Genuine VAG Seat Heating Retro Fit

ecoangel

Well-Known Member
There are plenty of other threads on here for seat heating, but hopefully this will clear up a few mysteries - if nothing else I think I'll order from new if I ever get the chance to buy a car that way in the future!

That's rather unlikely so this is about retro fitting Seat heating to an A2 with existing leather (Cream Sports Seats with Lumbar control).

PART 1:


A. To fit or not to fit?

Many rumours persist about Audi having built all the leather seats with seat heaters fitted but cables cut off for (mostly UK) markets that didn't want warm backsides in a mild winter!

I have searched far and wide and it seems to be only the replacement leather covers that come with heating attached not the originals if not specified. Certainly none fitted to my seats.

Also the Seat heater elements are not available for Leather seats because they are built in to new covers and differ in design from the regular VAG seat heaters which are wire type. the after market Carbon seat heaters are closer to the original Audi leather versions.

So you are left with a choice of:


(i) Buy all new seat covers - V. EXPENSIVE!
(ii) Buy After Market seat heaters - as detailed elsewhere
(iii) Buy VAG seat heaters and retro -fit.

I went down the latter route - not the cheapest but I hope it will prove the best matched system.

B. Which VAG parts to use?

Some have looked into Mk1 Audi TT Seats (non Recaro Pole Positions - nice though those are!).

The 8NO reference doesn't seem to be available from Audi anymore.

The next best thing is the 2004/2006 VW Golf Mk4/ Passat and Seat Leon This gives you 1J0 963 555B and 1J0 963 557C Seat Heater element packages.

Costs have risen since the earliest threads - 4 elements for two front seats is now the best part of £330 RRP !

However, Pete at VW Teesside will send a set to you for around £170 incl shipping UK.

C. What else do I need?

Well having installed these with Hog Rings in the pleats you'll discover that the seat back element needs connecting to the base element and both ends are MALE and rather lacking in the cable department!

You will need the rear seat heating harness - VAG Part number 3BO 971 306B - this will set you back another £25 a pair from aforementioned supplier but that's still cheaper than from VW/Audi.

Then there is the illusive heater controls - Some have tried to get the built in Air Con units on ebay but I have never seen one in 13 years of A2 ownership!

The alternative is to use aftermarket switch gear - again much cheaper than VAG, However if you are careful you can pick up Audi A8 Seat heater switches ( 8DO 963 563D or the later 4DO 963 563D. NB: These look identical but the later ones have an extra spade terminal on the rear (instead of circular plastic spigot of 8DO versions) so make sure your loom has the right sockets to accept them! Original Heated Seat A2's had 8DO's fitted.

So where to put these switches?

You need the small cubby hole / dashboard unit. Yes it is available to order from Audi - again not cheap at £41.02 ! I picked on up today from Nottingham Audi.

First gently remove the outer cover of both the switch and the cubby fascia. Then slot in the switches either side before replacing the cubby cover. This allows the rotating barrel of the switch to protrude out of the unit whilst allowing the illumination to shine through the correct slot above the dial.


I'll let you know more soon!

Meanwhile enjoy the pics!

Lukas

www.lukafoto.com

IMG_3208.jpgIMG_3210.jpgIMG_3209.jpgIMG_3212.jpg
 
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I was lucky to see on Ebay an air-con unit with those heater controls either side ... £23, sent. I want to re-build my standard leather seats to fit true lumbar support. I already have heating elements fitted, but they are not "Audi/VW" I might buy those true elements that you have informed us of ... Thanks! Now this is what I would like to ask of you .... I wonder if you could take a series of photos as your project progresses? They would prove so useful to me when I attempt to re-construct my seats, with the correct elements and the lumbar support.

David
 
Alternatives

Vielen Dank terrywindy1

The 8ZO covers from Audi dealer here said they were specific to the cloth seats / Alcantara models but yes no doubt very similar to the VAG ones I have now fitted but almost twice the price!

Nice find on the AirCon unit but again the misses prefers the £41 instead of Euro270 Plus postage s/h version!
 
Struggling today with wiring looms and fuse boxes!

More pics here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wwby90v87vxoict/AABtBtJQxIehyUNz9Mp9b2z7a/SitzheizungKabelFOTO

Missus wants car back ASAP - went to local VW dealer and they have stopped selling spares! Tried 7 other electrical shops/autofactors and none had the VW type fuse connectors required.

Looks more common in Germany: http://www.passatplus.de/umbauteile/stecker/stecker3.htm

Current issue is how to fit new fuses into main fuse box - empty space at 13 (large fuse 15A) is factory location.

Then get switched live - Audi wiring diagrams suggest Blue and Black wire from Ignition switch - how to piggyback via a 7.5A fuse?

Finally there's a grey wire to fit into terminal 5 of the lighting controller.

Same goes for the Lumbar wiring - I have 3 wires - Red/White (live), Brown (earth) and Brown/Blue (switch live?).

Cheers
 
Struggling today with wiring looms and fuse boxes!

More pics here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wwby90v87vxoict/AABtBtJQxIehyUNz9Mp9b2z7a/SitzheizungKabelFOTO

Missus wants car back ASAP - went to local VW dealer and they have stopped selling spares! Tried 7 other electrical shops/autofactors and none had the VW type fuse connectors required.

Looks more common in Germany: http://www.passatplus.de/umbauteile/stecker/stecker3.htm

Current issue is how to fit new fuses into main fuse box - empty space at 13 (large fuse 15A) is factory location.

Then get switched live - Audi wiring diagrams suggest Blue and Black wire from Ignition switch - how to piggyback via a 7.5A fuse?

Finally there's a grey wire to fit into terminal 5 of the lighting controller.

Same goes for the Lumbar wiring - I have 3 wires - Red/White (live), Brown (earth) and Brown/Blue (switch live?).

Cheers

Hi,

the fuse box is like the other connectors where there is a piece that needs to be slid across to release the terminals. It doesn't move much but without doing so you won't get any wires in or out. It also doesn't move if the fuses are present. Take a good colour photo of the fuses first before removing them! That makes it much easier when putting them all back. The locking slider is at the back so you will need to remove the fixing nuts to gain better access.

The main power junctions are in the loom by the driver side lower A pillar (in front of the lower door hinge). You will find the relevant live connection there.

DSC03173.jpg

The main earth junctions are in the loom on the passenger side although its probably easier to attach the earthing bolt directly.

DSC03179.jpg


My lumbar wiring only has two wires. The seats are supplied with live and earth with red/black and brown wires. As lumbar was a later edition to the car's design, the fuse is in an "add on" carrier in the passenger side lower A pillar connector block rather than the main fuse box.

DSC03161.jpg DSC03165.jpg


The main illumination junction is in the loom running down behind the centre console (from memory). Its not easy to get to so unless you have the dash out and all the wiring apart so its probably easier to find another point such as the feed on the light switch.

DSC03175.jpg


Here are some notes I made after the fact. I haven't repeated this so I can't vouch for their accuracy, but it may help:
Notes are for RHD so swap right with left for LHD.


Seat lumbar adjustment
===============

Fuse located left side front door pillar.

Fuse red wire to upper red junction right side front door pillar loom. Positive connection (30a)

Earth brown wire from seat connector to left side front door pillar earth connection.


Seat heaters
========

Fuse box F13 (15A) red 2.5 to upper red junction right side front door pillar loom. Positive connection (30a)

Fuse box F13 (15A) red with black stripe 1.5 x 2 to heater controls in climate panel (pin 4).

Fuse box F38 (10A) black with blue stripe extend to 2 x black with blue stripe to heater control in climate panel (pin 5).

Heater control in climate panel grey with blue stripe 0.35 (pin 1) to junction in centre console right loom. Positive connection (58b). Goes to grey with blue stripe 0.5 to light switch pin 17.

Heater control in climate panel brown with black stripe 0.5 (pin 6) to seat heater (pin 1)

Heater control in climate panel brown 1.0 (pin 6) to earth point left door pillar.

Seat heater brown 1.5 (pin 3) to earth point left door pillar.
Heater control in climate panel black with white stripe 0.5 (pin 3) to seat heater (pin 2)

Heater control in climate panel black with yellow stripe 1.0 (pin 2) to seat heater (pin 4)


Required connections:

Positive connection (30a) right side front door pillar loom upper connection.

Lighting connection grey with blue stripe in centre console right loop or light switch grey with blue stripe (pin 17)

Fuse 38 connection to black with blue stripe 1.0



Regards

Andrew
 
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Brilliant info Andrew - Many thanks!

Fuse Box:

OK, I managed to sort out fuse box last night - it has 4 locks on longest sides of the rectangle and 4 hooks at one side. A very flat screwdriver allows the 4 locks to be released and Pink lever on one side then lifts and pivots around the hooked end!

Earth: As you say Front Left or Right pillar is fine - just bolts on.

Positive (30): I extended the supplied wires (they were only 0.5m!) to 2m and managed to route via centre consol to fuse box.

Lumbar Fuse:

My car is the 1.2TDI so it has a fuse for other purposes in the position shown in Andrew's pics. So I've routed it via main fuse box and same rating on Fuse. But the Standard layout seems like a big fuse housing!
 

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OK, seats now back in - got the lumbar to work but as Andrew says the connection only needs 2 wires - not the three I have?!

Got Live feed sorted out for seat heaters (12 V DC at fuse 15A fitted) - tried linking switched live from Fuse 38 (10A) Black/blue - which reads Tacho, Climate, parking Sensors.Telephone via new 7.5A fuse - No joy.

So still looking into switched Live to get seat heaters working.
 
OK, seats now back in - got the lumbar to work but as Andrew says the connection only needs 2 wires - not the three I have?!

Got Live feed sorted out for seat heaters (12 V DC at fuse 15A fitted) - tried linking switched live from Fuse 38 (10A) Black/blue - which reads Tacho, Climate, parking Sensors.Telephone via new 7.5A fuse - No joy.

So still looking into switched Live to get seat heaters working.

Hi,

I've had a look at the photo of the underside of your seat. The yellow and yellow with black stripe wires in the seat's black connector are the relative earth points for the two change over switches to provide the drive of the motor in both directions. They are normally connected together and supplied by a single earth from the red connector. I can't see what happens there as the bar is in the way but you could check the pins in the red connector. Mine only has two so there is only need for two wires going to the seat!

Fuse 29, 31, 38 and 40 are all switched live from the ignition switch. Fuse 38 is the one normally used to power up the heater controls.

regards

Andrew
 
Houston we have lift off!

Well it's fitted and it works !

T'was a battle with a few wiring issues - mostly down to insufficent length power cables (red/white) and wrong side of Fuse 38 with poor connection to black/nlue wire.

Issues resolved by soldering in additonal length (about 1.5m extra) for power cables, using VW repair wires on fuse box.

Now have new fuses in fuse box:

15A Seat heater power circuit
7.5A Seat heater switched power via fuse 38 linkage
10A Lumbar circuit (yes just two wires - brown/blue redundant, so permanent power).

The Cubby mounted heater switches work very well - supplied by Prestige Motor Services ( www.prestigemotorservices.co.uk) - both the "Daves" are very helpful. If you plan to use the 4DO (Audi A8 versions) then make sure you spec the rear ones as the fronts have extra output for Heated Steering wheel !

You need to remove old fasica caps and slightly modify the lower corner alignment points inside the cubby housing to allow the heater control wheel to protrude through sufficiently.

DO NOT INSTALL Cubby until lower "ashtray" installed and you are absolutely sure you have correct SIDE for Heater switches and are happy with how they butt against front face. It is a pigs ear to remove if you don't!

Switch lighting was an issue - in the end I used the 1mm2 VW repair wire into the lighting controller at terminal 5 (side lights only) and terminal 11 (main lights only). First set of German loom instructions (Kunset) said terminal 5 but another online said terminal 17 (already occupied).


http://kunset.de/xxx_shop_alt-63634...di/Audi A2 8Z/Sitzheizung/Einbauanleitung.pdf


Overall a reasonable loom but they could have provided more relevant length power cables (suggest 2m for A2 due to the under floor or opposite side pillar connection for Terminal 30. It seems like this loom length was for a VW Golf /Seat Leon or similar which has fuse box and power source very close together.

Clearer instructions (maybe with diagrams) and more end fittings ( for the switched live and fuse connections - such as Contact Receptacle 17-13AQG, Power Timer contact Type A (2.5-4mm2) and JP Timer contact female crimp style) would have been nice.


Result:

OK, I know it's summer but just a low heat setting with the lumbar support sure makes a difference to lower back after 12.5 years of the standard seats!

Plus the leather is much easier to clean when you've got youngsters and wet weather!

This side of a Recaro race seat - Highly recommended!
 
I'm in the proces of retrofitting the heated seats-loom, and this thread has been of great help :)

I'm a bit stuck at how to insert the wiring in the back of the fuse box, as shown in the attached picture. There are a lot of wires, so it's difficult to see what you're actually doing. Should I just push it in? Do the other fuses need to be taken out first?IMG_3260.jpg
 
I'm in the proces of retrofitting the heated seats-loom, and this thread has been of great help :)

I'm a bit stuck at how to insert the wiring in the back of the fuse box, as shown in the attached picture. There are a lot of wires, so it's difficult to see what you're actually doing. Should I just push it in? Do the other fuses need to be taken out first?View attachment 26484

This link may give you some ideas - http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62584


Cheers Spike
 
If I have a full spares car to take the heated elements from is there a loom from the seats to the car that can be extracted or do the wires need made up?
 
I'm not aware that anyone has actually confirmed this but there is a strong rumour the factory fit seat heating elements are built into the seat covers and may not be easily removed.

Cheers Spike
 
I'm not aware that anyone has actually confirmed this but there is a strong rumour the factory fit seat heating elements are built into the seat covers and may not be easily removed.

Cheers Spike

Spike is correct in his above comment for leather heated seats elements - they are stiched in place and cannot be removed.
As far as I'm aware, cloth seat heated elements are not built into the covers.

As for the loom itself (a single loom incorporates both front seats), I bought a new loom from Germany that was only about £50 (some while ago now).
For that sort of cost I think it is better to use a new loom, but there are many other salvagable parts that make taking stuff from a breaker a very attractive proposition.

Hope that helps
Jeff
 
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