fuel filter how to change

pc759

pc759

A2OC Donor
Couyld any one tell me where the fuel filter is on an o4 tdi and how to change it? Ive had look under around the offside rear wheel but cant really see anything and another post mentions its under the rear seat
So please comments greatly appreciated
Paul
 
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pc759 said:
ive done searches and for some reason the forum is saying i do not have priveliges to open a pdf by spike about the fuel filter location. Couyld any one tell me where it is on an o4 tdi and how to change it? Ive had look under around the offside rear wheel but cant really see anything and another post mentions its under the rear seat
So please comments greatly appreciated
Paul
Click to expand...

Hi!
If it is located on the same place as on the petrol, its on the right hand side, under a plastic cover in front of the rear tire. Easy removal and install. The plastic cover has the shape of a triangle as far as I remember.

-P-
 
As promised, here is a definitive, photo guide to changing the fuel filter on all post 2002 diesel A2s:

Firstly, familiarise yourself with the following parts, as shown in the workshop manual drawing:

FuelFilterAssembly.jpg


You will be changing items 2, 4 and 5 and they are all included in the box when you buy the filter from a dealer. The box contents are shown below:

Picture005.jpg


You will need the following:

Ramps, axel stands and jacks,
10mm socket
27mm socket (hex, not bi-hex)
Gloves to avoid getting diesel all over your hands
Drip tray
Hose Clamps

Proceed as follows:

Raise the rear of the car in whatever way you prefer (I reversed up onto ramps) and then remove the dimpled aluminium cover just in front of the rear nearside wheel (held on by 10mm speed nuts, which often shear off!).

Clean off the filter housing and surrounding areas to avoid contaminating the new filter.

Use the hose clamps to isolate pipes 11 and 12, as shown below:

Picture009.jpg


You can clearly see the front clamp and the rear one is just poking out from behind. This step is essential to avoid loss of prime and airlocks in the system and also to minimise fuel loss. If you don't have clamps, get some otherwise if you proceed beyond this point without, you'll be in a world of pain later!

Anyway, once you have isolated the filter, undo the central 10mm nut and get the drip tray ready - diesel will start to trickle out, but if you lose more than a cupful, something is wrong! You can see the stream of blue diesel coming from the filter in the above photo.

When the trickle has stopped, undo the main cover of the filter housing, using a 27mm socket. Do not use adjustable spanners, mole grips, 12-point (or bi-hex) sockets or anything else. You MUST use a 27mm hex socket, as the nut is plastic and easily deformed unless pressure is applied evenly all around to all surfaces. If you ruin the nut, you will have to buy an entire new housing, as it isn't available separately and it costs £55!

Once you have removed the filter, it is time to change the 3 O rings and insert the new filter:

Picture008.jpg


Cover the new O rings in fresh diesel before tightening them in place. Also, remove any sludge from the cover cap (the bit with the 27mm nut moulded into it), as otherwise the holes in it will be blocked.

Reinstall the filter, making sure you positively get it snapped into position, then screw in the cover cap, to 25Nm and finally the 10mm nut assembly, to 2Nm.

Wipe everything down again, remove the clamps and check for leaks. Leave the car for 30 minutes or so to allow the housing to refill with fuel before driving (nice time to get a cup of tea!), refit the dimpled aluminium plate and lower the car.

Job done!

Cheers,

Mike
 
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Sorry for some thread necromacy here but I've just managed to make a horlicks of this. All went well until the very last step where I over-torqued the small plug and sheared it off about half way down. I'm raging with myself as I guess I'll now have to buy a whole new fuel filter assembly.

The threaded section of the plug is firmly in the large bottom plug so I'm guessing it'll be sealed for the time being. Does anyone else think otherwise?

Thanks,

Iain
 
Hi Iain,

Unfortunately, there'sno part number for the little screw, so it'll have to be a full housing, unless you can find one from a scrapper.

The filter appears to be unique to the A2 also - the Polo uses the older style A2 filter (metal cannister), so you're bang out of luck, especially as the entire housing costs around £75!!!

On the bright side, this does include a new filter unit as well (I think), so you're sorted for a future change!

Cheers,

Mike
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this is a great how-to guide, just what I have been looking for. I am about to undertake a fuel filter change on a 2001 1.4 TDI but this guide says it is for 2002 onwards. Is there a How to Guide like this for an earlier car?
 
I can't recall a guide for the early TDi fuel filter but this may help
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1780&d=1217885467
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?17751-fuel-filter&p=134794#post134794

I've added another post which may help.
When I've changed my filter fuel drainback was minimal and there was no need to block off any of the hoses. I do however use the fingers from old latex gloves with elastic bands as drip guards. As the guide indicates, after marking everything up, (digital pics are also helpful) remove the filter can with the union and short pipes attached. To refit the union / pipes assy on the new filter, lube the O-ring with fuel, place a block of wood on the floor then press the can onto the union assy (the union is plastic so tapping it on with a hammer is not a good idea)


Cheers Spike
 
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Hi there, further to the fuel filter changing- does the fuel tank have a strainer at the outlet. My car starts straight away after having being left over night, however it then a lot of cranking if it has been left for 15 minutes after use. It will then start, but may cut out after about 5 minutes. it looks like it's drawing in air firstly near the lift pump, and then at the filter. I have changed the fuel filter but used spurious filters. The first time the "thin film of black residue" referred somewhere in a post was a wodge of black jelly, the second time there was just black discolouration.
I have tried to remove the fuel filter assembly but failed due to stubborn pipes and a torrential downpour. I'm going to try to attach a picture from my w124 diesel merc to show what horrors may be lurking in the tank.
Thanks to all involved, so far I've change all the belts, indicator relay, brake light sensor (thrice) with all your advice. By the way the brake light issue was actually caused by an on off connection at a brake light bulb which seemed to confuse whatever brain is in charge. It all worked fine once the actuator was changed, but only for a while. Thanks again, Colman
 
When I last changed the fuel filter on my 2001 1.2Tdi, I seem to remember that there were 'quick-connects' in the pipework that are self-sealing and different for each connection, making incorrect connection almost impossible. This made installation so much easier. Be aware though that the earlier A2's have a different filter, although the pipe work may be similar.

RAB
 
A quick check of Elsawin shows that you need fuel clamps for the pipework for the later filter. 05/2002 is when the change occurred. At the least the filter change was cheaper!

RAB
 
I used clamps changing the filters the first time, but then I wanted to drain the tank when changing it again. They must be self sealing.


2003 A2 1.4TDI SE Dolphin Grey, bought 2006
1991 merc S124 (estate) Black (the hearse) + 1 spare
1981 Lancia Gamma Coupe 2.5ie + one spare
1973 lancia Fulvia Sport 1.6 + 2 spare (normal coupe bodies)
1967 Landrover 110 diesel + 1 spare
 
Many thanks for the easy to follow guide Skipton. You were right that the heat shield bolts would shear, even after dousing with penetrating oil. After drilling out the sheared ends I turned to the heat shield which was seriously rotted around the bolt holes. Luckily enough I has some heat proof aluminium tape spare from a recent kitchen installation which I used to build up the shield around the holes. After drilling new hole for the new bolts all went back as new.
 
Brilliant!

Just had a service done by a local independent garage. On checking the Bill at home, I noticed that I had been charged £51.84 + vat for a fuel filter housing. After reading this article, I realised that you should not need to change the housing, just the element. I printed the article and went back to the garage and asked to speak to the mechanic that had done the service. I asked him what he had used to undo the nut, and guess what, wrong tool used! I then spoke to the Manager who agreed that I should not have to pay for the housing as it was broken by them. Keep up the great work guys, your input just saved me almost £60. This is by far the best Owners Club out there, thank you.
 
I intend to do this at the weekend on my TDi, after the major service at the dealer they couldn't change the filter as the housing was 'too brittle'! so I ordered one and got that to fit. Assuming it comes with filter in it, and the couplings are all self sealing, this should be a straightforward job right?!?!?!?!?

Steve
 
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