New owner (hopefully!)

ca2n

A2OC Donor
Hello all,

I have been browsing the forum with great interest and admiration of the passion the forum members have on the A2! It's time to get my own then I suppose!

I should be picking up a 2002 TDI 75 next week. There's not much history on the car and I've already made a list of things that need attention based on what I saw during viewing. My main concern, though, is the timing belt and whether it would survive the 60-mile journey home. As I understand it, I should be able to at least get a visible inspection on the condition of the belt by removing the top belt cover. The belt cover, according to this picture, is secured by two bolts. What tools would I need to have to remove the belt cover? And are there any visual clues I should watch out for on the belt once I get to see it?

Wish me luck! When (If) I get back, I will post pictures as per forum guidelines. :D Cheers.

Yat
 
Best of luck! Those two points marked in the picture of the cover are not bolts, They're just spring clips and are easy to do my hand.
Regards, M
 
The odds are that if the belt has lasted this long it will survive the 60 miles home, but it's always an unknown risk.
 
Got it home safely (plus a trip to Leicester and back to have a look at an FSI Sport!)

As promised :)

IMG_20170819_190231.jpg IMG_20170819_165226.jpgIMG_20170819_164532.jpgIMG_20170819_164508.jpgIMG_20170819_164516.jpg

Needs some work done to it:
- OSS "crunches" at initial opening and closing (from fully closed and fully opened, respectively)
- Water temperature gauge needle didn't ever reach 90 (temperature sender?)
- Gear change a bit of a guess work (will maybe try a linkage reset first)
- Top part of DIS wearing out
- Fuel filler flap switch stuck
- Alloys and tyres
- Aftermarket Sony headunit. Might need to source the original headunit (Concert II?).
- Some other little niggles

Other than that, it drove really nicely. A bit stiff on the suspension side (not complaining!).

Will definitely be hanging around the servicing and repairs thread for a while. Any advice appreciated!

Yat
 
Locos like a great car and best of luck in the new ownership!

I would bet money its the thermostat which is causing temp issues! All mine have been the same and every time it was thermostat.
 
Thanks, Paul. Might as well deal with both (thermostat and temperature sender) while sorting out the timing belt and water pump. Saves some anti freeze loss.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
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The car is looking stunning in this excellent pic. Well i like it..............:) I would agree,it's most probably the thermostat that needs replacing. It's a strange one as almost every owner who buys one of these seams to have exactly the same problem.Glad it's in good hands now. Welcome to the forum.
 
Thanks! Looking to flex my photography muscles again as well, hoping the model behaves itself! :)

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Looks lovely :D Welcome to A2OC, that's a nice spec you have there.

I work in Coventry so if you see a Silver Tdi Flashing or waving it's likely me :)
 
You've certainly flexed your muscles well in that pick. Please take some more when time allows. :)

Will try my best :D

Looks lovely :D Welcome to A2OC, that's a nice spec you have there.

I work in Coventry so if you see a Silver Tdi Flashing or waving it's likely me :)

Thanks Muska. I have to say I haven't seen many A2s in Coventry. Will be on the lookout.

Tried playing around with the fuel flap switch this morning. The switching mechanism itself (behind all the plastic bits) works just fine. I guess it's the actual plastics in the switch which fail over time. I wonder if anyone has found a more robust solution seeing that a new switch might just fail again with time?

IMG_20170820_083203.jpg
 
You might check driver's door microswitch first. Does it show on the dash when you open the door every time? If your switch seems to be ok mechanically, I don't think plastic wear would affect it. For some reason Audi has decided that you must open the door before it will allow (enable) the switch to operate. If CCU doesn't know the door is open, (symbol illuminated on the dash), it will not allow the switch to operate.


Boris
 
You might check driver's door microswitch first. Does it show on the dash when you open the door every time? If your switch seems to be ok mechanically, I don't think plastic wear would affect it. For some reason Audi has decided that you must open the door before it will allow (enable) the switch to operate. If CCU doesn't know the door is open, (symbol illuminated on the dash), it will not allow the switch to operate.

Thanks for the input, Boris.

The switching mechanism (the red one in the photo) works just fine when connected to the wiring (i.e. the filler flap opens when the switch is pressed, door ajar). Therefore, the door microswitch should be working just fine (that and door lights come on as well). However, I am not sure how the switch is actuated between the button with the fuel symbol through the switch housing to the actual metal switch. I'm guessing that a (plastic?) bit has broken off. I don't have a fully working switch to dissect and compare! :D
IMG_20170820_162152.jpg

(Perhaps it can upgraded to a touch-sensitive switch...:confused:)

Yat
 
Thanks for the input, Boris.

The switching mechanism (the red one in the photo) works just fine when connected to the wiring (i.e. the filler flap opens when the switch is pressed, door ajar). Therefore, the door microswitch should be working just fine (that and door lights come on as well). However, I am not sure how the switch is actuated between the button with the fuel symbol through the switch housing to the actual metal switch. I'm guessing that a (plastic?) bit has broken off. I don't have a fully working switch to dissect and compare! :D
View attachment 30670

(Perhaps it can upgraded to a touch-sensitive switch...:confused:)

Yat

There is a small white nylon / plastic part missing. That has a couple of legs that connect the black switch face to the microswitch in the red part.

They are around £25 new and should last for years (they are only pressed once every 400 miles or so after all!

Steve B
 
There is a small white nylon / plastic part missing. That has a couple of legs that connect the black switch face to the microswitch in the red part.

They are around £25 new and should last for years (they are only pressed once every 400 miles or so after all!

Steve B

Thanks, Steve. A new one it is then! :D

Yat
 
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