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Thread: Gear linkage adjustment

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Holt, North Norfolk
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    Thanks. Am I right in imagining that the oil I'm spraying down onto it, needs to somehow make its way back up the shaft and into where the ball bearings are? I don't know what the system looks like or where they are; I'm just thinking it must be difficult to get enough lubricant on them.

    I've got some of this that I use for my bicycle, or should I go get some 3-in-1?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the spiel

    "Finish Line Cross Country wet lubricant is ideal for keeping your components in check.This wet-style lube will do the job whatever the weather, keeping your drivetrain in perfect working order. The synthetic ingredients are all super-durable and protect and lubricate for long periods of time. The water repelling polymers make it highly waterproof, giving you no excuse for staying in rather than getting out in the rain and for tackling rainy commutes.The synthetic oils used are non-toxic and biodegradable so they won't damage your bike's vital organs. Take your pick from 2oz or 4oz bottles or the easy to apply 8oz aerosol."

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    St Annes on the Sea
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    assuming that this is a 'thin oil' as it needs to get down the shaft between the shaft and the tower case then it sounds like it will do the job

    It should follow the WD40 that as already found its way to the bearing

    maybe worth making a little 'wall' around the shaft on top of the tower casing (clean it first) out of silicon sealer, only needs to be about 2mm tall. Once it is set fill it with the thin oil, as the shaft it rotated/moved up and down the oil will naturally penetrate, helped also by any heat that is there and the engine vibration. Assuming the thin oil disappears then you know it is going into the gearbox, then replace it with some engine oil and if that goes in try some gearbox oil.
    My theory is if you can get some oil onto the bearing then it will sort itself out

    Cheers,
    Paul (Depronman)
    1.4 TDI 2001 287,347 miles and still going strong

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Holt, North Norfolk
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    Quote Originally Posted by depronman View Post
    maybe worth making a little 'wall' around the shaft on top of the tower casing (clean it first) out of silicon sealer, only needs to be about 2mm tall. Once it is set fill it with the thin oil, as the shaft it rotated/moved up and down the oil will naturally penetrate, helped also by any heat that is there and the engine vibration. Assuming the thin oil disappears then you know it is going into the gearbox, then replace it with some engine oil and if that goes in try some gearbox oil.
    My theory is if you can get some oil onto the bearing then it will sort itself out
    Right, without sounding completely obtuse, you mean the part beneath where the selector tower pushes down or the top part of the tower just below the selector 'arm/lever' if that layman's description makes any sense! See image below:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. Users that liked this post:

    JIGSAW (13-03-2017)

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    St Annes on the Sea
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    yes make the mote on top of the tower casting were you have the red square, fill it with thin oil and over a couple of days it should hopefully all disappear into the gearbox and lubricate the bearing on the way. Then use gradually thicker oils working up to gear oil. I suspect at some point the thickness of the oil will prevent it being pulled into the gear box, but the thicker oil you can get in there the better.

    I would also remove the mote once it as done its job, otherwise it will potentially catch rain water and migrate that into the gearbox via the bearing which will not be good

    Cheers,
    Paul (Depronman)
    1.4 TDI 2001 287,347 miles and still going strong

  6. Users that liked this post:

    DarkHorse (13-03-2017)

  7. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    wolverhampton west midlands UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin 540 View Post
    Video on you tube on how to, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo

    Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk
    A2 Silver 2003 1.4 TDi 75 bhp Sport, OSS working, illuminated vanity mirrors, Sports Seats Black Leather interior, Drivers Information System, Electric windows front and rear, False boot liner, chorus radio / 6 cd player in boot, Bench rear Seat.
    Lumber support. Private Plate.

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    DarkHorse (21-03-2017)

  9. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Holt, North Norfolk
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    Just to update I have been trying to get oil into the selector housing via depronman's guide, but struggled to apply enough silicon to create a moat.

    So far I'm noticing the most troublesome change is 2nd to 3rd, especially when under load. Example: accelerating out of a roundabout/junction whilst at approx 2,400-2,600rpm almost always causes the gear to get stuck right before it needs to engage. If I put back into neutral, then press clutch again, it goes into third fine.

  10. #37
    Adjusted my linkage now and all gears are nice and easy to go in now :-)

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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    Birchall (23-03-2017)

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Ryton, T&W, UK
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    I've been getting an intermittent problem like this changing from 4th to 3rd as well - sometimes fine, other times just feels solid like there's no gate to go into . Have cleaned all the rubber debris from inside the gaiter, adjusted the selector cables as per the videos, greased everything and poured a little gear oil onto the selector tower shaft then worked it up and down to see if it gets down the bearing. Still just as intermittent - no rhyme or reason.

    I have however noticed that the counterweight on top of the selector tower shaft is a bit wobbly - it's screwed down tight but the teeth on the inner ring that link to the teeth on the top of the shaft seem to be a bit worn and I can wobble it from side to side.

    Is that degree of play on the counterweight normal?

    If not, I'm wondering if it moving about slightly when the cars in motion could explain why the gear change issue is so random?

    Grasping at straws at this point maybe!

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Ryton, T&W, UK
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    7
    Update & Fix:

    Nursing it with a slow change from fourth to third was helping but problem was still there (usually at most inconvenient time).

    Found a new counterweight for 30 so bit the bullet and gave it a try. It’s still a loose fit but not nearly as much ‘slop’ as the old one.

    Put everything back together and problem solved. Gear change from fourth to third now back to what it should be - guess the mating teeth on the counterweight had worn slightly after 140 K.

    Knowing that now could probably have got the same effect by wrapping a few layers of plumbing PTFE tape around the shift tower spindle teeth to take out some of the counterweight slop. Possible quick fix though - worth a shot for anyone with the same problem.

  14. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Holt, North Norfolk
    Posts
    336
    Interesting.

    In the end I had WOM replace the selector tower bearings and adjust linkage. Changing gears is much much better.

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