1.2Tdi Clutch Actuator with Hall Sensor

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I have recently changed the clutch actuator on my A2 1.2Tdi from one with a potentiometer-type sensor to one with a Hall-effect sensor, as fitted to the gear actuator. The Hall-effect sensor is contactless and therefore should last considerably longer than the original sensor used (all our 1.2Tdi's have had their clutch actuator changed); it is also a VAG part. The sensor part of the actuator was converted by German forum member Mankmil: https://a2-freun.de/forum/profile/20923-mankmil

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The sensor is mounted on the rear of the housing, the original is on the front. An adaptor is provided to connect to the loom. The cost is substantially less than a new actuator. Set-up is exactly the same as original.

RAB
 
Hi Alex,

Not sure yet as I haven't driven it yet(!) although I am not expecting anything different, apart from greater reliability.

RAB
 
The smart car has a robotic clutch actuator and uses a hall-effect sensor.
I'm sure the only problem I've ever heard with it was because of an oddity of the housing manufacture where if the magnets became separated too much the field was insufficient to hold the lower magnet in place and it dropped into the housing! It was only notable because you had to drill holes in the selector housing to poke it back into place.
Not really relevant here except to say that the only thing that lets down the hall sensor is apparently poor design (450) Hopefully It's been improved in the 451/452


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Yes, the other problem with the Smart is that changes are somewhat tardy because of the electric shifter (like the Up! auto). By comparison, 1.2Tdi changes are almost instant, quicker than can be changed manually. It would be interesting to compare reliability.

RAB
 
Yes, the other problem with the Smart is that changes are somewhat tardy because of the electric shifter (like the Up! auto). By comparison, 1.2Tdi changes are almost instant, quicker than can be changed manually. It would be interesting to compare reliability.

RAB

Tardy, yes. It can be adapted to be a bit quicker. I had one with paddleshift and the change lag was very minimal - but it took a smart specialist to do it right. It was brilliant fun! :)


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Hello RAB,

Very interesting, did you made the modification of the clutch actuator yourself?
Or Mankmil is making a business out of it?
In other word, how to make this upgrade for non german speaking ;-)

On my previous Lupo I had a weird issue with the clutch actuator (few kilometers after a successful basic settings), and was causing the "self destructing gear box" symptom (clutch not completely open, gear actuator push the rod, rod is ejected, and so on. Lots of noise, and clanging, like if the gear box is broken, or will broke next second). After changing the clutch actuator, the car was working perfectly (until destroyed in an accident). Maybe in that case the clutch actuator fault is not the electronic but the (hydraulic) impossibility to keep the clutch open ?
 
You can correspond with Mankmil in English. If your problem with the actuator was solved by changing it, the most likely cause is the potentiometer, not the hydraulics, since the cylinder is just that with the hydraulic fluid flow controlled by the hydraulic station.

RAB
 
Same in my case, one year passed after hall-sensor upgrade and it's still working as it should.
 
My "brand new" car failed within 24h after buying it 1800km away from my country. Had to tow it home on flatbed from neighboring country (Last 130km).
Reason was Hall sensor. It was installed facing down, somehow water and oil got inside sensor. Electricity and water don't mix well, i was stranded etc...
Did cut it open and made "temporary" repairs to drive around since nobody sells this sensor. Someday need to contact Mankmil and ask if he has some to sell...
So anyway, make sure it sits on top when installed in car.
Water inside it:
 
My "brand new" car failed within 24h after buying it 1800km away from my country. Had to tow it home on flatbed from neighboring country (Last 130km).
Reason was Hall sensor. It was installed facing down, somehow water and oil got inside sensor. Electricity and water don't mix well, i was stranded etc...
Did cut it open and made "temporary" repairs to drive around since nobody sells this sensor. Someday need to contact Mankmil and ask if he has some to sell...
So anyway, make sure it sits on top when installed in car.
Water inside it:
The sensor is a VW/Audi part - at least it is on mine. The sensor can be mounted either way but the correct way is with the breather facing downwards. Mankmil usually handles the sensor end only, so presumably you assembled the actuator?

RAB
 
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It was already installed when i bought the car. Failed the new hall sensor and that is probably done by Mankmil, don't know who assambled it, and don't know who installed it facing downwards.
My digging resulted in sensor: AB Elektronik 91020 series
This is not VAG part as far as i know, and if it is available with VAG part number i would be happy to know it. My guess is Mankmil bought direct from manufacturer and had minimum order to buy.
 
Yes, that's the same sensor that Mankmil uses. The breather, made of orange rubber, should face downwards, otherwise water/oil will not be expelled. After replacement the old connector should face downwards, so the sensor unit has to be rotated through 180 deg. If there is no breather, the sensor will fill, whatever way it faces. Looks like the mistake is that of the installer.

RAB
 
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Sorry for reviving this thread:).

Maybe this helps someone today(orings and the "electronic part"): https://www.ebay.com/itm/233431994580

@RAB can you provide the parts number for the modification you are taking about? the Hall-effect sensor?
I cannot find the tutorial from Mankmil. Is there a post detailing this change?

I am preparing for the worst:). The car is getting older and I want to keep it. I see some hydraulic oil dripping underneath but I have very little oil loss and basic settings works great (had a clutch replacement too).
 
Maybe this helps someone today(orings and the "electronic part"): https://www.ebay.com/itm/233431994580

@RAB can you provide the parts number for the modification you are taking about? the Hall-effect sensor?
I cannot find the tutorial from Mankmil. Is there a post detailing this change?

I am preparing for the worst:). The car is getting older and I want to keep it. I see some hydraulic oil dripping underneath but I have very little oil loss and basic settings works great (had a clutch replacement too).
The Ebay part indicated does not include the Hall sensor, just a replacement potentiometer. The Hall sensor used is shown above; you could try installing it yourself but it will have to match the output of the original. It might be cheaper to let Mankmil do it for you.

Don't ignore leaks; it's probably the gear actuator that's leaking. It can be repaired with a new gasket.

RAB
 
Does somebody know how the hall sensor is attached to the old VAG sensor mechanism? those hall sensors might be better. only the attachment is a bit complicated. I want it to attach it so so that it can't break while driving? the hall sensor above is from the airduct valve from newer VAG cars.
I still wonder if it is more oil resistant than the original sensor since the cilinder always leaks oil and sometimes not really a little bit this is the complication of attaching a sensor to a hydraulic clutch mechanism.. I think that the hall sensors from gear robot are more resistant to oil.
 
For a one-off modification, you will probably find it cheaper to have your actuator modified by Mankmil; it will cost less than a new actuator. I have never had a problem with oil. It should be fine if the orange breather is positioned on the underside of the actuator.

RAB
 
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