front brake pads

Mr Angry

A2OC Donor
hi guys,

i'm about to replace the front brake pads on my wifes a2 however, i dont see any 'how to' guides when i search. any ideas? i came across a couple of old threads but nothing showing any images etc...

i will crack on and see how i go :/ i know i need a 7mm allen key and to disconnect the sensor (if its not already broke) on the passenger side. anything else that i need to do?

cheers

cammy
 
Hi Cammy. I've done it so it's really easy.

There are loads of generic YouTube videos.

You remove the wheel. Unscrew the little screw holding the disc hub on. Use the Allen key to undo the bolts holding the calipers. Push them out of the way pop the pads out, force the little piston back, pull the disc off and replace is reverse.

I used some garden wire to hold the calipers out of the way while I did the disc - you don't want it to hang on the pipes.

The sensor wire does also need a delicate touch and I think I needed a cable tie as the rubber bit to hold it in place was damaged.

A lick of copper grease on mating parts but be careful not to overdo it or accidentally put into on braking surfaces.

I used the old brake pads and a pair of slip jaw plumbing pliers for taking the boss off of tanks to gently force the piston back in enough to allow the new pads it - don't hurt it, gentle pressure and it went in smoothly.

It was easy enough. You are ahead of me - I didn't realise about the 7mm Allen and tires to use a bit and wrench to undo the bolt. It takes a fair bit of force and the bit holder snapped! The wee 7mm brake key was a £5 from a motor store and did the job in 2 seconds. :)

It went fine for me and they lasted a few years no problems.

Depending on the disc I might be inclined to put a little paint on the hub edge and the edge of the disc - mine went orange pretty quickly. Not on the bits that are touched by the pad or wheel - just the edges.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ive got the caliper off but i cant get the piston to go back in. ive undone the yellow cap and also the bleed nipple to let some fluid out but forcing or trying to lever the piston back in is a ball ache. my g clamp is to small so might need to by one from halfrauds.

im using pagid brake pads :)
 
I used the really massive pipe grip pliers for removing an immerser from a copper tank - they have a slip jaw so you can span the piston and push on the old pad to force it back slowly in. I don't remember it being too hard to force.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I keep the old pad in place, on the piston side and lever it in with a large screwdriver(s). Messy but it works as long as piston not seized-ish.
M
 
Just changed the discs and pads on ours, used Mintex. I used a large g clamp to retract the piston, really easy job to do.
 
bad news for me..... ive threaded one of the calliper holes (topside) where the bolt goes through any ideas what to do? my fault as i shouldve made sure that the hole was cleaned out properly. i only used wd40 to spray hole and bolt thinking it would go in :(

didnt realise the drivers disc was badly corroded as the passenger side was fine. my problem is i need the car up and running today. what options do i have?

can i drive with one bolt and the other in place until i get a replacement carrier and how much is a replacement carrier?

i have a doner a2 which is a fsi can i use this?

cammy
 
is this a big job to strip all the parts from the donor? ie pipes, cables and other bits and bobs.

is there a guide for this before i venture into the unknown or is it common sense with bolts etc...

does anyone have a guestimate on time of removal etc..

i need to either put the calliper back together so i have use of car tomorrow or go all guns blazing and remove everything from fsi and replace on my wifes car. if it wont take more than 6-8 hours then i can start just now!

cammy
 
It is a fairly coarse thread so I cannot imagine you damaged more than the very beginning of it (thread) Standard M8 ?
If bolt will go into the other end this may clean up the thread. Certainly do not be tempted to have only 1 bolt, both must be tight.

If you change the caliper I thought they are all the same (bar 1.2 TDI), however I found I could not change my brake hose banjo bolt
as it was a different thread so small chance you may also need to change brake hose.
Martin
 
It is a fairly coarse thread so I cannot imagine you damaged more than the very beginning of it (thread) Standard M8 ?
If bolt will go into the other end this may clean up the thread. Certainly do not be tempted to have only 1 bolt, both must be tight.

If you change the caliper I thought they are all the same (bar 1.2 TDI), however I found I could not change my brake hose banjo bolt
as it was a different thread so small chance you may also need to change brake hose.
Martin

The brake hose was a special order for me at all of my parts suppliers but they did come undone ok
Swapping the Cali pets over should be an half hour per side job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would be removing the disc to reveal the other end of the thread and running a 8mm tap through the hole. You can get the tap at screwfix/toolstation.
 
I would be removing the disc to reveal the other end of the thread and running a 8mm tap through the hole. You can get the tap at screwfix/toolstation.

If the whole has been smoothed inside will the tap still work? I don't think it will screw in from the other side but I can try that when I have the wheel off again. I've changed the discs & pads ok and everything else seems to be working as normal apart from the threaded hole :(

I couldn't find a how to or guide showing pictures so here's a few if it helps :)

IMG_20170924_135810_resized_20170925_044705580.jpgIMG_20170924_142757_resized_20170925_044707321.jpgIMG_20170924_143451_resized_20170925_044706239.jpg

heres how bad my discs and pads were...

IMG-20170925-WA0008_resized_20170925_045448974.jpegIMG-20170925-WA0010.jpgIMG-20170925-WA0012_resized_20170925_045449310.jpeg

finished result...

IMG-20170925-WA0014.jpg

if anyone is interested i have a full set of discs and pads for sale shown in photos below :p

Cammy
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170925_152145_resized_20170925_044705249.jpg
    IMG_20170925_152145_resized_20170925_044705249.jpg
    298.5 KB · Views: 291
  • IMG_20170925_152151_resized_20170925_044706587.jpg
    IMG_20170925_152151_resized_20170925_044706587.jpg
    258.1 KB · Views: 278
  • IMG_20170925_152227_resized_20170925_044706945.jpg
    IMG_20170925_152227_resized_20170925_044706945.jpg
    315.1 KB · Views: 267
Last edited:
If it's the caliper slider pin thread which is damaged then it's M9 which is an oddball size.

Know it won't be much consolation but it's quite a common problem - http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...er-Carrier-and-Slide-pins&p=230332#post230332

Cheers Spike

im assuming you mean the two single bolts that slide into the carrier top & bottom then the threads are ok on both. its the hole where the bolt screws into on the carrier that is gubbed. so do i buy the kit mentioned in wilcos thread.... http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?28067-New-Front-Brakes

can someone tell me which one to buy as i cant seem to find the m9 version that wilco has :/

if this is the correct kit then i will buy that and make do with it until im more savvy with swapping parts from the fsi to the tdi :)

cheers

cammy
 
Last edited:
Sorry Mr Cross :)

I now realise I do not know which thread you are talking about so Im out. . .

However sorry to say but your suspension arm(s ?) look badly corroded; been on the forum in the last week as a potential dangerous failure. MOT should spot them but do not always.

Good luck

M
 
thanks for help guys :D

iv'e managed to rethread the hole with the helicoil and works perfectly! easy diy kit for £11 helped ease the pain of a possible swap of hubs and other parts from the fsi :)

*** can someone tell me the proper brake fluid to buy so i can bleed the brakes as they are spongy. also is there a guide on how to bleed the brakes properly? ***

cheers

cammy
 
Back
Top