Clutch / Gearbox

Morning folks,

Just posting to see if anyone out there has has any issues with as stated the clutch and gearbox.. mine is the 1.4TDi AMF recently it's been a nightmare to get into gear.. reverse, 1st, sometimes 2nd, 3rd and 4th OK, 5th a nightmare again. Clutch fully engaged when changing. I've taken it to my mechanic and he thinks changing the clutch to start with but cant rule out a bad gearbox either just wanted to see if you guys had any thoughts.

Thanks for reading.

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER
 
Morning folks,

Just posting to see if anyone out there has has any issues with as stated the clutch and gearbox.. mine is the 1.4TDi AMF recently it's been a nightmare to get into gear.. reverse, 1st, sometimes 2nd, 3rd and 4th OK, 5th a nightmare again. Clutch fully engaged when changing. I've taken it to my mechanic and he thinks changing the clutch to start with but cant rule out a bad gearbox either just wanted to see if you guys had any thoughts.

Thanks for reading.

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER

Have you tried resetting the gearbox linkages?
 
Have you tried resetting the gearbox linkages?
This was the text I got from my mechanic yesterday explaining everything he has done so far...

" I have carried out a bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.

And I have carried out the correct adjustment to the cables.

My feelings on the clutch is that the pedal is very low anyways I’m assuming the clutch is knackered and not clearing enough to get a smooth gear change.

Gearbox out job, clutch kit and slave replacement would be a good start.

Don’t advise driving it like this at the moment as it’s crunching gears.

We can’t rule out a knackered gearbox but with the clutch biting point so low we need to try that.

What’s your thoughts. "

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER
 
This was the text I got from my mechanic yesterday explaining everything he has done so far...

" I have carried out a bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.

And I have carried out the correct adjustment to the cables.

My feelings on the clutch is that the pedal is very low anyways I’m assuming the clutch is knackered and not clearing enough to get a smooth gear change.

Gearbox out job, clutch kit and slave replacement would be a good start.

Don’t advise driving it like this at the moment as it’s crunching gears.

We can’t rule out a knackered gearbox but with the clutch biting point so low we need to try that.

What’s your thoughts. "

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER

I can't say I have read on this forum of any knackered gearbox. What I have read and experienced myself is the bearing in gearbox selector tower and the 3rd gear crunch caused by worn syncro. You can do a quick search on here for these problems to see if the same symptoms are prevalent. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
Got two question relating to my issue... if someone could let me know that would be great.

*1.4TDi AMF*

1, Does my A2 have a crankshaft sensor?

2, Does it have a dual mass flywheel?

Cheers folks.

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER
 
Got two question relating to my issue... if someone could let me know that would be great.

*1.4TDi AMF*

1, Does my A2 have a crankshaft sensor?

2, Does it have a dual mass flywheel?

Cheers folks.

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER

It has a crankshaft AND a camshaft sensor.

It does NOT have a Dual Mass Flywheel.

Steve B
 
And that is a bad thing right...?

The Dual Mass Flywheel is normally considered as a 'bad thing' because it is a moving part which is subject to wear and tear that the earlier AMF and BHC TDI engines do not have

Most diesels when to dual mass flywheels around the time that power and torque started to increase which was just after the mechanical diesel pumps where replaced with either the PD or common rail injection systems.
The reason that DMF where introduced was to 'cushion' the gearbox and drive train from the large amounts of torque which the diesel engines generate at very low revs, imagine the poor gearbox having to take all this torque from a standing start and the driver letting the clutch out very quickly, the peek torque through the gearbox would eventually do damage resulting in either sheared shafts or bent shafts.
So, to protect the gearbox and drive train from this peak torque the DMF was conceived, it acts as a cushion between the engines crankshaft and the gearbox, when the clutch is engaged the DMF absorbs the peak torque, thus protecting the gearbox

The problem is the DMF is subject to wear, this as never been resolved and indeed most manufactures have stopped using DMF on their latest cars (a software modification is used to reduce peak torque for a second or so after the clutch is released - now isn't that a simpler and more elegant solution than the DMF)
A few manufactures (Toyota amongst them) where replacing DMF under warranty until the car was 5 years old or 60K miles, I personally know of owners who have had DMF replaced under warranty at more than 5 years old and more than 60K miles, but I guess these will have been 'good will gestures'

Hope this help
Cheers,
Paul
 
My ATL is close to 95k miles; still ok even if wife drives it

Lets see when its finito; if I will replace it single-mass or not.
 
My ATL is close to 95k miles; still ok even if wife drives it

Lets see when its finito; if I will replace it single-mass or not.
When it does start to show signs you might as well replace it with a new DMF. There would be no real cost savings. A lot of the cost is labour and getting the right non DMF bits is not cheap either.
Steve B
 
I'm with Steve on this, the DMF makes the car a lot more refined.
Mine lasted 193 k miles but the wife hardly drove it at all or anybody else for that matter :eek:
 
This was the text I got from my mechanic yesterday explaining everything he has done so far...

" I have carried out a bleeding of the clutch hydraulics.

And I have carried out the correct adjustment to the cables.

My feelings on the clutch is that the pedal is very low anyways I’m assuming the clutch is knackered and not clearing enough to get a smooth gear change.

Gearbox out job, clutch kit and slave replacement would be a good start.

Don’t advise driving it like this at the moment as it’s crunching gears.

We can’t rule out a knackered gearbox but with the clutch biting point so low we need to try that.

What’s your thoughts. "

Luke Vettraino Smith
THEAUDISTALKER

I do not think gearbox out is necessarily a good start.
How long did it take for this problem to get to this stage ?
Are you sure the hydraulics are ok ? Master cylinder ? My guess would be it is easier to check/replace the whole pedal to slave cylinder area first.
Good luck !
 
I’m not sure that Re electronic control method is more elegant. It depends on what they were trying to achieve. The electronic system robs the engine of some power to protect the drivetrain - presumably it throttles something down or dumps some pressure somewhere. The DMF retains all the energy put into it but the elastic nature of the spring delays the application of all that angular momentum force - but it’s still there! If you are speeding or slowing the flywheel the spring should smooth things out but keep all the energy conserved. I think that’s elegant. Electronic is MUCH simpler and easier though but mechanically I think the DMF is a very elegant concept.


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I do not think gearbox out is necessarily a good start.
How long did it take for this problem to get to this stage ?
Are you sure the hydraulics are ok ? Master cylinder ? My guess would be it is easier to check/replace the whole pedal to slave cylinder area first.
Good luck !

I agree,

A crunching gear change and difficult to change gear, with a clutch biting point sounds more like a failed master cylinder / slave cylinder.

Is the brake fluid at the right level in the brake reservoir? If the slave cylinder is leaking you will get these symptoms and the level of brake fluid will drop (they share the same reservoir).
You can try to see if pumping the clutch pedal makes the biting point come up higher. If it does then it is likely to be a hydraulic / cylinder problem.

Even if it doesn't make any difference it still could be hydraulics.


Gearbox off is a last resort, it might be necessary butr check all other options first.

Steve B
 
I’m not sure that Re electronic control method is more elegant. It depends on what they were trying to achieve. The electronic system robs the engine of some power to protect the drivetrain - presumably it throttles something down or dumps some pressure somewhere. The DMF retains all the energy put into it but the elastic nature of the spring delays the application of all that angular momentum force - but it’s still there! If you are speeding or slowing the flywheel the spring should smooth things out but keep all the energy conserved. I think that’s elegant. Electronic is MUCH simpler and easier though but mechanically I think the DMF is a very elegant concept.


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The electronic power/torque reduction is only momentary as the clutch is released
It saves on the complexity and rotational mass of the DMF enabling the engine to rev more freely.
The dmf And particulate filter are the 2reasons why I will not have a latter diesel than the amf or bhc engined A2


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