1.6fsi Starts then cuts out

Teresa

Social Secretary
European-Union
Having had a few lovely days driving around in Mabel with her EML off courtesy of Jeff, she threw a new one at me this evening.

I drove to the supermarket and she was lovely. Then went for supermarket to a house about 5 minutes away to pick something up. Got back in the car and she started fine, but then cut out. All lights came on as normal, but just wouldn't hold the revs, even if I pumped the pedal. Tried about 5 times. Had a look on the forum and discovered that it could be an immobiliser issue. Got out, locked and unlocked. Tried again. The same. Was thinking I was going to have to call the RAC and on about the 20th attempt, she was fine.

I got home and turned her off and tried to restart. Back to cutting out again. Got the other key (had been using the second one) and she started fine. Aha! Immobiliser issue. Turned it off and tried to restart to prove my theory - back to cutting out. Tried again and it started but now clearly not happy. EML back on and whiffed a bit (could be starter motor)

Have just had a plough through the forum and it could be lots of things by the look of it. I'm going to get a VAG com I think to see what it it throwing up now. I don't need her for a couple of weeks, so have time.

Will keep you posted
 
I would check the coil pack wiring properly, mine did this with my wife in it.

Found a couple of different breaks and shorts, once fixed problem sorted.

It can all look fine from above but worth pulling coils and checking it all out.


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Not sure it's the same but had same issue with missus car and it was to do with the valve that opens the inlet flaps, it's a black valve and throws up a code 17439 or something like that I'd it fails to open it stalls straight after start up, if it is something like that check all pipes to left of inlet manifold and the black valve on top is moving after start up hope this helps

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Not sure it's the same but had same issue with missus car and it was to do with the valve that opens the inlet flaps, it's a black valve and throws up a code 17439 or something like that I'd it fails to open it stalls straight after start up, if it is something like that check all pipes to left of inlet manifold and the black valve on top is moving after start up hope this helps

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This was my next thought as you say check vacuum pipes if ok could be the N316 valve but a VCDS scan should help


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If the Flap Control Valve fails, the engine will only be allowed to operate in homogeneous charge mode. I dont think homogeneous charge mode will result in a stalled engine.
 
If the Flap Control Valve fails, the engine will only be allowed to operate in homogeneous charge mode. I dont think homogeneous charge mode will result in a stalled engine.

It would always stall mine in reverse uphill which was odd and try and stall at other low speed times


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Is it a case of the engine starting normally but then the revs drop to zero? Mine started doing it but only ever after a short run, normally to the supermarket or having filled up with petrol. I found that feathering the throttle on starting would hold the revs and then the engine was fine.
I haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet, unsure whether or not it's a throttle issue but it's worthwhile recalibrating it before doing anything more time consuming/expensive. Disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes (make sure that you have the radio code) before leaving the key turned in the ignition for 10-15 minutes. Start the engine and brace for a lumpy start, I found that it dramatically improved drivability and it hasn't stalled out since doing that - 3 months (?).
 
Is it a case of the engine starting normally but then the revs drop to zero? Mine started doing it but only ever after a short run, normally to the supermarket or having filled up with petrol. I found that feathering the throttle on starting would hold the revs and then the engine was fine.
I haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet, unsure whether or not it's a throttle issue but it's worthwhile recalibrating it before doing anything more time consuming/expensive. Disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes (make sure that you have the radio code) before leaving the key turned in the ignition for 10-15 minutes. Start the engine and brace for a lumpy start, I found that it dramatically improved drivability and it hasn't stalled out since doing that - 3 months (?).
Thank you. Yes, it was like that, but it was as if the accelerator pedal wasn't connected - it didn't matter what I did to it, it wouldn't hold the revs. That was what made me thing it was an immobiliser issue as I was using the spare key. I know that I have a central locking issue as it cycles when I put the key in the ignition. The time it worked was when I got out. Locked the door manually, then locked and unlocked it.

I thought I'd sussed it when I got it home and was then fine with the main key. But then the second time I tried it with that one, it went back to starting and stopping again. She could just have been fed up at that point though.

I'll have a play about at lunchtime
 
Having thought about it Teresa my FSI has always hated doing short trips often going from home to the petrol station in the morning - once filled it would start and stop again when leaving the petrol station. I also find if I start the car and then only let it run a couple of mins (usually moving the car off the drive) when I go to start the car it will take ages to start - almost as if it's flooded. I find if it gets to the flooded state I hold full throttle and it starts (quickly taking foot off !)
I would suggest you could try checking the plugs are the correct ones -Bosch multi pronged electrode plugs. Often they get Ngk plugs at the wrong length and plug type.
Hope that helps. Mike
 
Having thought about it Teresa my FSI has always hated doing short trips often going from home to the petrol station in the morning - once filled it would start and stop again when leaving the petrol station. I also find if I start the car and then only let it run a couple of mins (usually moving the car off the drive) when I go to start the car it will take ages to start - almost as if it's flooded. I find if it gets to the flooded state I hold full throttle and it starts (quickly taking foot off !)
I would suggest you could try checking the plugs are the correct ones -Bosch multi pronged electrode plugs. Often they get Ngk plugs at the wrong length and plug type.
Hope that helps. Mike
Thanks Mike - yes I did wonder about that as she does hate small journeys. It was the starting perfectly, but then the accelerator pedal not having any effect that was making me think it was the immobiliser. It was literally firing up fine first time, but then dying that was the weird bit. I took her to work this morning and she was fine first thing. I drove about a bit so she was warm and then stopped and started her a few times at work but it was all fine. I was using the main key then. Then tried with the second key and it was also fine.

So at the moment, it all seems fine. I suspect the EML could well be as a result of trying to start her so many times last night. I'll take her for a long run after work to get her really warm and then try again when I get home.

I'll keep you all posted. Thank you for all the help
 
Hi - just to update, I'm 90% certain that this is an immobiliser issue related to the spare key.

The EML light went off the next day so I think it was just related to the starter motor overheating due to me trying to start it when it first happened. Over the past few days I have tried to recreate it and only ever had a problem when I am using the spare key. Even more strangely, it doesn't play up if I use the spare key to manually open the door - only if I open the car via the button and use it.

I'm sure there is an electrical solution somewhere, but I'm not too fussed as for now I just need to remember to use the main key wherever possible and if I use the spare one, I should unlock the car manually.

Thank you for all the advice and support. Love and hugs Teresa
 
Forgive me if this has been done; I haven't read the complete thread in detail.

This might not achieve anything T, but perhaps a battery disconnection and reset will help. This should reset the system and as a result you will need to sync both keys again too; which might yield a fix if it is a technological gremlin.

Cheers,

Darren
 
Hi,

the engine immobiliser and the remote button lock and unlock are two separate systems.
When the car battery is disconnected or runs flat, the code sequence syncronisation for the remote lock and unlock will be lost and you won't be table to unlock from the button until the key is re-synchronised.
The immobiliser will never be lost unless there is a serious fault in the car's electronics (or someone reprograms it to clear out the keys).

When you turn the ignition on, the car will read the code from the immobiliser chip in the key fob. It takes several seconds to do this so the car allows you to fire the engine up straight away. If you have started the engine before the key's code has been read and the code is invalid, the ignition will be turned off and the engine will stop. The starter motor isn't disabled, but turning over the engine is pointless as it won't fire.
When the key's code is being read, the yellow key symbol will be shown in the dashboard. This should go out when the key is read and everything is OK. If the key stays illuminated or particularly if it flashes, the car doesn't recognise the code or there was a problem reading the code and the engine will not fire up.

The code is only ever read once when turning on the ignition so if there is a problem reading the code, but the key should be fine, you have to turn off the ignition and then turn it back on again to get the code to be read again. On my TT, very rarely it fails to read the code from my key. I just turn off and try again if I see the key flashing. I normally wait to see if the light goes out before trying to start the engine.

If you see the flashing orange key then you have an immobiliser problem. If the key light goes out but you still can't start the engine then the problem is something else.

regards

Andrew
 
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