BiggDogg
A2OC Donor
This maybe premature, but I think I've fixed my V157.
I'd been having the check engine lamp on most of the time and a nasty shudder when turning off for a few months, but otherwise the car was driving fine.
The ATL engine has a different arrangement for actuating the flap which is all electronic. Basically this flap is used for preventing the shudder when turning off the engine - it starves it of air until it stops. There is some EGR functionality too, I believe, which has also caused the warning lamp to light on the otorway occasionally too.
VCDS Lite read:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Having read various posts on the subject I thought I'd be forking out £200 for a OEM replacement (part no. 045128063D).
Note that many parts people call it a "throttle body".
See no.11 here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...s_with_engine_code_letters_atl_exploded_view/
The unit is near the coolant expansion tank near the back of the engine bay on the nearside, the right as you look at it.
Before ordering a new one, I thought I'd strip it down and see if I could see anything wrong inside.
Long story short:
It was full of engine oil which collects in the bottom and stops the electric motor working properly. After stripping it down as far as possible, cleaning all the oil out and refitting it, running for 3 days: NO MORE WARNING LAMP AND TURNING OFF AND ON IS SMOOOOOOTH. I think the oil has all come from the turbo, I'm not worried by this as it seems all the TDIs I've owned have always had a fair bit of oil in the intake, post turbo, and the oil consumption is close to zero after 86000 miles. However, it seems that with the 2.3bar peak boost pressure of the ATL engine, and the design of the flap motor unit, that oil mist is going to get inside the thing over a period of time.
Long story long:
Naturally I've taken some photos, this is how you can do the same as me if you fancy giving it a go, but don't blame me if yours turns out differently, my experience is based on doing this just once:
You will need: Large flat bade screwdriver, 5mm hex (Allen) key/bit, T20 and T10 Torx bits, lots of clean rag or kitchen towel, parafin or other solvent for oil.
1. Disconnect the large air pipe which comes from the intercooler by lifting the little raised section in the C-shaped spring clip and pulling the pipe out.
2. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing it together first, and while squeezing, push the latch and change from squeezing the connector together to tugging and wiggling it gently apart. Practice first on one for a different connector which you can actually see if you've not released one before.
3. Remove 3 hex bolts, unit can now be withdrawn.
4. Clean up the case before going further, the next bit may be very messy.
5. Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the cover plate on, it will come loose but will remain held along the diagonal section at the bottom. Expect a little oil to come out.
6. Don't force it apart, jiggle it around and work it, eventually the 2 electrical clips inside will release their grip but you need to BE GENTLE, looking at the design I thinking forcing it will make the clips bite deeper and you may end up breaking it. Maybe I just got lucky.
7. The electronics is all in the lid, and is encapsulated in some plastic compound. The 2 copper connections to the motor assembly should be OK if you haven't forced things and bent them.
8. Clean out all the oil you can get to from both halves, but don't scrub. You need to get the motor assembly out as it is at the bottom where most oil collects. To get the motor out, pull off the cap holding the largest gear on its shaft, then remove the two small T10 torx screws then withdraw the motor and large gear as one. There is a wavy spring washer behind the motor.
9. I tried to get the motor pinion gear off, in an attempt to strip the motor down and clean the commutator properly, but gave up when the pinion wouldn't budge.
10. Instead I swilled the motor out in a jar of meths. This probably wasn't a good idea as the oil didn't really dissolve like I had hoped, falling out of the vents in the end of the motor in globules instead. If I'd have had any paraffin I'd have used that. I shook the meths out of the motor, dried it with an air line then connected it to 12V to check it worked (NB make sure the thing is dry and don't fire to any flammable solvent with electrical sparks!).
11. Reassembly was easy, just a reversal of the stripdown. The pipe pushes in, no need to lift the C-spring clip again.
I wasn't really expecting it to work as the engine lamp lit upon starting up, but there was no shudder when I turned off, and repeating the process, still no shudder - I hadn't cleared the fault code, and was getting late so went to bed.
The next day the lamp did not come back, there was no shudder and having been on 5 long trips now, driven maybe 150 miles, there has been no shudder and no warning lamp.
Please add to this thread if you fix yours the same way, I am guessing that I am going to have to repeat this process in the future at some point, hopefully not for 20,000 miles at least.
I'd been having the check engine lamp on most of the time and a nasty shudder when turning off for a few months, but otherwise the car was driving fine.
The ATL engine has a different arrangement for actuating the flap which is all electronic. Basically this flap is used for preventing the shudder when turning off the engine - it starves it of air until it stops. There is some EGR functionality too, I believe, which has also caused the warning lamp to light on the otorway occasionally too.
VCDS Lite read:
19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Having read various posts on the subject I thought I'd be forking out £200 for a OEM replacement (part no. 045128063D).
Note that many parts people call it a "throttle body".
See no.11 here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2...s_with_engine_code_letters_atl_exploded_view/
The unit is near the coolant expansion tank near the back of the engine bay on the nearside, the right as you look at it.
Before ordering a new one, I thought I'd strip it down and see if I could see anything wrong inside.
Long story short:
It was full of engine oil which collects in the bottom and stops the electric motor working properly. After stripping it down as far as possible, cleaning all the oil out and refitting it, running for 3 days: NO MORE WARNING LAMP AND TURNING OFF AND ON IS SMOOOOOOTH. I think the oil has all come from the turbo, I'm not worried by this as it seems all the TDIs I've owned have always had a fair bit of oil in the intake, post turbo, and the oil consumption is close to zero after 86000 miles. However, it seems that with the 2.3bar peak boost pressure of the ATL engine, and the design of the flap motor unit, that oil mist is going to get inside the thing over a period of time.
Long story long:
Naturally I've taken some photos, this is how you can do the same as me if you fancy giving it a go, but don't blame me if yours turns out differently, my experience is based on doing this just once:
You will need: Large flat bade screwdriver, 5mm hex (Allen) key/bit, T20 and T10 Torx bits, lots of clean rag or kitchen towel, parafin or other solvent for oil.
1. Disconnect the large air pipe which comes from the intercooler by lifting the little raised section in the C-shaped spring clip and pulling the pipe out.
2. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing it together first, and while squeezing, push the latch and change from squeezing the connector together to tugging and wiggling it gently apart. Practice first on one for a different connector which you can actually see if you've not released one before.
3. Remove 3 hex bolts, unit can now be withdrawn.
4. Clean up the case before going further, the next bit may be very messy.
5. Remove the 4 Torx screws holding the cover plate on, it will come loose but will remain held along the diagonal section at the bottom. Expect a little oil to come out.
6. Don't force it apart, jiggle it around and work it, eventually the 2 electrical clips inside will release their grip but you need to BE GENTLE, looking at the design I thinking forcing it will make the clips bite deeper and you may end up breaking it. Maybe I just got lucky.
7. The electronics is all in the lid, and is encapsulated in some plastic compound. The 2 copper connections to the motor assembly should be OK if you haven't forced things and bent them.
8. Clean out all the oil you can get to from both halves, but don't scrub. You need to get the motor assembly out as it is at the bottom where most oil collects. To get the motor out, pull off the cap holding the largest gear on its shaft, then remove the two small T10 torx screws then withdraw the motor and large gear as one. There is a wavy spring washer behind the motor.
9. I tried to get the motor pinion gear off, in an attempt to strip the motor down and clean the commutator properly, but gave up when the pinion wouldn't budge.
10. Instead I swilled the motor out in a jar of meths. This probably wasn't a good idea as the oil didn't really dissolve like I had hoped, falling out of the vents in the end of the motor in globules instead. If I'd have had any paraffin I'd have used that. I shook the meths out of the motor, dried it with an air line then connected it to 12V to check it worked (NB make sure the thing is dry and don't fire to any flammable solvent with electrical sparks!).
11. Reassembly was easy, just a reversal of the stripdown. The pipe pushes in, no need to lift the C-spring clip again.
I wasn't really expecting it to work as the engine lamp lit upon starting up, but there was no shudder when I turned off, and repeating the process, still no shudder - I hadn't cleared the fault code, and was getting late so went to bed.
The next day the lamp did not come back, there was no shudder and having been on 5 long trips now, driven maybe 150 miles, there has been no shudder and no warning lamp.
Please add to this thread if you fix yours the same way, I am guessing that I am going to have to repeat this process in the future at some point, hopefully not for 20,000 miles at least.