choke stuck like symptoms

Hi
I done an oil change and plugs etc this week and fixed a oil leak in the back oil separator and from that I have had on tick over idle going from 1000 rpm rising to 2000 rpm and going up and down constant. It still runs ok wen driving its just at idle its as if a choke is jamming on and off again. If anyone has any knowledge as to what this could be it would help me out. Its the 1600 FSI
 
Did you remove the throttle body ? if so it will need re calibrating via vag-com other than that it sounds like an air leak? cheers mike
 
No I never took the throttle body off. Just the oil separator at back off the fsi engine. There is a corrugated pipe going into inlet manifold at back of egr from the oil separator , I will take this off and inspect it for cracks or leaks. I am lost what to try after that. Thanks.
 
Checked for leaks with none found.
I'm stumped. There is a small amount of oil on bottom of the corrugated pipe the leads upto the inlet behind the egr but very minimal. I've tried to seal it.
It seams ok wen cold but wen heat gets in it that's wen the revs build to 2000 then back down to 1000. I'm stumped at this one! HELP NEEDED.
 
It's probably a good idea to close down one of the 2 threads you've started asking the same question, otherwise you'll only get repeat suggestions.

Did you have this problem before you took apart the oil seperator?
If not i'd suggest you re-visit that job and perhaps reverse whatever you did.
What plugs have you used?

Another good thing would be to have the car scanned for all known fault codes and see if anything becomes obvious.

Cheers
Jeff
 
Had it scanned and it's threw up 3 codes which I think are all related to this fault. They are
17439. Intake manifold tuning valve(n136) set point not reach.
17912. Idle rpm higher than expected
16891. Air intake Leak detected.
I have tried the reverse job I done on it with no fix. I tried replacing the intake manifold valve (n136). Still no fix. Any ideas?
 
The one you need to tackle is the Air intake leak detected.

Your looking for anywhere that air can leak into the inlet manifold after the Mass Airflow Sensor. Typical suspects are hoses and pipes, check all for any signs of splitting of damage however the crankcase also runs a vacuum, for example, if you remove the oil cap on the top of the engine your idle will go all-over as air is leaking through the crankcase and oil seperator and ultimately into the inlet manifold.

Listen for airleaks, they often sound like a hiss if your unfamiliar. You can also spray brake cleaner or WD40 around hoses and pipes and listen to the engine note - any airleak that is sprayed over will make the engine rise in RPM as it burns the brake cleaner / WD40 but try to keep away from the exhaust manifold, you dont want to start a fire!!

the EGR pipe can also cause airleaks if cracked, though this is often accompanied by an exhaust leak that sounds a bit like a tractor.

Hope this helps,

Nick
 
I've been looking for leaks but not with the wd40 or carb cleaner. And friend showed me his leak on a pipe he had repaired and it was tiny. I could easily miss wee hairline cracks like that. I'll try ur method and report back with what I find.
 
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