Rubber mat refurb

andrewparkeruk

A2OC Donor
Is anyone familiar with the ¿plastic? material from which genuine "rubber" mats (8Z2 061 501 041) are made, and what adhesives can be used to effect a repair/refurbishment?
I have a spare front passenger mat and plan on cutting out the heel-worn section from the driver's mat, cutting a similar section from the not worn passenger mat, then welding/bonding the two. I presume I could support the join using something like duct tape. I fancy getting it right first time.

Thank you, Andrew
 
I don't think you'll find any edge-to-edge glue strong enough, but this is rubber, so any rubber solution, eg Evo-Stik ought to do the trick. You will need to support it behind though, so duct tape or similar is probably your best bet.
 
I'm going to buy a LHD set from Germany where they are still available new and cut it to the same shape for our driver side . They aren't too expensive. Under 40 pound if I recall
 
I'm going to buy a LHD set from Germany where they are still available new and cut it to the same shape for our driver side . They aren't too expensive. Under 40 pound if I recall

Hi Murdo, I bought the passenger footwell trim from the left hand Drive version, i.e.: comes without the useless bulge by our axecelerator peddle, gives you more room for your feet and would save you cutting your mat down!
Bought it new from eBay and a uk seller, if you're interested I could possibly find a part number'
Cheers Jeff
 
I am also looking to do the same, I posted a 'wanted' add for a front passenger rubber mat, but never got any response

I was going to use industrial cynoacrolate (super glue) and kicker to edge joint the rubber material, then back it with rubber sheet 1mm thick, again using super glue

Anyone got a passenger side rubber mat that they no longer need ???
 
Hi Murdo, I bought the passenger footwell trim from the left hand Drive version, i.e.: comes without the useless bulge by our axecelerator peddle, gives you more room for your feet and would save you cutting your mat down!
Bought it new from eBay and a uk seller, if you're interested I could possibly find a part number'
Cheers Jeff

Hi mate. Yes I've got the LHD version sill trim as well. One of my first mods back in 2009. I believe it'll still need a bit of trimming to fit.
 
If I am able to get passenger sill trim from LHD, plus remove left foot rest as @timmus has done, does that mean a LHD passenger carpet and rubber mat will all fit?

Thanks, Andrew
 
We stick ‘o’ rings with industrial superglue from RS components with good results on water filters & pumps when replacements cannot be found.Keep the cut square on both mat & donor then leave for 24 hours to cure completely.
I’ll look up the part no tomorrow if you like.

Keith.
 
I use the stuff from tool station and there kicker, works a treat and around £2 for a 50ml bottle, comes in thin (like water), medium (like milk) and thick (like ketchup), I normally use thin or medium
if you spray the kicker on to one side and apply the cyno to the other side there is a much quicker bond, once it starts to bond apply a little more kicker to accelerate the bonding process.
I am going to be doing the same fix shortly. I think the trick is to have a very clean cut on both sides and a joint that is a good fit so needs no gap filling
I intend to back the repair with some inner tube to add strength as I doubt that the edge to edge joint will give sufficient strength alone.
Cheers
Paul
 
For bonding low surface energy plastics like the stuff used for rubber mats, I'd invest in a polyolefin primer such as Loctite 770. It ain't cheap (you'll be doing well to get a 10g bottle for less than £20) but it makes a world of difference to the bonding abilities of cyanoacrylate adhesives. It raises the surface energy of the plastic by microscopically etching it. It looks like water and you just brush it on with the brush that's built into the lid of the bottle. As soon as it's dry (usually only a matter of seconds) you can bond it with cyano. It works really well when gluing the cut ends of 'O' rings back together to make custom-sized 'rings.

There are also special grades of cyanoacrylate for bonding low energy plastics, but it's worth trying standard grades first as they are so much cheaper.

Paul's advice is very sound. The 'kicker' works by evaporating very fast, causing the surface it's applied to to cool very rapidly, attracting airborne moisture to condense on the surface as microscopic droplets. Cyano cures readily in the presence of this moisture (which is why it sticks human skin together so well :) ), so you get a faster bond. It works best on humid days!
 
Paul @depronman I'm sure you know that tile fitters make their cuts by overlapping tiles, then cutting through both. Obviously our mats are more flexible than floor tiles, and the moulded squares will cause the mat to flex differently... One day, when I am feeling brave, I will put a new blade in that Stanley knife and cut :oops:
Andrew
 
Going back to post #6, the comment made by @Jeffers66 - just what on earth is that "useless bulge" for? I took the sill trim off so that I could get the carpet out, expecting to find some piece of the aluminium body behind said bulge. But - nothing. Just carpet and the rest of the main sill trim, running up to the firewall/bulkhead.

It makes the footwell feel really narrow and if you've got cruise, deprives you of the perfect resting place for your right foot. The only reason for its existence that I can think of is NCAP crash rating compliance? But that is a pure guess. If I can find a replacement trim from a LHD car then I'll use that, but google says they're a bit thin on the ground at the moment.
 
Going back to post #6, the comment made by @Jeffers66 - just what on earth is that "useless bulge" for? I took the sill trim off so that I could get the carpet out, expecting to find some piece of the aluminium body behind said bulge. But - nothing. Just carpet and the rest of the main sill trim, running up to the firewall/bulkhead.

It makes the footwell feel really narrow and if you've got cruise, deprives you of the perfect resting place for your right foot. The only reason for its existence that I can think of is NCAP crash rating compliance? But that is a pure guess. If I can find a replacement trim from a LHD car then I'll use that, but google says they're a bit thin on the ground at the moment.

Hello @TFG bumping this thread - and continuing the topic swerve - Would you happen to have the part number of the LHD trim? Also do you (or anyone else) know what this does in terms of reducing the requirement to cut down a LHD OE rubber mat?

Just looking at this post - It appears that if you swap out this trim, then the only cutting needed is a bit off the "top" edge where the floor rises to meet the pedals, plus the clutch foot rest area on the front left corner? Is that it?

Thanks.
 
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Hello @TFG bumping this thread - and continuing the topic swerve - Would you happen to have the part number of the LHD trim? Also do you (or anyone else) know what this does in terms of reducing the requirement to cut down a LHD OE rubber mat?

Just looking at this post - It appears that if you swap out this trim, then the only cutting needed is a bit off the "top" edge where the floor rises to meet the pedals, plus the clutch foot rest area on the front left corner? Is that it?

Thanks.
The part number is a curious one 8Z0867458A I would expect the LHD passenger (right) trim to start with 8Z1 ...(and have no additional bulge), yet it starts with 8Z0 ... indicating it fits LHD or RHD. Almost as though Audi anticipated some RHD owners might prefer no bulge, and as it fits RHD let's make it 8Z0! Fair enough the RHD trim starts with 8Z2 ... and I assume with bulge. Extra part number bits needed to match colour trim. Something not sitting right with me, maybe missing something.


Found one on eBay.de, but why bother for low price (+shipping?) of new from respected German website.


Hope I'm not muddying the waters.

Andy
 
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