned right down. So, more sanding back until smooth.
Before re-applying the clear-coat I relocated the heat to the other end of the room - worked a treat. Applied another couple of coats and this sorted it. There are a couple of spots that are frustrating for me, such as where the can was too close and there's just a smidgen of 'grey-out' within the clear-coat but when it's all gone rock hard I'll be cutting these bits back with a good paste.

To top tips are:
1) Don't over-heat environment.
2) Keep the can at least 7 + inches away from surface.
3) Be confident but don't pause through spray swing.

fantastic mate, if you ever fancy a go at refurbing a set of A2 15's let me know

Nice one Urban, thanks. Let me get the garden fence sorted, then I'll give you a shout...I should have the technique fully nailed by then.

Mini -update; gave the wheel a very gentle cut using polishing paste; granted I need to wait at least a week for the clear coat to harden properly but it made a huge improvement. Looking forward to final cut next week. I hope to re-fit tyre on Thursday then post an 'on car' quickie but current impressions suggest that the Wurth silver is a blooming good match for '05 audi wheels.

R

Richardu said:

Nice one Urban, thanks. Let me get the garden fence sorted, then I'll give you a shout...I should have the technique fully nailed by then.

Mini -update; gave the wheel a very gentle cut using polishing paste; granted I need to wait at least a week for the clear coat to harden properly but it made a huge improvement. Looking forward to final cut next week. I hope to re-fit tyre on Thursday then post an 'on car' quickie but current impressions suggest that the Wurth silver is a blooming good match for '05 audi wheels.

R

Click to expand...

great stuff, look forward to some more pics of your work loving the attention detail, you should put it into the projects section as its good info

Aye Up folks,

Little more FB for those about/considering doing this (go for it, great fun). Ok, it's all about the light and checking your work - more lessons for me. After about the 10 clear coat, 2k rub back and polish it got it out in the sunshine - up until today I been using my mega powerful XML mountain bike lamps to illuminate the wheel, thought I hadn't missed a thing......but.

1) On very close inspection I noticed filler pin-prick marks, we are talking micro size and you have to hold your eye virtually to the rim at the right angle to catch it.....but it's there and I know about it....no biggy however, like I said you simply can't see it otherwise. What I should have done was to use a build-primer, over the Wurth primer (perhaps) then rubbed it all back and re-checked outside. Saying that, I wanted to keep the 'volume of paint' applied to the wheel at a min.

2) There is on single dot, again the size of a pin prick, of etch primer that I missed on the final 2k rub down before clear coating - remember I burned through a patch I had discovered needed taking back so applied a quick squirt of etch....beware of this as the etch totally burns into the base primer.....bit of no-brainer when I look back.

3) PLEASE NOTE: Bit of a shocker this On collecting from the garage who refitted the tyre I notice a black dot that looked like a chip .......I screamed in side! Fear not, it was just soap they'd used as lube....phew. However, when I got home and went to wipe the soap of it had actually burned into the Wurth clear coat.....just like a solvent would...don't panic, don't panic the voice in my head went A little bit of T-cut sorted it out but I was very surprised at this, the clear coat was about 4 days old....I know, 2weeks to go hard.

Anyway, it all turned out well and once fitted to my bus it looks the dogs....see below.




It was really sunny and I struggled to get contrast - side on image doesn't do it any justice.

ALLOY No2

This time round, I have decided to keep the rubber on On close inspection of the rim edge there are no indentations into the circumference. So I began taping the wheel using sections of masking tape about an inch or so long to slip down behind the rim and tyre. This procedure is dead easy apart from when you get to one of the many (on my tyre) tiny rubber 'needles' left from the moulding - they prevent the tape slipping right down. So, it was a case of using a pair of tweezers and a craft knife - sorted.

Have to sing the praise of Ovenpride ...again folks. After initial engine degreaser the oven pride worked so well that I don't think I need to respray the entire wheel...a massive surprise tbh. The rash on this wheel occupies mainly the rim - so a blend in might work. I was going to do a side-by-side of original and Wurth silver - a very good match (I know I keep saying that) ....perhaps in the morning.

Also,I may have been wrong about the 1st alloy being refurbed as this wheel has exactly the same primer but it's in a much worse state - the alloy has severely oxidized and I'm going to need a wire brush drill session to prep this one...see below phots of the inner rim state, rash and post ovenpride shine







I'll probably not post any more updates until the entire set are finished/fitted unless folks want specific images - prob be a month now until I'm done as the fencing materials arrive on Monday and I have a holiday (to get in the way of fettling) to enjoy I hope to give the car a clay session, then a good 'Megging' followed by a wax on, wax off sesh.

Cheers,

Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with this Forum! It has been most enlightening! I have a set of 9-spoke alloys ready to fit. One of the wheels needs some attention where an external balancing weight has caused some corrosion. Your guide will prove very useful ... thanks!

David

No probs, it's always nice to give something back.

David: I currently working on the inner rim of alloy No2 and like you I have found old balancing sites esp prone to oxidation that sub'y has progressed.
This morning, I purchased as stubby wire brush (drill attachment) to compliment the larger one I have - both of them are brills for attacking the inner surface that itself doesn't really need a showroom finish.

I suppose I should provide a cost est.

Wurth primer, silver and clear coat - best part of £50
Wet n dry - £15
Drill bits, extra dremel stuff (bit OTT TBH) £20
Workmate (fleabay) £5 (result )

I est. by the time I'm finished it'll be close to £100 - but I'm sure I'll have materials left over which of course will go as freebies to anyone who might consume it.
Cheers.

Looks excellent

Richardu said:

Aye Up folks,

Little more FB for those about/considering doing this (go for it, great fun). Ok, it's all about the light and checking your work - more lessons for me. After about the 10 clear coat, 2k rub back and polish it got it out in the sunshine - up until today I been using my mega powerful XML mountain bike lamps to illuminate the wheel, thought I hadn't missed a thing......but.

1) On very close inspection I noticed filler pin-prick marks, we are talking micro size and you have to hold your eye virtually to the rim at the right angle to catch it.....but it's there and I know about it....no biggy however, like I said you simply can't see it otherwise. What I should have done was to use a build-primer, over the Wurth primer (perhaps) then rubbed it all back and re-checked outside. Saying that, I wanted to keep the 'volume of paint' applied to the wheel at a min.

2) There is on single dot, again the size of a pin prick, of etch primer that I missed on the final 2k rub down before clear coating - remember I burned through a patch I had discovered needed taking back so applied a quick squirt of etch....beware of this as the etch totally burns into the base primer.....bit of no-brainer when I look back.

3) PLEASE NOTE: Bit of a shocker this On collecting from the garage who refitted the tyre I notice a black dot that looked like a chip .......I screamed in side! Fear not, it was just soap they'd used as lube....phew. However, when I got home and went to wipe the soap of it had actually burned into the Wurth clear coat.....just like a solvent would...don't panic, don't panic the voice in my head went A little bit of T-cut sorted it out but I was very surprised at this, the clear coat was about 4 days old....I know, 2weeks to go hard.

Anyway, it all turned out well and once fitted to my bus it looks the dogs....see below.
View attachment 15544

View attachment 15545

It was really sunny and I struggled to get contrast - side on image doesn't do it any justice.

Click to expand...

Looks excellent

Not sure if it applies here but I've seen body shops use a contrasting 'mist' coat after priming as it really highlights the slightest imperfection during the rub down process.

I'd be very happy with the finish you achieved by the way.

Cheers Spike

Excellent results!

I notice the tyre is 225/45/17. Surely this must rub on full lock unless spacers are used...?

Cheers,

Tom

Spike, yes I have picked some brains about this exact issue/method - I think a darker colour does the trick, so perhaps a quick etch primer, then the lighter Wurth stuff followed by a mist of cheap matt gray - rub it all back, repeat?
Timmus - I've not yet driven it, the concrete fence project has taken over my life atm..but funny you've eyeballed that as 'something' has been bugging me ever since I fitted that tyre ...."just doesn't look as good as before//looks a bit fat//looks a bit old" if you catch my drift. I'll bung it on the rear, finish the refurb then fit new boots on the front.

Cheers folks.

PS: pictures of my garden fence to follow

Hi All,

I've made 1 mistake and had 1 accident - feel the need to let you all know so you don'f experience the angst and torment I'm currently experiencing.

1) On second wheel I thought it would make sense to strip right back to the metal, so I found a product that claimed it could strip 15 layers of paint! WOW......... load of bolx Huge mistake as it did a half ass job of removing the paint, whilst turning the hard bake primer/powder coat to soft layer that I had to rub right back....the entire wheel which has taken me weeks to achieve due to work, erecting a garden fence and going on hols.







2) This is by far the worst, putting the last layer of clearcoat today, and looking very nice and shiny (you know, that deep clearcoat watery shine) I went and bumped the bottom of the can on one of the spiders.



FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've now got to carefully take the clear coat back, soft mask, maybe a very thin bit of filler, more silver then clearcoat, dry then blend; all of which costs time....gutted

fence looks fantastic richard, im sure this wheel will look just as good as the last one when you have worked your magic on it.

Hi All,

Just wanted to add another tip...that I've read about and used to great success; softmasking.

After the shock of catching the final layer of clearcoat with the longer can (be aware of everything you do, esp changes to established protocol) I allowed the wheel to dry in the warm (not hot mind) for 3 days. I read online it takes a couple of weeks to harden right off but this was enough for me to sand back to the Wurth silver with 2k paper.

So, soft masking (new to me but loads on the web);

Instead of laying tape directly, tape one end down then roll it back over itself to form a curve...apply at the periphery of the job/area. So when you spray, the over spray does not form an obvious line. The images below show the method (I left one bit of soft mask in place) and results - the results were heaps better than I expected with metallic paint.









The 3rd image just shows where the new silver meets the old clear coat - this was very hard to capture, and even before the final clearcoat you would be hard pushed to notice once fitted.

Last one shows the final 4 or 5 layers of clear. All that's needed is a going over with Megs next week, or so after the next car cleaning session.

So unless I make yet another (new) mistake that's about it...two more to go before I put her up for sale (oops, wrong forum)

Very Nice work ...