Since I and others have struggled with knowing exactly what is needed to fit the undertray on, here is a list of exactly what is needed to fit the undertray on to your A2. Since petrol and diesel undertrays vary, this will be specific to petrol A2s (both 1.4 and 1.6).
Needed:
One undertray (obviously!) - part number 8Z0 825 235 E - cost £94.90 from e.g. Stoke Audi. (pic 3)
12 hex panel screws - These do the job nicely
9 speed fasteners (spires) - These may already be attached to the car - do check this! 3 are not needed as the ones that attach to the chassis should not be removable. Get something like these - the number 6 ones. Exact size of these is a little bit flexible, so long as it holds the screws.
2 10mm nuts - these fit to the bolts under the wheel arches. Ensure that the threads match. (pic 1)
Suggested:
2 further panel screws and spires - drill an extra hole each side of the undertray and bumper to stop a bit flapping about (pic 2, no idea why this wasn't done to start with).
Washers - while not needed it will do no harm to put washers on the two bolts.
Tools:
Ramps / jack and axle stands to raise up the front of the car. I doubt this is even possible without doing so. (pic 4)
Hex screwdriver (pic 7).
10mm socket wrench / ratchet spanner / spanner.
Torch or other light source.
Screwdriver or something to be used as a lever for the under / over bits at the front.
Make sure all of the spires are in place first, on just the uppermost bit of plastic at each of the holes (pic 6). There are 12 holes in total on the undertray which will match with holes on the bottom of the car: three along the bottom of the front bumper, three at the back attaching to the chassis, and three at each side. There are a further two holes on the inner wheel arch liner which will correspond to the bolts coming out of the car (pic 5); they fit over easily.
Affix the front bumper screws first, this gets the awkward under / over fitting out of the way. The screw points must be on the outside of the bumper, with the rest of the undertray tucked inside (pic 8). This should be obvious due to the channels in the undertay and bumper making the reverse impossible.
Everything else is straightforward. Leave the nuts on the wheel arches to last as they are the easiest to get on.
Needed:
One undertray (obviously!) - part number 8Z0 825 235 E - cost £94.90 from e.g. Stoke Audi. (pic 3)
12 hex panel screws - These do the job nicely
9 speed fasteners (spires) - These may already be attached to the car - do check this! 3 are not needed as the ones that attach to the chassis should not be removable. Get something like these - the number 6 ones. Exact size of these is a little bit flexible, so long as it holds the screws.
2 10mm nuts - these fit to the bolts under the wheel arches. Ensure that the threads match. (pic 1)
Suggested:
2 further panel screws and spires - drill an extra hole each side of the undertray and bumper to stop a bit flapping about (pic 2, no idea why this wasn't done to start with).
Washers - while not needed it will do no harm to put washers on the two bolts.
Tools:
Ramps / jack and axle stands to raise up the front of the car. I doubt this is even possible without doing so. (pic 4)
Hex screwdriver (pic 7).
10mm socket wrench / ratchet spanner / spanner.
Torch or other light source.
Screwdriver or something to be used as a lever for the under / over bits at the front.
Make sure all of the spires are in place first, on just the uppermost bit of plastic at each of the holes (pic 6). There are 12 holes in total on the undertray which will match with holes on the bottom of the car: three along the bottom of the front bumper, three at the back attaching to the chassis, and three at each side. There are a further two holes on the inner wheel arch liner which will correspond to the bolts coming out of the car (pic 5); they fit over easily.
Affix the front bumper screws first, this gets the awkward under / over fitting out of the way. The screw points must be on the outside of the bumper, with the rest of the undertray tucked inside (pic 8). This should be obvious due to the channels in the undertay and bumper making the reverse impossible.
Everything else is straightforward. Leave the nuts on the wheel arches to last as they are the easiest to get on.
Attachments
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