Information Audi A2 3L - Bought as non-runner...

Audi A2 3L

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So I've bought an Audi A2 3L, 2003 as a non-runner.

I say non-runner... that's not strictly true. It runs if you start it by bypassing the ECU controlled starter motor but the reason that it's off the road (no MOT since Jan 2016) is that the gearbox controller has gone faulty.

The PO isn't that clued up on it and removed the controller. I'll check it over and put it back on, bleed the hydraulics and see what's what.

The list of things to do...

Headlights - They don't work on dipped beam - check bulbs. Fit HIDs
Gearbox controller - refit and try
Rear view mirror - it wobbles on the mounting onto the windscreen - Look at replacing. Is this common?
Passenger door lock barrel - The PO decided that he wanted to fit different door handles but there's no barrel in the passenger door handle. Look how to fit replacement
Rear door locking - Came up as a fault on VCDS as the door going going into 'SAFE' - Not had a problem with it yet. More research
Driver's door window hesitates going up - See how it goes and lubricate. Maybe it needs a new regulator?
Front bumper - it's cracked in a few places at the bottom underneath... maybe live with it?
Belly pan is missing - is it worth fitting one? I'm only thinking about fuel economy.
Oil temp fault in instrument cluster - replace sensor?
Windscreen wiper arm is sitting dangerously close to the windscreen and has touched it a couple of times only in 'park' position. There's a lot of play in the rivet... the PO mentioned that this is a common fault?
Rear seat not locating fully - Try again after having read the 'How-to' on this great site! :cool:
OSF + NSF track rod ends, slight play. Check again.
OSR tyre - Doesn't look great. Maybe replace.
Keys not working central locking - batteries bought and will re-program tonight.
Front grill - I prefer the early flat one but maybe the later one will grow on me?!

Well that's enough to keep me going for the mo' ;)

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MG
 
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Hi I look forward to seeing this car get sorted out. Does the car have decals on the rear glass displaying mpg etc ? If so I remember it coming to one of our socials a few years ago. Be great to see you and your rare a2 at a social please. Cheers Mike
 
Hi I look forward to seeing this car get sorted out. Does the car have decals on the rear glass displaying mpg etc ? If so I remember it coming to one of our socials a few years ago. Be great to see you and your rare a2 at a social please. Cheers Mike

Yes that's the one... 105mpg, 105mph etc etc

MG
 
I would say that it's very unusual for the gearbox controller to fail. No need (or way) to bleed the hydraulics - it's self-bleeding, just keep an eye on the reservoir level. The cover is obligatory, it's part of the monocoque structure.

RAB
 
I would say that it's very unusual for the gearbox controller to fail. No need (or way) to bleed the hydraulics - it's self-bleeding, just keep an eye on the reservoir level. The cover is obligatory, it's part of the monocoque structure.

RAB

Thanks. I need to get it up on ramps and have an hour or so on it.

MG
 
Update from last night.

Having replaced the batteries on both remotes and having gone through the procedure to match them to the car again... nothing worked :(

So I left it until later that evening and went back. Magically, one of the remotes now works the car! But the other doesn't. It's enough for now.

The tyres had already dropped down to 10 psi or so, so I pulled the wheels off, re-valved (corrosion behind the valves looks to be the culprit) and re-sealed the tyres onto the wheels. Both rear tyres are dead :( But the fronts are fairly new :)

The headlights not working on dipped beam was just bulbs... nice easy fix.

The rear seat just needed some extra weight and working the handle and it dropped in :) But then I realised that the back isn't clicking in. On closer inspection the mechanism inside the seat back is broken so if I do manage to get the pin to drop down, I doubt I'll ever get it back up again without ripping the seat apart. Not good.

I've 'massaged' the wiper arm so that the bracket has some clearance to the windscreen now. It'll do until I replace the arm.

Hopefully it'll still be sitting on 40psi tyres when I get home ;)

Maybe tonight I'll get it up on ramps and refit the gearbox controller.

MG
 
it is possible to re pin the wiper assy to remove the play. It involves making custom turned stainless steel pins and reaming out the holes in the wiper arms to bring back to round
I have done this a number of times on my own wiper arms and a few for A2OC members, you end up with a better than new wiper assy. If you don't have access to a metal lathe then its a none starter to DIY it
Happy to sort it for you, PM me if interested

best of luck with the project, very interesting and uber rare
Cheers,
 
it is possible to re pin the wiper assy to remove the play. It involves making custom turned stainless steel pins and reaming out the holes in the wiper arms to bring back to round
I have done this a number of times on my own wiper arms and a few for A2OC members, you end up with a better than new wiper assy. If you don't have access to a metal lathe then its a none starter to DIY it
Happy to sort it for you, PM me if interested

best of luck with the project, very interesting and uber rare
Cheers,

That's a very generous offer, thank you I might just take you up on that offer

The gearbox solenoid block is back on but I don't know which plug goes where on the solenoids so I need to look that up before going any further. Does anyone have a photo of theirs or have the wire colours for each please?

MG
 
The gearbox solenoid block is back on but I don't know which plug goes where on the solenoids so I need to look that up before going any further. Does anyone have a photo of theirs or have the wire colours for each please?

The gear actuator has two each of three different connectors and should be marked before removal. The sensor leads are easy because one lead is longer than the other. That leaves four different combinations. The Lupo 3L actuator is lot easier to remove/install because it has its' own wiring loom and has no heat shield.

RAB
 
The gear actuator has two each of three different connectors and should be marked before removal. The sensor leads are easy because one lead is longer than the other. That leaves four different combinations. The Lupo 3L actuator is lot easier to remove/install because it has its' own wiring loom and has no heat shield.

RAB

Ok. The only plugs that I need to check are for the 4x solenoids that are bunched next to each other. Within that set there are two different sizes of connectors.

The rest of the solenoids and sensors are, as you say, self explanatory as the wiring will only allow one possible position.

I checked the Lupo but the wire colours are different.

MG
 
Ok so I found the correct configuration of plugs for the solenoid block and connected the lot.

I refilled the hydraulics with the accumulator backed off 1/4 turn, then tightened it up, plugged the pump in and opened the drivers door.

The pump started up and the level slowly dropped as it was pumped around the system.

Once it had stopped, I unplugged it, backed off the accumulator again, allowed the level to come back up and checked it. Added a little more to the upper internal line, tightened the accumulator again and plugged it all back in again.

I then switched on (with battery charger connected), cleared the faults in the gearbox ECU and went onto basic settings.

At the point of the system going through the 'Transmission Positions', there was no sound from the solenoid block. It's not trying to select gears :(

It ran through the positions twice and then came up with RTFM!

Someone suggested bleeding air off the clutch actuator so I backed off the allen bolt which faces up but there was no pressure there and oil barely trickled out.

The clutch actuator is not trying work at all. The clutch voltage is reading 1.85v at all times, whether the pump is plugged in or not.

The pump isn't running unless I disconnect and re-connect the pump wiring. When it does run it's only for half a second as I expect the pressure is already there.

Pressure voltage is 3.11v.

Ideas please :)

MG
 
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In the value block, along with RTFM. Do you have a known good accumulator? VCDS is incapable of diagnosing an accumulator with low or no gas. Swap or test it on the Lupo.

RAB
 
In the value block, along with RTFM. Do you have a known good accumulator? VCDS is incapable of diagnosing an accumulator with low or no gas. Swap or test it on the Lupo.

RAB

Ok, I'll check again for the value. From memory it was either at 28 or 1 but I can't remember and didn't take a photo of it.

I have a spare accumulator so I'll swap it over tonight and try again.

I was tempted to do this last night but dismissed it as I thought that if there wasn't enough pressure, the fluid wouldn't have dropped in the reservoir... I'll do it though. It's worth trying.

MG
 
It will still pump oil into the accumulator until the required pressure is reached but if there is little or no gas in the accumulator and as a liquid cannot be compressed, the pressure is lost instantaneously as soon as the valve opens.

Is the rubber inspection cover in place on top of the bell housing?

RAB
 
It will still pump oil into the accumulator until the required pressure is reached but if there is little or no gas in the accumulator and as a liquid cannot be compressed, the pressure is lost instantaneously as soon as the valve opens.

Is the rubber inspection cover in place on top of the bell housing?

RAB

Ok thanks for that. No idea re rubber inspection cover... never looked for it. I'll check.

MG
 
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