Vacuum actuator and intake flap end fix -- update!

Birdfish

Member
Hi all,

here is an update and cheap fix for this broken part from my last post on..........

(http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...mp-Potentiometer-part-number-amp-Costs-anyone)

After looking around for a new cheap Vacuum actuator/Solenoid valve and Potentiometer etc I decided to try and fix it myself, here's how it goes in pictures.

1. Broken Vacuum actuator arm fix.

2. it works perfectly and is super reinforced strong, better than original.

Intake manifold flap end fix.

1. as you can see in Photo 7 the broken part from the intake manifold flap is attached, with very steady hands I sprayed a little of the Glue power onto both surfaces of the broken components, held it in place as the power is dry at this point, once I had in on correctly I applied the Glue via the Swans neck accurate pipe attachment that comes in the kit and ran the glue in very slowly, it activates in 7 seconds, I gave it 20 seconds then moved the intake manifold flaps up and down just incase any stray glue went where it shouldn't but, it was fine and worked well.
after 30 minutes I sprayed WD40 into the Potentiometer for good measure.

Everything works well now but, still have the dreaded flat spot at 3000 rpm, that only happens after over-run and then acceleration, crazy? Sometimes it's ok, reading on these forums it would seem this is an enigma of a problem!
Anyway we'll see how it goes.

Forgot to say that this EVER BUILD glue is fantastic stuff and it really works! £ 9.98 from Toolstation etc.

Solenoid fix.

1. strip out solenoid and fill with WD40, check contacts then remove WD40, get a 12 volt supply and test the solenoid works by tapping positive with probe from 12 volt supply, do this tapping fast as thats what the ECU does (so I've read). Then replace all vacuum pipes attached to this including the wee none return valve on the side of the engine, make sure you take note of the correct direction here, dark (Black) down and light side up on mine. Clean this out with WD40 too, then blow one way and turn around blow again and you cant blow through it, it should be ok then.

When replacing the solenoid watch out for the screw/hex bolt square washers as they can drop into the bottom of the engine and your stuffed!


VC 1.jpgVC 2.jpgVC 3.jpgVC 4.jpgVC 5.jpgVC 6.jpgVC 7.jpgVC 8.jpg



I can't up load any more photos so I'll upload on another post

Broken inlet manifold end flap position (yes it's fiddly alright!) Shown repaired and in place. (see other post)

Hope this helps you all in some small way.


Cheers

Doug
 
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CONTINUED From above;

Other part Vacuum actuator.

Broken inlet manifold end flap position (yes it's fiddly alright!) Shown repaired and in place.

This job took around 2 hours, it is best to leave the engine lifting bracket out and it will need to be reinserted with a shorter bolt, do this if your not stripping the engine down.

Hope all this helps. and I'll update on how it goes.

Cheers

Doug

P1030910.jpgP1030919.jpgP1030921.jpg
 
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Hi Guy's,

New update on this fix.

Well I've sorted the problem and the car is running very smoothly now with no flat spot at 3000rpm, I reset the diagnostics (Flap not reached etc) and works spot on, very responsive.

Now you all know you don't need to replace the vacuum/arm etc, just fix them with Everbuild super-glue!

Cheers

Doug
 
Hi Doug,

I am seriously thinking of trying this.
You don't say, or if you do I missed it, what the brass piece that you fixed the arm with is or where it came from.
 
Hi Alan,

you can get this Barrel hinge from B&Q too or most diy stores, it's a tricky job and requires a lot of thought before you start the job, remember if you just have a broken vacuum arm then you will have to make sure the intake manifold flaps are opening smoothly or without too much resistance, do this with a hook inserting it to the intake MF plastic end where the vac arm fits but, DON'T pull or push too hard otherwise it will break off like mine did, if you want me to talk you through this then I'm happy to do it, we can get together and swap numbers through the admin private messages etc I reckon.


All the best

Doug
 
Hi Doug,
I could not get a hinge locally so one is coming in post.
My lower manifold assy is new so it is just the broken arm I need to fix

I have taken the actuator out before to have a look. Not too difficult when the arm is broken.
I cannot see how the broken piece is connected but it seems to be behind the potentiometer by the drawing.
That is not so easy to get off.

I assume that as the flaps are not operating now I could remove the actuator and still drive the car while I am fixing it.

I will let you know when I get the hinge and am able to start via PM.

Thanks
 
Hi Alan,

sorry just replying.

Yes flaps should be working if they move easy enough, there is a snap resistance on mine but it's ok, and you can drive the car by just leaving the flaps in the open position.

Just be careful removing the broken end vacuum part that may be still stuck in the inlet manifold flap part (as above in last posts), you may have to drill it out to remove or use angled probe and tweezers to push or pull out.

You may have to leave out the engine mount bracket too, as i said it's fiddly job and needs lots of thought....

DO NOT try to bend the intake manifold part the vacuum arm connects to.

Good luck!
 
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image.jpgGutted. Broke off the operating arm getting the broken part out.
I don't think there is any way back from here!image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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I had this exact problem caused by a cowboy mechanic unfortunately for me the only fix cost over £700 which was to replace the whole upper manifold as I don't think that part in your first pic is replaceable on its own
 
hi Birdfish,

thanks for your detailed photos of how you repaired the intake manifold actuator. Like so many, the plastic rod snapped on mine too. Having read your thread I had a go yesterday at getting the actuator and seperate broken bit attached to the operating arm off.

the actuator is fairly straightforward to get off once you have removed the MAF and pulled the MAF air inlet to one side.

I used a 5mm and 3mm allen key. the 3mm allen key needs to be cut down so it can get into the small gap. getting the main body off is ok, the remaining broken bit is more fiddly.

having read alans post above i decided to be very careful and cut the broken part off. i used a brand ne sharp jigsaw blade and cut the broken bit off by hand. cut the retain lug off one side and through the main part on the other side, using the video on my mobile phone to see what i was doing on the lug side. i will upload some photos later that should help.

i think you need to be very careful that the blade doesnot fall through the gaps, along with the plastic bit that is cut off.

from what i could feel the flaps were moving ok, but i'm not sure if they have full travel as the broken part wouldn't go high enough the clear into the recess in the block. that meant it had to be cut to get it out. i'll be rebuilding that actuator when the everbuild glue arrives. i'll update later with results and photos. cheers
 
Hi NOD & Everyone.

sorry for just getting round to being back on the forum and replying to your post.

Well done on on the Vacuum arm fix, yes it's fiddly but easy to do once you have thought it through and as long as it ends up being the same size as before.

I'm sorry to report that my fix on the lug part I repaired connected to the air intake manifold/Potentiometer broke off again last month after a journey up the Ambleside Struggle in the Lakes, the car lost power third of the way up and had to put it in 1st gear to get up some of that hill, after that it ran ok mostly all the way home.

I'm going to attempt a re-fix on this part by inserting tiny pins to give it more strength and re-glue it but will have to remove more of the side of the engine to access this, let you all know how I do when I have time to do this job.

BTW the fix on the vacuum rod/arm is fine and still working.

The strange thing is the power loss on general flat driving is negligible, the other week on a 214 mile round trip journey I managed to achieve 53.4 miles per gallon verified by a friend, that's the best I've ever had on my car, usually 44 - 45 mpg average so I wonder sometimes what broken part really does here to fuel economy, anyway I'll fix it regardless.

Cheers
 
I had a go at this today but ended up fixing it a different way.

I used a 5mm allen key cut to the correct dimensions. Common sense and a vernier caliper would be needed. Then with the aid of a drill press I drilled two 3mm holes in it and then another set on the actuator rod so it can be held with two M3 bolts/nuts. The second one as you can see in the pictures would not clear the potensiometer so I filled it with plastic epoxy either side to give it some strength. I used epoxy to fill the supports that have been removed in order to fit the allen key as you can see in the pictures. For making room for the allen key and bolts/nuts I used a dremel-like rotary tool. Another hole/nut/bolt is needed to keep the whole thing in place as it moves up and down. If you are doing this you might find that the part were the pivot point has sheered off might need a little bit of filing so that it will not catch on its way down.
 

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Hi guys,
I am hoping someone can help me with my car. I bought a 2004 Colour Storm 1.6 FSI last year and my first problem that j encountered was going back to work one day and car stalled and gave up, towed it home and found 4 corroded wires on ECU. Sorted that out and then lost power with EML light on. Having read your posts here fellas, my car has no broken rod or flap lever, in fact, my flaps was stuck in the manifold which i had to remove and freed up. I replaced all injector seals as #1 was badly damaged. Anyhow, i replaced all, re built manifolds to engine and now it wont idle and no vacuum working on brake pedal, has anyone got any ideas on this new fault? I would really appreciate your help as i cannot get to enjoy my car at all. Thank you.
 
Hi guys,
I am hoping someone can help me with my car. I bought a 2004 Colour Storm 1.6 FSI last year and my first problem that j encountered was going back to work one day and car stalled and gave up, towed it home and found 4 corroded wires on ECU. Sorted that out and then lost power with EML light on. Having read your posts here fellas, my car has no broken rod or flap lever, in fact, my flaps was stuck in the manifold which i had to remove and freed up. I replaced all injector seals as #1 was badly damaged. Anyhow, i replaced all, re built manifolds to engine and now it wont idle and no vacuum working on brake pedal, has anyone got any ideas on this new fault? I would really appreciate your help as i cannot get to enjoy my car at all. Thank you.
Hi, sorry to hear the fsi is misbehaving after you've done quite alot of work to it. I'd recommend getting the fault codes and maybe starting there. Have you reconnected the vacuum pipes correctly is my first thought, but I'm no expert. Some of the folks on here are though. Good luck
 
so reading this my understanding is if you fix it all and put it back together correctly ect it should just be as simply as clearing the code with a decent code reader and that's it job done? or do you have to recalibrate it like others say, because I thought I was being clever by stripping mine for cleaning didn't have a light and It now seems I have a light what is rather annoying so striped it out again and I found out I broke it (heavy handed) so new one on it way and ill put it all back when I get time, so hopefully some one can answer my question
 
so reading this my understanding is if you fix it all and put it back together correctly ect it should just be as simply as clearing the code with a decent code reader and that's it job done? or do you have to recalibrate it like others say, because I thought I was being clever by stripping mine for cleaning didn't have a light and It now seems I have a light what is rather annoying so striped it out again and I found out I broke it (heavy handed) so new one on it way and ill put it all back when I get time, so hopefully some one can answer my question

Just repair it. Chances are that the new one will shear too probably. I used an allen key cut to length and it has been two years now still holding up.
 
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