Alternator tensioner

C

chill

Member
Sorry if this has been covered but I've searched and can't find all the answers I'm looking for.

I've been told by garage that tensioner has gone and was looking into getting it replaced however money is tight so I'm thinking of tackling this myself?!

Is there a guide on here anywhere to do this?

Are ina parts oem parts? I've read somewhere they are just not stamped!

What price am I looking at for tensioner and where is best place to buy?

Also the car has a starting fault when warm, I'm clutching at straws here but is there any possibility this could be related?

Thanks in advance!
 
chill said:
Sorry if this has been covered but I've searched and can't find all the answers I'm looking for.

I've been told by garage that tensioner has gone and was looking into getting it replaced however money is tight so I'm thinking of tackling this myself?!

Is there a guide on here anywhere to do this?

Are ina parts oem parts? I've read somewhere they are just not stamped!

What price am I looking at for tensioner and where is best place to buy?

Also the car has a starting fault when warm, I'm clutching at straws here but is there any possibility this could be related?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


Replacing the tensioner is easy enough on a TDI but I don't know if that also applies to the petrol engines.

It is just a couple of small bolts and no specialist tools, also it is at the front of the engine and so you can actually get to it.

I can't remember how much I paid for a new tensioner but I don't think they are dear. Try Stoke Audi online.

Steve B
 
It's a tdi so that's good! Is it jus a bolt off bolt on affair? What about releasing the tension from the tensioner? Or am I being daft?
Thanks.
 
chill said:
It's a tdi so that's good! Is it jus a bolt off bolt on affair? What about releasing the tension from the tensioner? Or am I being daft?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

You are not being daft at all, I am not sure if there is a specific method or tool but I just slackened off the bolts carefully and tried to hold back the tension slightly while I removed the first bolt. That slackened off the tension enough to get the other bolt out.

Just be careful with any part like this that is under tension.

Steve B
 
I think the 'official' way to remove the tensioner is to rotate the tensioner arm back against the spring (use a ring key on the cast hexagon low down on the arm) The belt should then be slack enough to slip it off the pulleys - make a note of the belt routing first, so it goes back the same way.
Steve's way is also an option if you don't have the kit for the official way
The new tensioner will be locked so just bolt it on, fit the belt then remove the locking pin - you may need to edge the arm back a touch with the ring key to make removal of the locking pin a bit easier.

Depending on your workshop skills it's also possible just to replace the tensioner pulley bearings - http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...lt-tensioner-bearing&highlight=bearing+number

Also worth noting that a seized 'freewheel' alternator pulley can give similar belt hopping symptoms to a failing tensioner

Cheers Spike
 
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Replacing the TDi tensioner is pretty straight forward, but follow some basic common sense - keep your fingers clear of the assembly as the spring is quite powerful and all you need are a basic socket set and a nail or something disposable (to use as a locking pin) of around 4mm diameter. I'd also recommend that for the extra £18 or so you should put a new auxiliary belt on too.


You can find the instructions here:


http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...ley_end)/removing_and_installing_poly_v-belt/

In addition, you'll need to undo the 3 bolts that secure the tensioner to remove it. I believe new tensioners come with the locking pin installed to make the job easier. When removing the pin, take up tension with a spanner or socket and after you've removed the pin, slowly let the tensioner wheel come to rest on the belt - don't let it shoot back as it will do with some force. That spring is pretty tough and carries some pressure.

Hope this helps,


Michael
 
Thanks for the replies guys it's sounds pretty easy!! Famous last words!

Anyone any pointers on where to get parts? I've seen an ina one at gsf for £50'ish or these same as oem or should I just go to audi?
 
Yes, the Ina version is available for about £55 at Eurocarparts, so knowing you can get this, it does no harm in calling your local dealer to ask for the cost of the genuine part. You may be pleasantly surprised, you may be shocked - let us know which it is!

Cheers,

Michael
 
Funnily enough Im buying a tensioner on saturday.

Im going to get mine and a new belt from gsfcarparts using the pistonheads discount code to give 25% discount. Total for my fsi comes to £53 I think. This is for a INA tensioner. Discount code is PISTON25
 
Hi everyone,

I tried doing this on my FSI today and have admitted defeat and given up.

How do I remove the whole tensioner? There is a bolt on the back of it, but I can't get access to it, do I need a special tool or a combination of sockets? And what size is the bolt?

Any help would be a massive help.
 
Stuebydoo said:
Hi everyone,

I tried doing this on my FSI today and have admitted defeat and given up.

How do I remove the whole tensioner? There is a bolt on the back of it, but I can't get access to it, do I need a special tool or a combination of sockets? And what size is the bolt?

Any help would be a massive help.
Click to expand...

It's a slightly different process for the FSi engine, but this link should help you out:

http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2/power_unit/4-cylinder_direct_injection_engine_(1.6_ltr._4-valve)_mechanics/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/cylinder_block_(pulley_end)/removing_and_installing_tensioner_for_poly_v-belt/

Hope this helps,


Michael
 
Yeah I used that guide, but it's the removal of the bolt that holds the tensioner in that I can't get my head around. I think I might need some universal joints and a couple of extensions maybe to get to it. Would have been so much easier if the bolts were on the front like a normal tensioner :S
 
Yes, that's the only way to get in there - no need to disassemble anything else though.

The bolt is listed as being M10, so I'd imagine the head size to be 14mm hex, possibly 16mm. You'll not need a deep reach socket, but a u/j is a must.

Cheers,

Michael
 
Don't forget, the 1.6FSi was the first production FSi engine used by Audi, following its successful debut in the Le Mans car. It was a proper Mk1 job and a lot of details were modified in subsequent versions of the engine as wrinkles in design were ironed out.

You're driving the world's first production FSi engine there - a little piece of history really.

Cheers,

Michael
 
I was thinking it was probably a 16mm, but it could be 14mm. I will gather the required attachments for my ratchet and update when completed. I was impressed with the underside of the car though, I dont think I've ever owned a car without rust on it :D
 
I've tried to tackle this today and unfortunately had a few difficulties!!

I couldn't get the tensioner to move far enough to get the locking pin in, I struggled as I think the first spanner I used wasn't long enough so I couldn't get the leverage, I then reverted to my socket set which was much easier but unfortunately the back of the ratchet fouled on the body before I had sufficient movement. So next I tried a bar to lever it and that kept slipping, so finally I reverted back to the spanner and tried getting something on the end to give me more leverage unfortunately this was quite difficult and it kept slipping so now the spanner that did fit 5/8 doesn't any more and I'm a little at a loss??!

The question is??

How much tension is there?? The old one just needs to come off and go in bin so what would happen if I just loosen off the three bolts??
Will I loose a finger?
Or could I just put a pin in where it is to stop it moving further and take it off that way??

HELP IM READY TO STOMP ON THE BONNET THATS ON THE FLOOR NEXT TO ME!!
 
chill said:
I've tried to tackle this today and unfortunately had a few difficulties!!

I couldn't get the tensioner to move far enough to get the locking pin in, I struggled as I think the first spanner I used wasn't long enough so I couldn't get the leverage, I then reverted to my socket set which was much easier but unfortunately the back of the ratchet fouled on the body before I had sufficient movement. So next I tried a bar to lever it and that kept slipping, so finally I reverted back to the spanner and tried getting something on the end to give me more leverage unfortunately this was quite difficult and it kept slipping so now the spanner that did fit 5/8 doesn't any more and I'm a little at a loss??!

The question is??

How much tension is there?? The old one just needs to come off and go in bin so what would happen if I just loosen off the three bolts??
Will I loose a finger?
Or could I just put a pin in where it is to stop it moving further and take it off that way??

HELP IM READY TO STOMP ON THE BONNET THATS ON THE FLOOR NEXT TO ME!!
Click to expand...

OK, first things first - no Audi bolt head will ever be an imperial (5/8") size, so the slipping from your second attempt has I fear distorted the head of the bolt (well, it's not a bolt actually, just a cast piece to rotate the tensioner).

How much tension? Lots, as you've found from your attempts to get enough pressure on your various tools. I'd really not suggest just taking the mounting bolts off as there will be the distinct possibility of causing damage to yourself or some of the components around the tensioner as the spring unloads. You really do need to get that pin in position to lock the assembly prior to removing it from the block.

I've always managed it quite easily using a breaker bar and a short socket. It's not the easiest thing to do first time round, but you'll get the knack.


Cheers

Michael
 
I managed to actually change mine today, and must admit I did use a 5/8th spanner on the tensioner. Are you turning it the right way (towards the back of the car if working from underneath) I managed to undo the bolt on the old one by turning it the wrong way but was easy to nip back up and do correctly.

The new tensioner had more tension in the spring to me, as it seemed a lot harder to release the locking pin.

On the FSI (and I believe the 1.4 petrol) you have one bolt holding the tensioner in from behind, which is quite difficult to get access to and you need to do it by feel. I found it quite fiddly to put the new tensioner in the hole, but after some wiggling it eventually found it's way in. I seem to remember the bolt on mine holding the tensioner in was actually 13mm.

My old tensioner was going, but wasnt totally shot (I've taken off much worse on previous cars), my mileage is 103k.
 
5/8 inch equates to 15.9mm - so I'd think a 16mm socket would be the best bet.

Speaking of sockets, you're always better off using a hex socket to do this job as opposed to a bi-hex (one with 12 angles inside the socket head) as it spreads the load over a bigger surface and is less likely to slip or round off the bolt head.

All the tensioners should be turned clockwise as you look at them end on, to release the belt.



Cheers

Michael
 
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