Replacing an Audi A2 Outer CV Joint Without Removing the Driveshaft

Hi all,

I have been reading the forum but thought I would make a contribution as I don't think such a guide with pictures exists.

This is for the nearside outer CV joint on a 2001 A2 1.4 petrol.

Note: the engine under tray is missing on my car. Not sure if it would otherwise be in the way.

Always use axle stands.

Essential tools:
36mm 12 point socket
Breaker bar or impact wrench
17mm, 18mm, (19mm?) socket or spanners

First remove the centre cap on your wheel and loosen off the 36mm hub nut. Mine came off easily with a breaker bar. Loosen wheel nuts, jack up, put on axle stands and remove wheel.

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Disconnect track rod (loosen nut then hit the part of the steering knuckle that that the track rod end goes through and it should drop out)

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Extract the bolt at the front of the wishbone

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Use a socket extension to hit the end of the cv joint spline. I recommend keeping the nut on at this point to avoid damaging the thread. This should release the spline from the hub.

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You should be able to pull the hub forwards/to the side enough to pull the driveshaft out the back.

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Remove the rubber boot fasteners and pull boot back. Use a hammer and possibly extension or drift to hit the back of the cv joint to knock it off the spline. It has a split ring in a groove so may require some force. Look at your new one to figure out the best place to hit it.

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Remove old boot, clean up the spline. SLIDE ON NEW BOOT AT THIS POINT! Pack new cv joint with grease supplied with the kit and tap it into position. Slide boot over it and fasten. I used a cable tie for the smaller end as the metal ring supplied was difficult to get tight.

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Now reassemble everything! I had difficulty getting the track rod end bolt to do back up as it was quite rusty and the shaft was spinning in the joint. In the end I placed an axle stand under the track rod end and carefully lowered the car down onto it which wedged the shaft into the steering knuckle tight enough for me to do the nut up.


All in all a very satisfying job. Sorry if I missed steps. I rushed through this a bit.

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Good job. By the way you can use a pair of carpenter snips to get the hose clamps tight, it pulls the slack out of the clamp and makes for a much tighter fit.

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Good tip with the snips!

Yes I should have mentioned that the hub bolt especially should be tightened to the correct torque setting (I didn't do this as I didn't have it to hand... but I did renew the nut as the kit came with one)

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Nice guide and +1 on the carpenet pliers for tightening the metal bands (if you don't have the appropriate tool)! This is also a good time to check your front wheel bearings. Any damage can easily be felt when the drive shaft is removed.
 
The Audi ELSA says to glue the CV joint on all cars when replacing. I used Loctite 601 on mine.

Thanks for the guide! On note of precaution though. The bolt holding the wishbone is a stretch bolt. It should always be replaced when loosened. The manual says to torque it to 70 NM and the 90 degrees.
If you don't want to unmount the wishbone at the chassi, you could loosen to ball joint on the outside of the control arm instead. That way you also get enough space to remove the driveshaft.
 
This was helpful, thanks. I couldn't get the outer cv joint out of the hub splines though. I got this from Amazon: It's not really the right tool but it was only £20 and although the arms foul the wheel spigot it did the job. The outer cv splines took an enormous force to remove, and then released with some alarming cracking sounds. I guess this was just because a bearing locking compound had been used.1522255592774.png
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Had the occasional knock since having mine replaced the other week. Got a pair of GuV joints from J&R, as recommended on these forums and had the work done at Awesome, prior to MOT, as the nearside boot was split last year, so the joint will have needed replacing this year.

It's a low speed/no speed (manoeuvring/setting off) clunk, which I mistook to be the strut top bearings at first, or I thought it'd be things settling in, but 2 weeks later, it's still happening, not every time I do a 3 point turn, but it'll normally happen once a journey.

Thoughts??
 
Never experienced anything like that with my A2. However on other cars, engine mounts or tie rods.
 
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Tomasz151 said:
Image of track rod end on axle stand.

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Brill Tomasz, I got to do the very job for the MOT this month, I didn’t know how it came off so your post has sorted that one out for me, I’ll order a rubber gaitor kit now, thanks
 
Xiter said:
I believe the CV joint spline is glued to the hub on diesels so it would make the job a whole lot worse for diesel owners.
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Do you have any more info on these glued in cv joints on the diesels, I was about to do my cv gaiter after reading Tomasz post, but your post suggests the diesels are not so easy to remove, do you know the easiest way to remove them ?
 
Kramretsimis said:
Do you have any more info on these glued in cv joints on the diesels, I was about to do my cv gaiter after reading Tomasz post, but your post suggests the diesels are not so easy to remove, do you know the easiest way to remove them ?
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I think your referring to loctite ( glue) either green or blue in colour anti vibration glue, used on the splines of the cv joint and used both on petrol and diesel. to get mine off i used a plank of wood or brass drift something softer than the spline and a big hammer! or use a tool to press it out the hub
 
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