DarkHorse
A2OC Donor
Hi everyone,
Perhaps this has already been discussed somewhere, but I just thought I'd post my experience of changing the buttons across from an Audi A4 B5 Avant 2.8 Quattro Facelift Climate Controle module 2Din 8D0820043Q (the image of the entire unit is the donor one - I did not remove my one at all).
Bought off Ebay for £15, it looked like an easy straight swap.
I used a couple of Stanley blades to lift out the existing buttons in my A2 with zero damage to fascia. Could not do this with the donor unit. The buttons were in really tight and, just as other posters have said, you do need to be quite forceful with some of the buttons to get them out.
The rocker switches, Auto, Off and recirculate buttons all went straight in and worked fine. However the remaining buttons on either side of the unit, once pushed into place, remained completely depressed and would not have any movement.
Thought I'd drawn a dud donor unit. I just could not see what the problem was until I noticed a small depression a few mm deep on my existing buttons when compared to the donor ones (see photos). Broke out a 3mm drill bit, replicated the depression, and hey presto, the buttons slid into place and now allow the movement required to let the buttons be depressed and pop back.
Quite simple in the end really, but I don't know why there was such a design difference when everything else is identical. Hopefully this can help someone down the line, and hopefully I haven't just replicated a post by someone else. I did a search but couldn't find one relating to the stuck buttons.
Really pleased with the replacement buttons, glad I did it. At night the unit just looked a complete mess, now everything is crystal clear, and the surface treatment looks like it will last a lot longer than the originals.
Perhaps this has already been discussed somewhere, but I just thought I'd post my experience of changing the buttons across from an Audi A4 B5 Avant 2.8 Quattro Facelift Climate Controle module 2Din 8D0820043Q (the image of the entire unit is the donor one - I did not remove my one at all).
Bought off Ebay for £15, it looked like an easy straight swap.
I used a couple of Stanley blades to lift out the existing buttons in my A2 with zero damage to fascia. Could not do this with the donor unit. The buttons were in really tight and, just as other posters have said, you do need to be quite forceful with some of the buttons to get them out.
The rocker switches, Auto, Off and recirculate buttons all went straight in and worked fine. However the remaining buttons on either side of the unit, once pushed into place, remained completely depressed and would not have any movement.
Thought I'd drawn a dud donor unit. I just could not see what the problem was until I noticed a small depression a few mm deep on my existing buttons when compared to the donor ones (see photos). Broke out a 3mm drill bit, replicated the depression, and hey presto, the buttons slid into place and now allow the movement required to let the buttons be depressed and pop back.
Quite simple in the end really, but I don't know why there was such a design difference when everything else is identical. Hopefully this can help someone down the line, and hopefully I haven't just replicated a post by someone else. I did a search but couldn't find one relating to the stuck buttons.
Really pleased with the replacement buttons, glad I did it. At night the unit just looked a complete mess, now everything is crystal clear, and the surface treatment looks like it will last a lot longer than the originals.
