Replace clutch due to pedal judder - DIY gearbox removal

Mophim

Member
Hello

Not sure if this will be of interest to anyone but we bought an X reg A2 1.4 petrol for our son who is 17 next month.
The car has a few issues, one of which is clutch pedal judder as well as unpleasant noises when the pedal is depressed.

So, I decided to change the clutch myself which means removing the gearbox.
I've not done this before but 'how hard could it be??' : )

So, with a handful of standard tools (decent socket set, a couple of screwdrivers, some ring spanners, one axel stand & a trolley jack plus a few other minor bits) I started today mid morning. By about 4:30, the gearbox was out & new clutch / pressure plate / release bearting were fitted.

I've not put the gearbox back yet (it started to rain) so I'll do this in the next couple of days. I'll also add some photos.

The only 'specialised' tools I needed (as in something less likely to be in your standard tool kit) were a 9mm ring spanner (or socket would have done) to undo the actual pressure plate bolts and an M8 spline socket for the drive shaft bolts. Other than that, it was more of less 10mm, 13mm, 16mm & 18mm nuts & bolts.

I followed this >> http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...ving_and_installing_gearbox/removing_gearbox/

But a few steps weren't necessary (at lest on the X reg petrol):
No need to remove wipers / scuttle or fresh air duct.
There was no cross brack to remove under the gear cables.
The speedo cable connector / position was different as was the reversing light switch.
Didn't have this to remove - Remove small cover plate -A- for flywheel behind right-hand flange shaft -arrows.
Pedulum support was different but still needed removal.

Didn't do any of this (didn't need to)

– Release coupling rod (left-side) -1- from anti-roll bar.
– Detach suspension link (left-side) from wheel bearing housing -arrow- → Rep. Gr.40.
– Remove wheel housing liner from wheel housing (left-side).
– Swivel wheel bearing housing outwards.
– Guide drive shaft (left-side) out between subframe and gearbox.
– Guide drive shaft into wheel housing and secure to suspension strut with wire or similar.

And obviously didn't have any of the VW brackets & tools to lower the gearbox.
Once all the bolts were out I supported it with the trolley jack, rotated it clockwise (looking from the N/S wheel arch) so the back, where the driveshafts fit, dropped down. I then wiggled it out with a thick foam cushion below so it didn't crash to the ground.

Release bearing was in bits & several of the pressure plate fingers were worn / bent. No good but nothing terminal.

I have to go now but will be back with photos & more details.
If i can do it, anyone can : )
 
I was going to say it's important to replace the release bearing guide sleeve as they wear and can contribute to a 'notchy' clutch pedal. Just checking the parts list however - http://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a2/a2/2001-248/1/141-141025/ and note the sleeve is part of the Audi release bearing kit so no need to order it separately. Just make sure the same applies if you buy aftermarket parts.

Nice write-up by the way.


Cheers Spike
 
Thanks Spike. I've been on this forum a while, mostly lurking, but your posts / replies to other posts are always gold. You've unwittingly helped me out on many occasions. Thanks very much : )

Here are some photos to accompany my post above. Not really photos of the process as the workshop manual page does this pretty well (although the illustrations omit the plethora of other stuff in the way ... I need smaller hands for the A2 engine bay!!)

This is the state of the old pressure plate & release bearing. I guess the bearing broke and this in turn messed up the fingers on the pressure plate.

IMG_4112 (Small).JPG

Below is the car on a stand with the gearbox out & the new clutch / pressure plate bolted in. What I would add to my above post - this is how I did it AT MY OWN RISK. It meant as just a guide. If you attempt this, please be really careful. Cars and gearboxes are heavy & hurt (a lot) if they fall on you! Don't do it if you're in any doubt!
The trolley jack under the engine was put there at the end as it started to rain. I had the engine supported from above with a length of angle iron and rope. I had to remove it to put the bonnet back on so everything didn't get wet. When i get back on with this I'll re-support from above.

IMG_4113 (Small).JPG

Below are the results of the destruction of the old release bearing. Lots of unpleasant gouges out of the release lever and some of the bell housing. Had to vacuum this out to remove the shards of metal. I've checked that nothing fouls now & all seems OK. I wonder if all this was the source of my problems ; )

IMG_4114 (Small).JPG

Finally, what I would class a 'non standard' tools. A 9mm ring spanner (or a 9mm socket, which i didn't have) . Needs to be multi 'edged' like this, rather than hexagonal as the bolts on the pressure plate were like this (I guess other plates might not have the same bolts?)
The second item is the M8 'spline' 1/2" socket for undoing the axle bolts on each side. If you don't have one, get one, as without it you'll just cause yourself a lot of aggravation (I bought an 8 piece set off ebay for around £20 - US Pro 8 Piece Spline set)

IMG_4116 (Small).JPG


I'll let you know how I get on with the reconstruction : )

Cheers
 
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Well, gearbox is back in with new clutch disc / pressure plate / release bearing fitted and all seems well : )

Tricky parts were jacking up / maneuvering the box back in - the diff has to be at about the 4 0-clock position, looking from the N/S wheel arch, then rotated anticlockwise once it's high enough to clear the rear subframe.
I did all this by placing the diff on a brick at the back then lifting the front of the gearbox onto the jack. Took a little jiggling to get it at a good balance point, then jacked it up.
The gearbox isn't too heavy - maybe 20kg (heavy enough but I was able to lift it with one hand)

Just make sure you align the O/S driveshaft as it won't go back in once the gearbox is bolted back in (I found this out the hard way : ) I just loosened the gearbox bolts by about 2cm then pulled it away a little & this was enough
The N/S driveshaft is fine & will bolt in afterwards.

It's actually not too bad of a job but it still takes a while, especially the way I did it on the floor (as opposed to a car lift) and with limited tools.
It takes so long because it's fiddly; small spaces with not much room to tighten nuts / bolts. Some took maybe 10 minutes with micro movements of spanners / sockets.

However, I found a few other minor issues that needed attention whilst scrabbling around and we're actually easier to fix whilst already there.

Overall, I'm quite pleased that I was able to work it all out & do it. And, as i said, if I can do it, anyone can.

Hopefully this helps / inspires someone else.

I'll just finish by reiterating this: This is all how I did it AT MY OWN RISK and definitely not how a garage would do it. It's meant as just a guide. If you attempt anything like this, please be really careful. Cars and gearboxes are heavy & hurt (a lot) if they fall on you! Don't do it if you're in any doubt!
 
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I recently replaced the clutch on my 1.4 TDI A2 after 280,000 miles. Looks like the same failure (release bearing)
However I traced the release bearing failure to the clutch release actuating X arm, the metal piece that the release bearing clips into. This pivots at one side on a ball headed bolt and the other side is pushed by the clutch release slave cylinder. The ball head on the bolt had totally worn away, which then wore through the X arm, the result being the bearing was being pushed on an angle instead of square. The sleeve that the bearing slides on will try to keep the bearing square, but eventually gives up under the extreme loads.
I replaced the X arm and ball headed bolt (Both Audi), bearing, bearing sleeve (Top hat), clutch cover and clutch spinner, all LUK. The clutch is very light and judder free. Interestingly the new spinner plate had 1.6mm to the rivets and the old spinner plate had 0.6mm left, so 1mm of clutch wear = 280,000 miles (as my car was driven)

Hers to the next 280,000 miles :)
Paul (Depronman)
 
Hi all, and especially @Mophim

I have just done this on my £900 folly, as I was at the end of the clutch travel. However, the old clutch and bearing did not appear very worn at all, so I think I may have a hydraulic issue, although the new clutch is much lighter, and a better take up position, but I am not convinced....

I agree with all comments made above, however I would like to add a couple more points.

It is not for the feint hearted. It appears simple, and in theory it is, but it is quite fiddly, and the A2 design makes it a bit more tricky just because there is not much room.

I used the Audi Workshop manual, which was quite detailed, but still seemed a little different than my 2001 1.4 AUA. Perhaps things change over time.
All the bits Mophim states NOT required to be done are correct. There is just the need to disconnect the items directly attached to the gearbox.

This includes 3 bolts securing the gearshift cable mountings (my car only had 2, but there is a third hole). Photo 4. 13mm bolts

I recommend a longer nose 9mm 12 point socket for the diaphram spring bolts (photo 3). I purchased a standard length one, but it rubbed the new (not old) diaphram and did not sit square. A longer nose will be better. The bolts are shown in photo 6, my old clutch.

Taking the gearbox out is not too much of an issue, except I had real problems getting it out until I undid the NS gearbox mounting bracket on the top of the gearbox (photo 2). Basically, from above you need to undo the 2 vertical bolts at the gearbox mount, and lower the combined gearbox/engine down about 2-3 inches (obvioulsy you will have the engine supported so it does not drop after you have disconnected the gearbox), and then remove the 2 bolts highlighted in the photo, and then the actual black pressed steel bracket which is the gearbox mount. Then the gearbox (well, the bracket) will not catch on the power-steering pipes and chassis rail. Without this, I could not tilt the gearbox and get it out.
Photo 5 shows the mount is shown from below in the red circle, back in original position but without the gearbox, so you can identify it on your car.

Installation is the reverse. Get the gearbox on, get it up, but not all the way, attach the black bracket and bolt it on, and raise up to the mounting bolts. You cannot adjust the bracket bolts once the gearbox is at the correct full height.

I must say, installing the gearbox is really difficult. I needed another bloke to take the weight of the box using a hoist rope, whilst from underneath, I rotated it (and got it past the various pipes etc) and got it lined up correctly. 2 days of wasted single man effort were replaced with 10 min of 2 man effort!!!

The lifting eye on the top of the gearbox is very useful here.

Also to help you scope out what you need to do, Photo 1 is the bolt plan of the gearbox, with some notes below.

Bolt
1 This was missing on my car, and is difficult to locate as it is under the pipework on the end of the engine. Feel is the best method, after you have tied away the gear linkage stuff as much as you can. Not sure what the stud is about. Nothing seems to need to connect to it. 18mm
2 These are the 2 starter motor bolts, all good (but of course, you cannot disconnect the top one until the gear linkage is all disconnected). 16mm I think.....
3 An important bolt, as it has the locating lug also. I had a M12x 65mm in mine (which I expect came from 1 above), but replaced it with a new 80mm bolt. This then went through the gearbox and engine, so I need to ensure it is protected from corrosion. 18mm
4 These are awkward little blighters! If you leave the exhaust in place (which you can) you cannot get these out, but you can loosen them enough to disconnect. (Photo 7). The manual suggests to strop the flexible exhaust link to give you more room, which I did, but you still cannot get them out. 16mm
The problem here is at installation, where the small protrusion catches on the driveshaft (and anything else), so you just need to somehow keep them from sticking out. In the photo you will also see the thin plate gasket. This also can create havoc around these screws.
5 This is another important bolt, and you cannot access it easily until you have disconnected the OS driveshaft. Then it is easy, once you find it. 18mm

Photo 8 is my gearbox out, (ES GX2) with an extra mounting hole that does not appear in the manual, nor is there a hole on the engine side!

Driveshafts are 6 bolts with M8 splines, and are not easy to access. You need the car raised on stands or a lift, as you need to rotate the wheels to get to all the bolts. I used a short 1/4" handle.

I also changed the gearbox oil while it was out. Easy and cheap, and probably worthwhile as it was very black. 1.9l came out, and 1.9l went in.

I don't plan on doing this again anytime soon.............

Matt
 

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