Is this why me fuel cap door doesn’t work?

I would say it's been broken off on purpose to get over the dreaded micro switch problem. I fixed ours at the weekend and now it works a treat.
 
I would say it's been broken off on purpose to get over the dreaded micro switch problem. I fixed ours at the weekend and now it works a treat.

I had a suspicion something like this might be the case...

Is this the switch in the door frame that one presses to unlatch the fuel door?
 
I had a suspicion something like this might be the case...

Is this the switch in the door frame that one presses to unlatch the fuel door?
No, it is the micro switch in the door lock mechanism that is know to fail. The door doesn’t register as open because of that. If the car doesn’t sense that the door is open the fuel flap switch does not work.

Steve B
 
The switch you mention in the door frame is activated when the drivers door is open. The microswitch is in the drivers door, its this that tells the car that the door is open, it also activates the interior lights and the DIS with a picture of the car with the door open (if you have DIS). The microswitch is most likely at fault, it's fairly easy to get to but takes time to find the fault, mine was working but the cam that drives it was not pushing the switch enough to make the circuit, the cam is driven by the door lock mechanism. It sounds complicated, but it's a simple system.
I suspect your interior lights do not come on when the drivers door opens? If so your microswitch in the door needs attention.
 
The switch you mention in the door frame is activated when the drivers door is open. The microswitch is in the drivers door, its this that tells the car that the door is open, it also activates the interior lights and the DIS with a picture of the car with the door open (if you have DIS). The microswitch is most likely at fault, it's fairly easy to get to but takes time to find the fault, mine was working but the cam that drives it was not pushing the switch enough to make the circuit, the cam is driven by the door lock mechanism. It sounds complicated, but it's a simple system.
I suspect your interior lights do not come on when the drivers door opens? If so your microswitch in the door needs attention.

Ah... ok ... pretty sure my lights turn on when door opens... or maybe it’s when I use key fob button to unlock it...

I’ll double check...
 
it can also be the solder joints in the door lock assembly, I have had a few A2's were the interior light did not come on when the drivers door was opened (fuel flap would not open either)
I actually bought replacement micro switches, took out the door lock assy (2 hour job) and checked the micro switch with w DVM, it was perfect, further investigation revealed micro cracks in the solder joint of the main lock connector to the circuit board inside the lock. Reflowed the solder joints using leaded solder - result was the lock was perfect when refitted into the car

I'm not saying it will be the solder joints, as it could be the micro switch, but as the lock is such a MITA to remove and refit I always reflow the joints now just in case. The micro switch is easy to check with a DVM

Cheers,
 
Ah... ok ... pretty sure my lights turn on when door opens... or maybe it’s when I use key fob button to unlock it...

I’ll double check...
Yes, the interior lights come on when you unlock the doors.
If the milometer and date in the dash don’t light up when you open the driver’s door. Or if the door open warning doesn’t light up then your problem is within the door lock mechanism / wiring..

Steve B
 
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Ok guys, I ran outside and just checked... neighbors already think I’m crazy ha ha...

I used key fob to unlock car and of course lights came on...

Waited short while for lights to fade off...

Then opened driver door and no lights turned on... also miles meter and date didn’t light up but I recal them working before... I think this was when I turned engine off with key but left key in ignition so radio was on too...

Anyway, the rear DooR DOES turn on the lights... how funny is that?

So can we safely conclude that my drivers side micro thingy is broken?
 
Ok guys, I ran outside and just checked... neighbors already think I’m crazy ha ha...

I used key fob to unlock car and of course lights came on...

Waited short while for lights to fade off...

Then opened driver door and no lights turned on... also miles meter and date didn’t light up but I recal them working before... I think this was when I turned engine off with key but left key in ignition so radio was on too...

Anyway, the rear DooR DOES turn on the lights... how funny is that?

So can we safely conclude that my drivers side micro thingy is broken?

yes, they are exactly the symptoms of a dodgy driver’s door micro switch or wiring / solder as has been pointed out to you by Paul etc.

Steve B
 
Reserve a whole day for this job as the window frame has to be removed. Also make sure the window frame lines up with the roof before putting the door panel back together. Don't make the mistake I made and had to start again.
 
I'm in the same boat. My fuel button does not light up or work when the door is open. How easy is this for an idiot such as myself to resolve?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 
It's not an easy job but really just requires common sense and a knowledge of how simple switches work, a multi meter or a test lamp is essential though.
You may have to solder the joints if they are at fault, so make sure you have a soldering iron or a friend with one.
 
I'm in the same boat. My fuel button does not light up or work when the door is open. How easy is this for an idiot such as myself to resolve?

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it is doable, but not a job that I would recommend to someone unfamiliar with stripping the door down.

The best thing you can can do is to look at the “how to” on this and then you will see what is involved.

Go to the “how to” section, then select the “how to index” thread
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...-of-the-quot-How-To-s-quot-and-useful-threads
and in that list of extremely useful posts is one on repairing the micro switch in the door.

I would guess you might not want to have a go at this yourself, but it is a cheap fix when you DIY it.

Steve B
 
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it is doable, but not a job that I would recommend to someone unfamiliar with stripping the door down.

The best thing you can can do is to look at the “how to” on this and then you will see what is involved.

Go to the “how to” section, then select the “how to index” thread
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthrea...-of-the-quot-How-To-s-quot-and-useful-threads
and in that list of extremely useful posts is one on repairing the micro switch in the door.

I would guess you might not want to have a go at this yourself, but it is a cheap fix when you DIY it.

Steve B
Thanks Steve!
On another note, I'm very quiet re: remap as I can't get hold of an old laptop. I'm assuming using an emulator on a newer laptop wouldn't work?

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The MPPS version 12.0.06 or V13 that ships with the cheap MPPS cables bought on ebay for around £10 will NOT work on ANY 64bit version of windows - believe me I have tried and tried again
It will work OK on any 32 bit windows version.
In practice this means that Windows 7 32 bit version is the last windows that these cables will work on, there may be 32 bit versions of Windows Vista/Windows 8/windows 10, but they are certainly not main stream, as from post windows 7 the 64bit version was the mainstay from Microsoft

MPPS will NOT work with a MAC emulator such as parallels etc, you 'may' have a chance with bootcamp and install windows XP or Win7 32 bit, but I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS, so no guarantees

Cheers,
 
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