TDI 75 tandem pump replacement.

Gary - G

Gary - G

Member
Hi all,
Just fitting a new fuel \ vacuum pump.

Can anyone advise if there is a priming procedure please?

Also, do you have to carry out throttle body alignment after disconnection and clean up etc?

The battery was disconnected before I started work.

Thanks.

G.
 
Its self priming so just a matter of trying to start the engine to raise fuel pressure till she fires up..
Im sure its just the engine stop flap and shuts off the airflow to the engine to stop overrun or something like that and not the same as a petrol engine throttle body ..

Regards gary
 
Would anybody have the instruction manual for fitting an AMF tandem pump? I've looked online and in my own pdf manual but all links I have found lead to blank pages.

I know there are only 4 screws but I'm looking for tightening sequence and torques. Is any liquid gasket used and is the gasket just a gasket or gasket plus an O ring?

Thanks
 
Just had a look at my pdf manual, seems straightforward, basically detach hoses, undo 4 bolts, no tightening sequence, no liquid gasket mentioned, just 'renew gaskets' and the top 2 bolts tighten to 20Nm, bottom 2 bolts 10Nm
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When I was looking for a gasket for mine there seemed to be a few options - there were two different pump manufacturers I think and the gasket is different between them. That was for my BHC - could be different for yours.
 
Gaskets are different between different pump models AND manufacturers. Some are metal crush gaskets some individual "o" rings. Order from your pump model and manufacturer. Do not use any liquid gasket and make sure everything is squeaky clean BEFORE taking apart and clean again before reassembly. Personally I found leaking gaskets are the start of the end for the pump. You make a mess in the engine bay with the spilt diesel that rapidly eats all rubber it has come in contact with and the wiring isn't too happy with diesel baths either. New pump straight forward to fit, make sure all faces are clean, rotate the drive dog to line up with the drive from the cam and gently push into cam keeping it square. It is easy to drop the 4 attaching bolts so use plenty of clean rags to catch anything you drop, locate the 4 finger tight then torque. Refit the fuel hose and make sure it is tight and refit vacuum hose again making sure tight. Now reconnect everything else you moved out of the way. CHARGE YOUR BATTERY. Once fully charged and all electrical devices off, crank the engine over for 5-10 seconds THEN LET IT SIT FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES. Rinse and repeat until engine fires back into life. Let it idle and check again for any fuel or oil leaks. Remember there is no electric fuel pump on the car so it has to be sucked by the tandem pump all the way, be patient. If still not running after about 8-10 tries, let it rest for a few hours and put the battery back on charge.
 
I did have a fuel leak, that did eat everything beneath it.
I rebuilt the pump about two years ago but I have been chasing oil leaks since and for several years before. My pump has a crush washer that I believe is leaking oil. I’ve fixed many oil leaks and hope this is the last.
 
Just make sure the surfaces are completely clean and dry before fitting the pump and new gasket, do the 4 bolts finger tight then torque up to recommended value. You probably already know put a lot of rags to catch the spilt diesel and more afterwards to prevent the extended treasure hunt the dropped bolt can produce. Good luck.
 
Gary - G said:
Hi all,
Just fitting a new fuel \ vacuum pump.

Can anyone advise if there is a priming procedure please?

Also, do you have to carry out throttle body alignment after disconnection and clean up etc?

The battery was disconnected before I started work.

Thanks.

G.
Click to expand...
Hi Gary,

How did find that vacuum pump is not good or it was related with fuel pump ?Have checked vaccum that goes to n75 valve?
 
audifan said:
Just make sure the surfaces are completely clean and dry before fitting the pump and new gasket, do the 4 bolts finger tight then torque up to recommended value. You probably already know put a lot of rags to catch the spilt diesel and more afterwards to prevent the extended treasure hunt the dropped bolt can produce. Good luck.
Click to expand...
see my question? sorry...
 
@donp38
These tandem pumps work hard and are the only fuel pump on the diesels. Wear takes place and once over about 130K there could be enough wear to cause issues. There are only 2 reputable makes in my opinion for the tandem pump, all the others are "pattern parts" of various quality. LUK and Bosch. The LUK is a direct replacement for all the diesels, the Bosch is only a direct fit on the AMF a spacer is needed for the BHC and ATL engines to clear the ASV.

The LUK pump has an inherent issue with the press fitting of the vacuum port fitting and over time it becomes loose and produces unreliable vacuum. The Bosch is a superior design and construction.

As for the gasket ONLY fit the one with the blue silicone tracts as the others WILL LEAK.

So short answer would I recommend changing the pump........YES
 
ok, so Sparkplugs say now obsolete..

I am sure someone posted a stockist recently on here...
Can't find it!!
 
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