1.6 FSI clutch replacement

I am girding my loins for replacing the clutch on our FSI. Has anyone been there before please? I can't find anything on this forum. I am no stranger to changing clutches (mostly Saab ones). I presume that most of the work goes on under the car and that one doesn't have to do anything silly like get the thermostat housing off to access the bellhousing bolts?

Any guidance much appreciated...
 
recently done a clutch on a TDI, should be similar.
I removed the front of the car to gain easier access, this took about 2 hours but I feel was well worth the effort, you end up with the slam panel (on a normal car) including the Rad and intercooler removed as a complete unit.
You then have good access to the gearbox and associated bell housing bolts.
I removed the inner drive shaft mounting bolts (6 off each side) and lifted the driveshaft out and away from the gearbox, no need to remove the drive shafts or split the bottom ball joints. Hold the shaft out of the way with some wire. The drivers side drive shaft mounting flange kind of interferes with the flywheel as the box comes away from the engine, so you have to turn the gearbox slightly towards the back of the car, it does clear, but only just. You can remove the drive shaft flange, but you first need to drain the oil from the box so I didn't both.
Clutch alignment was slightly strange as the hole in the flywheel is slightly larger than the inner spline dia of the spinner plate, meaning that a tradional clutch alignment tool does not work well. The different is around 0.016", so I turned a alignment tool to match the spinner plate splines and then rapped two turn of photocopier paper around the tool after it was pushed through the spinner plate. This made it a snug fit in the flywheel, once the cover was fitted and torqued up the tool was pulled out and the piece of paper removed with a thin screwdriver. The gearbox aligned spot on when refitting. There is a slave bolt that you fit in the gearbox 8mm by 35mm long, it holds the clutch release lever in position when refitting the box.
Is it an easy job - No, but it is doable on axle stands on your own with a good trolley jack.
BTW I fitted a LUK clutch kit, the same as the car was made with some 15 years ago and 280,000 miles ago, also check the pivot bolt and clutch release arm for signs of wear, mine needed a new are and bolt which is a main dealer parts only, but under £20 for the pair, don't forget the retaining spring which is sold seperatly (don't ask how I found this out)
Cheers,
Paul
 
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Thanks Depronman and Sarge for your help. The clutch isn't cheap at £164-odd, but at least there is no scope for cheap aftermarket rubbish. I really hope I don't have to take the front off - it seems like the transmission is smaller than the Saab ones I'm used to so am hopeful... The car is very difficult to drive at the moment - terrible judder, so I suspect I will need to get the flywheel machined as well.. Doing that on my Saab 7 years ago has made it really nice and smooth so I am hopeful.
 
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