Frontend knocking sound

Olerype

Member
Hello,

got the 1.4TDI ATL version and struggle with noise from the frontend, in particular with low speed while turning. Got slightly worse with low profile 17" rims.

Replaced top strut bushings, links and bushings for stabilizer but still there is some noise left. Paid the local Audi dealership to investigate but they can not find any root cause.

Any ideas? Wishbones? Driveshafts?
 
CV joints on my high millage A2 TDI (282K miles at the point of changing the CV joint) were causing some mechanical noise when going over bumps and when on off throttle
replaced all 4 for under £60 delivered and about 4 hours work
 
My 2005-model has 135'km; thats about 85' miles.

Where did you get all 4 joints for 60 quid? Rexbo.eu has complete driveshafts from Triscan at about 450Euro; quite expensive and never heard about Triscan before.
 
Hello,

got the 1.4TDI ATL version and struggle with noise from the frontend, in particular with low speed while turning. Got slightly worse with low profile 17" rims.

Replaced top strut bushings, links and bushings for stabilizer but still there is some noise left. Paid the local Audi dealership to investigate but they can not find any root cause.

Any ideas? Wishbones? Driveshafts?


Try the following,

Make a fist and tap the rear corners firmly of the bonnet with the side of your fist, if this replicates the sound then you have a cheap and easy fix. (replace the plastic locators)

It may not be the cause in your case but those symptoms do sound like it MIGHT be.

Steve B
 
Sounds like you are having a laugh hehe?! But will anyway try it just to rule out. But it appears from the (left!) driving position that knocking comes from a lower position than the top locators of the bonnet. Noise is also much more distinct than I can imagine a loose bonnet can make.
 
Seriously, it really is worth spending a few seconds to eliminate this as the cause.

It has caught a few people out like that and the sound doesn't always appear to come from the actual source of the problem.

I too would be surprised if this is the cause but it is so easy to check.

To quote Sherlock Holmes "when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?"
Or something like that.


Steve B
 
the CV joint are 'JR' brand, they are available from uk ebay the joint come with new CV Boots an clips, C clips, grease etc all in all a quality kit of parts. You need a pair of large circlip pliers to remove the inner CV Joints the outer CV Joint is removed with a sharp hammer blow on the CV joint hitting it of the end of the drive shaft.

You may find that delivery Norway is a little more expensive, if the seller does not want to ship to Norway then let me know and I will see what I can get shipping from the UK to Norway for, if agreeable I can buy them and ship to Norway for you at cost to me
Happy to help

Cheers,
 
Steve makes a valid point regards knocking bonnet corners. Definitely worth investigating, as I've repaired myself.

The wishbone lower balljoint can fail. I replaced mine (thread on here), but at 145k miles or thereabouts the balljoints were surprisingly tight. It was the rubber dust sleeve that fails.

When the strut top mounts were replaced (usual culprit), are the coil springs still making noise on turning? Only mention, as it's the top bearings that dry out causing the springs to create friction as the car turns with the usual creak and twang associated with this issue. You can compress springs to ensure they're seated properly.

Double check tie-rods too. Normally overlooked, but worth a look.
 
could it also be the drop links? Mine have worn for the second time (now at 177k)

I have Myle links to be fitted at the next service
 
Maybe using the wrong terms, so here are some photos from what I replaced;

IMG_5537.JPG

IMG_5538.JPG

IMG_5539.JPG

IMG_5540.JPG
 
Thanks for many good and generous tips and advise! The parts we discuss, are those easy to replace?
Did you replace the anti roll bar rubbers. There is a known issue with the anti roll bar bushes becoming worn and the anti roll bar can then move and cause it to knock.

Sorry if this has has already been done, but we need to eliminate the main causes one by one.

Steve B
 
Yes, presume antiroll is the same as the stabilizer; the second photo in the previous post you see the new rubbers
 
Sorry I missed that picture.

i would recommend taking it to a specialist. Knocking from suspension is always a worry.

By specialist i mean someone who knows A2s very well.
I don't mean an Audi dealer (as you have tried) because it could be 10 years or so since they last worked on them regularly.

Do you have an Audi specialist in your area?

steve B
 
Got the same on my 1.4 tdi 75hp , it looks like the driveshaft nuts are loose on both sides, & before you ask both were replaced with genuine Audi components (hubs & nuts).

These are going to be getting attention today.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re torqued to 120 nm as they were loose got about 1/4 of a turn , will order some new ones tomorrow
But rather worrying, does anyone have a link to the Audi technical info for this as they were definitely torqued up properly to 120 nm .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have some front end knocking, I took the bonnet off, mostly quiet now :) Thank you for saving me replacing loads of suspension bits.

Cheers Andy
 
Thank you very much for feedback. Have not been able to check further, except for bonnet, and right-side upper fixing is making noise. Still find it hard to believe that this is the origin, but will purchase new fixings for the bonnet. Does anyone have the partnumber easily at hand? (I will also check 7zap..)

KP115; very interesting; I have the original driveshafts, and will check the bolts for correct torque. However, I just have one knock at the time when I drive over a bump, dump and similiar in speeds below 40km\t (30 miles\h). The noise can come from either sides. No noise when accelerating.

Edit: Also thinking of replacing the lower balljoints as that should be cheap and easy
 
@kp115

There are 2 types of hub nut:

1. A hex nut (standard 6 sided)
2. A Bi-Hex nut (12 point).

The newer 12 point type are the only one's that should be used.
Do not use grease or threadlock on the threads.
Always use a new nut if loosened (they are one-time use only).

It is recommended that threadlock be used on the splines of the driveshaft.

You are correct with your torque settings (120Nm).

Good practice might be to use an old nut, and tighten, to draw the driveshaft splines into the hub.
Once drawn into place, remove and fit a new 12-point nut and torque to recommended settings.

Cheers
Jeff
 
Last edited:
@kp115

There are 2 types of hub nut:

1. A hex nut (standard 6 sided)
2. A Bi-Hex nut (12 point).

The newer 12 point type are the only one's that should be used.
Do not use grease or threadlock on the threads.
Always use a new nut if loosened (they are one-time use only).

It is recommended that threadlock be used on the splines of the driveshaft.

You are correct with your torque settings (120Nm).

Good practice might be to use an old nut, and tighten, to draw the driveshaft splines into the hub.
Once drawn into place, remove and fit a new 12-point nut and torque to recommended settings.

Cheers
Jeff

good tip Jeff, I always use the old nut to 'seat' the driveshaft, I torque it to 150Nm, then remove and replace with the new 12 point nut torqued to 120Nm, never hada problem with the nut coming loose
 
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