Unusual Clicking plus Locks & Windows not working - advice please

GemmaS

Member
Hi everyone,

I am new on here as I only brought my 2001 A2 SE a few weeks ago - so please be kind to me :)

I am loving driving the car, but there are a few little niggles I was hoping to get a bit of advice on please. I am a little embarrassed to say that I have no knowledge of the complex workings of a car, so when something goes wrong I am completely lost on what to do. I have already done a bit of searching on other threads, put could not find something that had all the problems I have and, as I am not sure if they are related, thought I would start a new thread.

First of all, the previous owner had mentioned that in the past the battery has gone flat after a few days if not used - I haven't experienced this yet but I think I have driven it most days. There is also a constant clicking/ticking noise - I say constant as you can hear it even when the car is not running (even when the car has been left overnight I can hear it before I start the engine the next day). It's pretty quiet and a little bit hard to tell where it is coming from - but I'd say it seems like its probably coming from around the area of the stereo/possibly glove box on passenger side - I thought it may be something to do with the heaters? Also, since I have had it the back doors don't lock with the fob - not a huge problem and I have been locking them manually when needed.

This morning the central locking would not work at all from the key fob - so I had to use the key in the lock to lock/unlock the front doors. I know that this may simply be that the battery is dead in the fob so I need to look at replacing that BUT the electric windows also stopped working - so it's making me wonder if the two are connected? Or in fact, if all of the things that I have mentioned are connected?

Given what the previous owner said, could it be that I need to replace the battery? Or does it sound like something I am going to need to get an expert to look into?

The car drove absolutely fine this morning (although I only drove a few miles) but I am now a bit worried about driving it again in case something is happening with the electrics and it breaks down on me! Of all of the faults, the one that I really want to resolve quickest is the electric windows - I have really bad visibility pulling off of my driveway so I also rely on listening out for approaching traffic - which I was unable to do this morning because I could not open the windows!

I hope I have provided enough information for people to be able to offer me some suggestions but please let me know if I need to provide any extra info!

Thanks so much for reading and trying to help.
 
Hi Gemma,

Welcome to a helpful and friendly club... you have certainly come to the right place for knowledge and advice. A member will hopefully be along shortly who may be able to diagnose your problem.

Cheers
Dave.:)
 
Hi GemmaS,
This sounds like a classic fault on the A2 of the failure of the CCCU (comfort convenience control module)
Which is located under the carpet on the passenger side under an alloy triangular plate, these can be replaced or repaired by a member here (Timmus)
or secondhand via members here.

Hope this helps
Kp 115



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi everyone,

I am new on here as I only brought my 2001 A2 SE a few weeks ago - so please be kind to me :)

I am loving driving the car, but there are a few little niggles I was hoping to get a bit of advice on please. I am a little embarrassed to say that I have no knowledge of the complex workings of a car, so when something goes wrong I am completely lost on what to do. I have already done a bit of searching on other threads, put could not find something that had all the problems I have and, as I am not sure if they are related, thought I would start a new thread.

First of all, the previous owner had mentioned that in the past the battery has gone flat after a few days if not used - I haven't experienced this yet but I think I have driven it most days. There is also a constant clicking/ticking noise - I say constant as you can hear it even when the car is not running (even when the car has been left overnight I can hear it before I start the engine the next day). It's pretty quiet and a little bit hard to tell where it is coming from - but I'd say it seems like its probably coming from around the area of the stereo/possibly glove box on passenger side - I thought it may be something to do with the heaters? Also, since I have had it the back doors don't lock with the fob - not a huge problem and I have been locking them manually when needed.

This morning the central locking would not work at all from the key fob - so I had to use the key in the lock to lock/unlock the front doors. I know that this may simply be that the battery is dead in the fob so I need to look at replacing that BUT the electric windows also stopped working - so it's making me wonder if the two are connected? Or in fact, if all of the things that I have mentioned are connected?

Given what the previous owner said, could it be that I need to replace the battery? Or does it sound like something I am going to need to get an expert to look into?

The car drove absolutely fine this morning (although I only drove a few miles) but I am now a bit worried about driving it again in case something is happening with the electrics and it breaks down on me! Of all of the faults, the one that I really want to resolve quickest is the electric windows - I have really bad visibility pulling off of my driveway so I also rely on listening out for approaching traffic - which I was unable to do this morning because I could not open the windows!

I hope I have provided enough information for people to be able to offer me some suggestions but please let me know if I need to provide any extra info!

Thanks so much for reading and trying to help.

Hi,

if the car battery is OK and everything else is fine with the car, the rule I normally work to is that the battery should be OK for 2 weeks. As long as the car is used more often then that, the car battery should always be OK. Leaving the car longer then that I would normally have the battery on a charger to keep it topped up.

If the car is starting OK after a few days then the battery itself is probably OK but a fault with one of the electronic modules in the car can cause the battery to run down quicker than it should.
From what you have described, there may be an issue with one or possibly more components.

Behind the radio and heater controls is the relay unit for the direct indicators. This is where the "click" sound comes from when the indicators are flashing. This unit can fail due to old age and normally the failure state is that the indicators no-longer flash - they are on all the time. Sometimes however it can also fail in a way that makes the relay switch on and off very rapidly, causing a "buzzing" sound. If this is happening when the engine is switched off then this would cause a drain on the battery and flatten it quicker than normal. I would check the operation of both the direction indicator (the stalk on the steering wheel) and also the hazard button as well as they are separately controlled. If they both appear to work OK then it still may be a fault with the indicator relay so cannot be ruled out completely. One consideration however is that if you have air conditioning and so the digital heater controls with the temperature readout, the airflow flaps are controlled by motors which are also behind the radio so you might be hearing that instead. The heater controls are only on when the ignition is on so won't flatten the battery when the car is left standing.

The other consideration, which fits some of your symptoms is the "CCCU" (sometimes called "CCU"), the Convenience Central Control Unit. This is a computer module in the car (under the floor on the front passenger side) which controls a selection of things inside the interior and exterior of the car. These include, remote door lock / unlock, electric windows, interior lights, alarm hazard indicator flash etc. Some of the very early models of this unit have a component which fails when it gets old that causes it to "go haywire". This can cause the windows to stop working, the remote door unlock to stop and the unit to drain the battery quickly when the car isn't being driven. If you are able, I would suggest a "reset" first by disconnecting the car battery for a short while and then reconnecting it. After reconnecting you will need to "re pair" the buttons on the keys for the remote unlock as they synchronisation is lost when the power is removed but this may get your windows working again. If this unit is faulty, it can be repaired or replaced by a second had unit. A replacement would need to be programmed to work in your car with your keys.

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?26691-Service-Offered-CCCU-Replacement

I would suggest trying the battery disconnection and re connection first to see what that does but also enlist the help of a nearby member with the VAG-COM diagnostics tool as this will report on any faults recorded in the computer modules.

regards

Andrew
 
Got all the classic symptoms of a failing cccu as stated in the second post. I would start with the battery removal for 30 mins if that doesn't clear the problem then the cccu would be my next on the list to look at
As already pointed out member. Timmus is the gent to sort out you cccu
Cheers
 
Thank you so much for all of the feedback - I will have a look into the suggestions and let you know how I get on. If it is the CCCU is that expensive? Also is it 'safe' to drive the car?
 
Last edited:
My car had exactly the same symptoms & stoped when I replaced the cccu with a secondhand one of the correct type, I may be corrected but it is safe to drive just a little inconvenient as you just have to use the key to unlock the drivers door , then place in ignition & turn on other doors will then unlock.

Kp 115


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi,

if the car battery is OK and everything else is fine with the car, the rule I normally work to is that the battery should be OK for 2 weeks. As long as the car is used more often then that, the car battery should always be OK. Leaving the car longer then that I would normally have the battery on a charger to keep it topped up.

If the car is starting OK after a few days then the battery itself is probably OK but a fault with one of the electronic modules in the car can cause the battery to run down quicker than it should.
From what you have described, there may be an issue with one or possibly more components.

Behind the radio and heater controls is the relay unit for the direct indicators. This is where the "click" sound comes from when the indicators are flashing. This unit can fail due to old age and normally the failure state is that the indicators no-longer flash - they are on all the time. Sometimes however it can also fail in a way that makes the relay switch on and off very rapidly, causing a "buzzing" sound. If this is happening when the engine is switched off then this would cause a drain on the battery and flatten it quicker than normal. I would check the operation of both the direction indicator (the stalk on the steering wheel) and also the hazard button as well as they are separately controlled. If they both appear to work OK then it still may be a fault with the indicator relay so cannot be ruled out completely. One consideration however is that if you have air conditioning and so the digital heater controls with the temperature readout, the airflow flaps are controlled by motors which are also behind the radio so you might be hearing that instead. The heater controls are only on when the ignition is on so won't flatten the battery when the car is left standing.

The other consideration, which fits some of your symptoms is the "CCCU" (sometimes called "CCU"), the Convenience Central Control Unit. This is a computer module in the car (under the floor on the front passenger side) which controls a selection of things inside the interior and exterior of the car. These include, remote door lock / unlock, electric windows, interior lights, alarm hazard indicator flash etc. Some of the very early models of this unit have a component which fails when it gets old that causes it to "go haywire". This can cause the windows to stop working, the remote door unlock to stop and the unit to drain the battery quickly when the car isn't being driven. If you are able, I would suggest a "reset" first by disconnecting the car battery for a short while and then reconnecting it. After reconnecting you will need to "re pair" the buttons on the keys for the remote unlock as they synchronisation is lost when the power is removed but this may get your windows working again. If this unit is faulty, it can be repaired or replaced by a second had unit. A replacement would need to be programmed to work in your car with your keys.

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?26691-Service-Offered-CCCU-Replacement

I would suggest trying the battery disconnection and re connection first to see what that does but also enlist the help of a nearby member with the VAG-COM diagnostics tool as this will report on any faults recorded in the computer modules.

regards

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your detailed reply. I went out in the car earlier and noticed that it isn't making the clicking noise anymore! Very odd as it's been doing it every day for the last few weeks and I remember it doing it at the weekend. Anyway, I still checked the indicators and warning lights as you suggested and all working fine.

In terms of the trying to disconnect the battery and then 're-paring' to the key - I think I read elsewhere that to -re-pair' you just put the key in ignition, turn to first setting, press unlock and then when you take it out - it should then be 're-paired' - is that correct? Or is it more complicated than that? I only have 1 key and I know I have read certain things about programming keys where you need to have 2, so just wanted to check before I disconnect the battery! Sorry for all the questions - I did say I know nothing about how cars work and its really nice knowing there are people out there willing to try and help.
 
My car had exactly the same symptoms & stoped when I replaced the cccu with a secondhand one of the correct type, I may be corrected but it is safe to drive just a little inconvenient as you just have to use the key to unlock the drivers door , then place in ignition & turn on other doors will then unlock.

Kp 115


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kp 115 - Thanks for your reply. Just out of interest how much was it to replace it? I was hoping it was ok to drive - I can put up the inconvenience until I manage to get it sorted.
 
Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your detailed reply. I went out in the car earlier and noticed that it isn't making the clicking noise anymore! Very odd as it's been doing it every day for the last few weeks and I remember it doing it at the weekend. Anyway, I still checked the indicators and warning lights as you suggested and all working fine.

In terms of the trying to disconnect the battery and then 're-paring' to the key - I think I read elsewhere that to -re-pair' you just put the key in ignition, turn to first setting, press unlock and then when you take it out - it should then be 're-paired' - is that correct? Or is it more complicated than that? I only have 1 key and I know I have read certain things about programming keys where you need to have 2, so just wanted to check before I disconnect the battery! Sorry for all the questions - I did say I know nothing about how cars work and its really nice knowing there are people out there willing to try and help.

Hi,

Yes, when the battery is disconnected (or goes flat), the code sync between the remote transmitter is lost. The CCCU still "knows" about the key, but the codes need to be resynchronised before the buttons will work again. As you have described, it needs to be resynchronised by putting the key in the ignition, starting up, taking the key out and then pressing the buttons.

If the CCCU is replaced by a different (e.g. second hand) unit, two things will need to be one. One is to program the CCCU with the correct settings for your car. If the car that the unit came from has different equipment (e.g. number of electric windows, A/C) then the settings will need to be adjusted.
The second thing to do is the program the key(s) into the replacement CCCU as without this it will be expecting the keys from the car in which it was previously fitted rather than your key(s). This is different than the re-syncing method above as the unit need to know about the individual keys first. Both these require a diagnostic cable to do but are easy.

It is safe to drive the car with a CCCU which is playing up as it doesn't control anything that's safety critical (such as engine, brakes etc). The worst thing is probably the annoyance and inconvenience of a flat battery.

Regards

Andrew
 
Hi Gemma S,
I bought one from eBay which only lasted a couple of months so I got one from
A2steve that had a couple of key bodies included for a reasonable price compared with eBay prices.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Gemma if it's your convenience module (cccu) where ru located ?...I ask this cos Tom (timmus) is on an A2 tour and u may be able to get him to call in on you to sort your problems out ...


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