Caliper Removal Help

S

scallywag10

Member
Hi,

I have a 1.6 FSI and my rear drivers side calliper seems to be seised and is causing the breaks to bind. I have order a new caliper ready for fitting. Im changing the discs and pads at the same time as that seems logical!

Has anyone got any hints / tips in advance of me swapping it over. I have not removed a caliper fully before. A friend is recommending a tool that pinches the brake hose so that you don't need to drain the whole brake system. Has anyone got experience of this?

Many thanks

Laurence
 
Hi - If I were you and was unsure of the procedure for removal and refitting of brake callipers, then I would seek out a qualified mechanic to do the job as you could put yourself and other people at risk if you get it wrong IMHO
 
scallywag10 said:
Hi,

I have a 1.6 FSI and my rear drivers side calliper seems to be seised and is causing the breaks to bind. I have order a new caliper ready for fitting. Im changing the discs and pads at the same time as that seems logical!

Has anyone got any hints / tips in advance of me swapping it over. I have not removed a caliper fully before. A friend is recommending a tool that pinches the brake hose so that you don't need to drain the whole brake system. Has anyone got experience of this?

Many thanks

Laurence
Click to expand...

Hi,

the calliper is detached during the normal procedure of changing pads. The only difference for you for replacement would be disconnecting the hydraulic brake line.

DSC03318b.jpg

The calliper is held on by two bolts indicated in red. The genuine Audi replacement brake pad set contains replacement bolts with one time use locking compound on the threads.

The handbrake cable is attached by a ball on the end which fits into a hook on the lever indicated in blue.

To fully detach the calliper from the car you will need to disconnect the hydraulic line indicated in green.

As you will be replacing discs and pads on both sides, you will need a "brake piston wind back tool" to reset the handbrake self adjusting mechanism to account for the new thicker pads.

regards

Andrew
 
Lawrence, you need not remove the hydraulic line to any of the callipers on an A2 to replace the discs or pads. Just ensure that the flexi-hose is supported to prevent strain. Now is also a good time to inspect for cracks & perishing to the hoses.

blue skies
tony
 
Thanks Andrew - Graet reply very helpful. Ive managed to replace the caliper which worked just fine but I haven't been able to change the discs which is annoying. The bolts that hold my clapper to the main arm are a female hex type and are completely rounded on the inside (not due to me!!!). Ive put the old disc back on for the time being but rather frustrating not to be able to change them when I changed the caliper...
 
manhattan$ said:
Guys, is there a special tool needed for replacing just the rear pads?
Click to expand...

The only "special" tool required is a Brake Piston Wind-Back tool to rotate the piston and reset the handbrake automatical adjustment.

I have this one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000RA18AE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

which also doubles as a piston compressor so works with the front brakes too.

The calliper is just held on by two bolts so you will need spanners or spanner + socket.

regards

Andrew
 
scallywag10 said:
Thanks Andrew - Graet reply very helpful. Ive managed to replace the caliper which worked just fine but I haven't been able to change the discs which is annoying. The bolts that hold my clapper to the main arm are a female hex type and are completely rounded on the inside (not due to me!!!). Ive put the old disc back on for the time being but rather frustrating not to be able to change them when I changed the caliper...
Click to expand...

Hi,

I presume the problem is that you can't get the other calliper off so can't change the disc on the side which you aren't replacing?

If the bolts are rounded then you can try some Irwin Bold Grip removers.

regards

Andrew
 
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