TDI engine swap

macandy0

Member
I have a 2001 1.4 TDI and unfortunately I had both timing belt tensioners fail recently, with subsequent results. It seemed the camshaft was at least 140 degrees out of sync with the crankshaft so I feared the worse, although it happened at very low speed. The camshaft was also seized. I removed the engine and pulled off the head to reveal a bent exhaust valve in number 2 cylinder, probably seized in its guide. I have found a complete car with a fairly light frontal impact and it has a seemingly very good engine and gearbox with 60'000 km less than mine. There are also some other parts I can use on this car including a good set of wheels and tyres. The interior is very clean and perhaps I can re sell this and other parts. If I choose to go this route rather than rebuilding my original head ( I see there is some camshaft wear) or sourcing a replacement head, and fit the complete engine and gearbox from the accident-ed car, will I have to have my ECU reprogrammed my keys re-coded? Both engines are AMF code and I believe from the same year, 2001. Any advice would be very much appreciated.
 
I have a 2001 1.4 TDI and unfortunately I had both timing belt tensioners fail recently, with subsequent results. It seemed the camshaft was at least 140 degrees out of sync with the crankshaft so I feared the worse, although it happened at very low speed. The camshaft was also seized. I removed the engine and pulled off the head to reveal a bent exhaust valve in number 2 cylinder, probably seized in its guide. I have found a complete car with a fairly light frontal impact and it has a seemingly very good engine and gearbox with 60'000 km less than mine. There are also some other parts I can use on this car including a good set of wheels and tyres. The interior is very clean and perhaps I can re sell this and other parts. If I choose to go this route rather than rebuilding my original head ( I see there is some camshaft wear) or sourcing a replacement head, and fit the complete engine and gearbox from the accident-ed car, will I have to have my ECU reprogrammed my keys re-coded? Both engines are AMF code and I believe from the same year, 2001. Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Hi,

The keys will be fine, they are linked to the instrument cluster and CCCU rather than the ECU, and the ECU can stay (assuming that the replacement engine is from an A2 too.) But I would rather someone else confirms that too.


Steve B
 
Thanks as said I am considering buying a complete car to do the engine repalcement and it is definitely the same type AMF
 
Thanks as said I am considering buying a complete car to do the engine repalcement and it is definitely the same type AMF

You should be fine then.

Good luck with this, it looks like you will be turning two potential scrap A2s into one very nice and usable one.

Cheers
Steve B
 
Hello again

That deal with buying a complete car fell through but I have now sourced a TDi AMF motor from a VW Polo so I will have to swap over some parts. Are there any pitfalls with this?
Dose anyone have the torque wrench settings for the flywheel bolts and the clutch plate bolts? These were loose when I bought the engine.

Any info would be highly appreciated, thanks
 
Hi Macandy0,

Your post above implies that you already know this, but be aware that the AMF engine from the Polo isn't identical. Although the block and head are the same, there are plenty of differences elsewhere. As such, if you're to use it in your A2, you'll need to make one good engine from the two you've got.

The sump is different; the A2 has an oil level sensor, whereas the Polo does not. As such, the sump attached to the Polo's engine won't have the required hole for the sensor.
Obviously things like the inlet manifold are likely to be different, but such things are easily swapped around.

All the best with your project. No doubt everyone here is pleased to see someone making the effort to save an A2. :)

Tom
 
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Hello again


Does anyone have the torque wrench settings for the flywheel bolts and the clutch plate bolts? These were loose when I bought the engine.

Any info would be highly appreciated, thanks


The nearest I can find is from other Audi models (better than nothing, but only a VERY rough guide)

*********************************
Torque specifications (Ft-lbs)
ALH engine:
(always replace bolts in bold)
-Drian plug (19mm) 22
-Cam bearing cap (13mm) 15
-Vacuum pump
(13mm) 15
-Valve cover (5mm allen) 7
-Cam sprocket (19mm) 33
-T-belt
tensioner (13mm) 15
-IP sprocket bolts (13mm) 18
-Pendulum mount to
Body mount:
(16mm) 30 + 1/4 turn
-Engine mount to engine bracket:(18mm) 44 + 1/4 turn (updated bolts [grey in color] are 74 ft.lbs.
trans and engine side)
-Crank shaft bolt: 88 + 90
degrees
-Crankshaft main bearing bolts: 48ft lb + 90
degrees
-Connecting rod bolts: 22 + 1/4 turn (oiled threads and
contact surfaces)
-Oil pan bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Bell housing to oil
pan (16mm) 33
-Front seal carrier bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Rear seal
carrier bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Harmonic balancer bolts (6mm allen) 18 Ft
Lb
-Flywheel to crank bolts: 44 + 1/4turn
-Pressure plate to
flywheel bolts: 10 ft lb
Loosen and tighten gradually and diagonally (for
DMF)

-Bell housing to engine block: 60
-Starter bolts: 50
-Oil
filter housing bolts (
10mm/5mm allen) 11 + 1/4 turn
-Serpentine belt
tensioner (13mm) 18
-Thermostat housing (10mm/5mm allen) 11 don't over do
this puppy



-Large timing belt roller:(16mm) 30 + 1/4
turn
-Small upper timing belt roller bolt(13mm) 15
-Small lower timing
belt roller nut (13mm) 15
-Intake Manifold to head bolts (6mm allen)
18
-Cylinder head bolts (12mm 12pt.) tighten in the proper sequence to
30, then 44, then 1/4 turn, then 1/4 turn
sequence:
 
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