cam belt change?

hi guys could any member tell me what is the procces of replacing my cam belt and water pump on my 16fsi is it very hard? kind regards to all bob

Hi,

To be honest, if you're not sure of the process, then this isn't something you'd be wanting to tackle yourself.

It'll involve removing a front wheel and wheel arch liner, removing engine mounts and dropping and raising the engine, as well as performing the actual belts, ancillaries and water pump change.
You'll also need to re-tighten all bolts to very specific torque values.

Get it wrong, and that's a new or re-built engine needed.

Not a job for the faint-hearted you notice.

Cheers

Jeff

bobabout said:

hi guys could any member tell me what is the procces of replacing my cam belt and water pump on my 16fsi is it very hard? kind regards to all bob

Click to expand...

This old thread should give you an idea of what's involved - http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?22557-DIY-cambelt-change-on-a-1-6-FSi

Please heed the warning from Jeff and don't attempt it if you are not an experienced mechanic .


Cheers Spike

Hi

Took me 4-5 hours

It's do able, and it's not too bad as long as you follow the elsawin procedures exactly. Biggest hurdle is the crank pulley bolt, it's ridiculously tight. I spent 45 mins trying to get the thing to budge before I found a 3/4" drive socket that fitted an air impact wrench I had at work. My 1/2" gun didn't have the beef to shift it, and that will crack truck wheel nuts all day long.

Things can get a bit fiddly, the belt that runs between the cams can be tight to go on, but it does go on with a bit of fighting. Make sure you buy the belt and tensioner kit (genuine one) and a new water pump.

No special tools required, I used drill bits to lock up the cams and tipexed everything to make sure nothing moved while it was in bits

I wouldn't tackle this job without access to compressed air and air tools, just cos of the tightness of the pulley bolt.

And, check Elsawin for what bolts need replacing, from memory, the crank bolt has to be changed along with the top engine mount bolts.

Have fun!

mrtutz said:

It's do able, and it's not too bad as long as you follow the elsawin procedures exactly. Biggest hurdle is the crank pulley bolt, it's ridiculously tight. I spent 45 mins trying to get the thing to budge before I found a 3/4" drive socket that fitted an air impact wrench I had at work. My 1/2" gun didn't have the beef to shift it, and that will crack truck wheel nuts all day long.

Things can get a bit fiddly, the belt that runs between the cams can be tight to go on, but it does go on with a bit of fighting. Make sure you buy the belt and tensioner kit (genuine one) and a new water pump.

No special tools required, I used drill bits to lock up the cams and tipexed everything to make sure nothing moved while it was in bits

I wouldn't tackle this job without access to compressed air and air tools, just cos of the tightness of the pulley bolt.

And, check Elsawin for what bolts need replacing, from memory, the crank bolt has to be changed along with the top engine mount bolts.

Click to expand...

Surely you don't have to remove the crank pulley bolt, just the four socket screws to remove the auxiliary belt pulley? I wouldn't attempt this without a locking tool for the crankshaft.

RAB

Rab

One bolt in the crank pulley, and you need the pulley off to get the belt off.

I never locked the crank, I left the car in gear and used the mark on the belt pulley / case to make sure everything was bang on when I built it up again. It's a chamfered tooth as I remember

You only need to remove the vibration damper, which is held to the crank belt pulley by four socket screws. If you didn't lock the crank, your timing will be out for sure.

RAB

RAB said:

You only need to remove the vibration damper, which is held to the crank belt pulley by four socket screws. If you didn't lock the crank, your timing will be out for sure.

RAB

Click to expand...

Hi Rab

The petrol engine is quite different to the diesel and does not have a torsional vibration damper, just a pulley (for alternator and aircon) held on by a single bolt. The cambelt pulley is behind this.

Cheers Spike

spike said:

Hi Rab

The petrol engine is quite different to the diesel and does not have a torsional vibration damper, just a pulley (for alternator and aircon) held on by a single bolt. The cambelt pulley is behind this.

Cheers Spike

Click to expand...

Thanks for that Spike. I still wouldn't do it without the correct tools though, petrol or diesel.

RAB

thanks guys i am not a bad mac but have a mate who is the dogs if i get into trouble , so it should all go swimmingly ,famouse last words ,whatch this space? thanks for all the help .

RAB said:

You only need to remove the vibration damper, which is held to the crank belt pulley by four socket screws. If you didn't lock the crank, your timing will be out for sure.

RAB

Click to expand...

Nope. If you time everything up right and tippex the belt to the drive pulley mark, along with the cam pulley marks, then transfer these onto your new belt you can't time it up wrong.

With the top cams pinned with drill bits, and the box in gear, what's going to make the crank move?

There's a chamfered tooth on the drive that lines up with a mark at the bottom anyway, so once the new belts are on and tensioned, and the engines been turned over by hand a few times, check the timing marks still line up and the pins go in.