OBD tool for Throttle Body Adaptation

Apologies if this has been covered in a thread before, I have two questions:

1. Is a throttle body adaptation essential once one has removed and reinstalled the throttle body/,manifold, or can the car be made to run well enough to get to the nearest specialist?

2. If I have to adapt the throttle, what is the cheapest, best tool capable of performing this? I am looking at a foxwell one on Gendan's site but any recommendations gratefully received.

I am having to go through some major ups killing/up-tooling to change my fuel injectors...


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I don't believe it requires recalibrated unless cleaned (so closed and open states result in more/less air than previously stored in the ECU). I use VAG-COM and in my experience once recalibrated it takes an extended period without the battery attached (12 hours) for the ECU to try to re-learn the new values. If you have not cleaned or replaced the unit you should be good to go.
 
Apologies if this has been covered in a thread before, I have two questions:

1. Is a throttle body adaptation essential once one has removed and reinstalled the throttle body/,manifold, or can the car be made to run well enough to get to the nearest specialist?

2. If I have to adapt the throttle, what is the cheapest, best tool capable of performing this? I am looking at a foxwell one on Gendan's site but any recommendations gratefully received.

I am having to go through some major ups killing/up-tooling to change my fuel injectors...


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I have not tried this, but I have heard of people unplugging the ECU (or disconnecting the battery for 15 mins might have the same effect) then reconnecting and switching the ignition on without starting, Leaving it on for several minutes (worth listening to the throttle body, it should be clicking and whirring if it is recalibrating). Then switching off for 15 minutes. then restarting.

But VCDS is the only real way to do it properly, but the above might work (a no cost option, my favourite type of option)

Steve B
 
it does not need a tool to do it, it will recalibrate itself *provided* the readiness requirements are fulfilled (the hardest one of those for me to fulfil is engine temp >20C). The readiness is described here in more detail: https://wiki.a2-freun.de/wiki/index.php/Readiness_Code, even if it is in German.

After a clean you should not need to recalibrate yourself, the throttle body ought to do it. It should run anyway and yes, a 15 minute battery disconnect will also reset it (but only if the engine is warm enough).

- Bret
 
it does not need a tool to do it, it will recalibrate itself *provided* the readiness requirements are fulfilled (the hardest one of those for me to fulfil is engine temp >20C). The readiness is described here in more detail: https://wiki.a2-freun.de/wiki/index.php/Readiness_Code, even if it is in German.

After a clean you should not need to recalibrate yourself, the throttle body ought to do it. It should run anyway and yes, a 15 minute battery disconnect will also reset it (but only if the engine is warm enough).

- Bret

Thanks for those really helpful replies. I was gearing up for major expenditure on a proper diagnostic tool (on top of the FSI injector tool and the injector itself).

I think after learning this I'll do the mechanicals, clear the codes and see where that gets me before spanking another £160 on tools. The object of the exercise is to save money after all and I'm already in it for at least £200 for injector and tool!

Thanks again for the info chaps.


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I have not tried this, but I have heard of people unplugging the ECU (or disconnecting the battery for 15 mins might have the same effect) then reconnecting and switching the ignition on without starting, Leaving it on for several minutes (worth listening to the throttle body, it should be clicking and whirring if it is recalibrating). Then switching off for 15 minutes. then restarting.
But VCDS is the only real way to do it properly, but the above might work (a no cost option, my favourite type of option)
Steve B
I can vouch for that: 15 minutes with the battery disconnected and then 15 (from memory) with the key set to ignition ON. I tried starting immediately after that and... no change?! Started her the next morning and it was as rough as a badger's proverbial behind but settled and had improved throttle response thereafter. So I'd say that Steve is correct and that it requires switching off for a further 15.
 
Thanks all for the really helpful replies. I did the injector change today and apart from stressing about not having new 'O' rings for the injector extensions (A2 Cars only changed them last year) it all went absolutely to plan. Engine temp was 24 degrees in this balmy weather so it all recalibrated itself perfectly before starting nicely (after I had reconnected the engine speed sensor!).

I have a love hate relationship with the FSI: with new injector and clutch it's a dream to drive but I hate the fiddliness of it.


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