Wiring loom route?

Bargepower

A2OC Donor
My cigarette lighter doesn't work. It did, for a short while when I picked the car up, but it just stopped working.
It's not the fuse, that's been tested with a multimeter and is fine.
There's no power at the plug that connects to the ciggy lighter, but the red light comes on that surrounds it when the lights are switched on, so I'm assuming (always dangerous, I know) that the earth wire is OK. I suspect a break in the 12v supply cable to the lighter.
The wires look to join into the loom down the left hand side of the gear lever assembly, then disappear into the bottom of the dash.
Where does the cable go? Does it come out of the taped loom to a connector somewhere? Or is the simplest thing to do is to run a new cable to the fusebox?
Thereby lies another question, how does the lower dash trim panel surrounding the fuses come off?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
My cigarette lighter doesn't work. It did, for a short while when I picked the car up, but it just stopped working.
It's not the fuse, that's been tested with a multimeter and is fine.
There's no power at the plug that connects to the ciggy lighter, but the red light comes on that surrounds it when the lights are switched on, so I'm assuming (always dangerous, I know) that the earth wire is OK. I suspect a break in the 12v supply cable to the lighter.
The wires look to join into the loom down the left hand side of the gear lever assembly, then disappear into the bottom of the dash.
Where does the cable go? Does it come out of the taped loom to a connector somewhere? Or is the simplest thing to do is to run a new cable to the fusebox?
Thereby lies another question, how does the lower dash trim panel surrounding the fuses come off?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi,

the trim under the dash and steering wheel is held on by a number of torx headed bolts and clips on the upper edge. The trim has "tongues" which clip into holes in the dash itself. These clips hold so strong its sometimes stronger than the plastic that the clips are attached too.

The first step is to remove the headlight switch. The switch sits on top of the trim so must be removed first. If you don't the front of the headlight switch will break off.

I have described how to take out the headlight switch in this post:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?29735-Headlight-switch-removal&p=246600#post246600

Next you must remove the trim that covers the driver's door sill and lower A pillar. The reason for this is that there is a hidden bolt behind this trim which can only be accessed by removing this first. If you don't remove it and take out all the bolts you can see, the trim will be loose but won't come out.

I have described this process in this post:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?31800-Lower-A-Pillar-Trim-Removal&p=268923#post268923

Remove all the torx bolts you can see. Once all the bolts are out, the lower part of the trim will drop down. The upper part is fixed by a series of clips, 3 I think from memory. The problem with these is that if the trim has never been removed before, they will be very stiff and just pulling will have a good chance that the plastic will be damaged. The plastic around the holes in the dash when the clips are held is quite weak and can break easily. I have in the past used a flat bladed screwdriver to prise apart the upper clips from behind. This puts less strain on the dash plastic and should release the clips with a smaller chance of breaking them.

Once the panel is released, the diagnostic connector can be unclipped.

regards

Andrew
 
A successful Bank Holiday Monday!
I now have fully functional lighter socket - and I've repaired the damage done by whoever in the past tried to gain access by wrenching all the plastics off the gear lever surround, breaking clips and tabs.
Toolstation sell an epoxy (code 29905) which actually bonds the plastics extremely well - better than the Gorilla product at 3 times the price.
Quite a happy bunny this evening :cool:
 
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