Project 'The FSI'

Indi

Member
It's about time I started a project thread for my FSI, I've been meaning to for some time but never got around to it!

None of my collection seem to have acquired nicknames, instead just being referred to as 'The 1.4' for the 1.4 Petrol, 'The TDI' for the TDI, and (notice a pattern?) 'The FSI' for the FSI, hence the name of this thread. If something sticks in the future then I'll probably rename the thread, but for now that's all I could think of 😂

It was sold to me last August by @Ami, who had been dry storing it for several years, (I think originally with the intension of converting it to a pickup!?)
It had been off the road and not MOT'd in over 3 years, long overdue a cambelt change, an ABS light showing, alternator charging issues, and the typical FSI manifold flap setpoint error.

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Loaded up for the journey to it's new home, and then upon arrival (below)
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By random coincidence, it was initially registered on the same day that one of my younger brothers was born (Jan 14 2003), though he is in better condition, and I suspect lower mileage.

I believe I am the 12th owner

The car is in reasonable condition, and looks good from a distance, however there is lacquer peel/chips on the bonnet, the front bumper has been resprayed, the undertray has been violently ripped off, rear bumper has some dents and scratches, and the wheels are in a condition typical of the age and mileage. (they are also not one set, I assume there are two versions of the 6 spoke wheels, as the two pairs of wheels have different 'nub' arrangements behind the center caps)

Interior is cleaning up ok, the soft touch is badly worn, and badly 'repaired' with wonky stickers and spray paint, but I have a hard touch fuel button and climate unit which make a big difference.


First of the major jobs was the cambelt and water pump which went smoothly, with oil, and filter changes, plus new drop links at the same time.

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The coolant was brown, presumably had mixed g12 and g13 at some point which should not cause problems but is now pink again after a water flush and refill with g12evo.

I also managed to pull the threads of the aluminium engine mount brackets, despite using a calibrated torque wrench and the torque specs in the manual, possibly because I was using anti-seize (Side note: its best to use aluminium grease rather than copper grease on aluminium parts as copper can cause galvanic corrosion in contact with aluminium)

With the car in the air, I noticed the drivers side wishbone was rusting through
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Weirdly, in this photo, (and the others I took but haven't posted here) the ARB bush looks blue, even though when I later removed the ARB when remedying the wishbones it was most certainly black.

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Next was the intake manifold, which I removed and cleaned up, replacing the gaskets and injector O-rings, and taking the opportunity to clean the carbon off the valves at the same time, turning the engine until the valves for a given port are closed and cleaning it out with carb cleaner, compressed air and a wire brush (DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH, I ended up with bristles in the cylinders and had to try and remove them with a borescope and a straw taped to a vacuum cleaner. Very fiddly, would not recommend.)

I also removed the blanking plate someone had put on the EGR valve, and repaired the arm for the manifold flap vacuum actuator (with epoxy and carbon rods - though as I later found, this did not work), as I noticed it had snapped due to someone's bodged repair in the past causing it to grind itself against the manifold.

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I then replaced the pressed wishbones with cast, stripping the threads in the two cast aluminium suspension consoles, but was able to source some more from @Ami, along with various other bits. I've kept the originals, to look at drilling and helicoiling them in the future should I need to for one of the other cars. Apparently I didn't get any photos of the new wishbones as was too busy taking artistic photos of the car on the lift...



More to follow later
 
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Hello Indigo,

Looks like an amazing rescue in progress here. Really looking forward to the updates on this thread. Good luck with whatever needs doing to put this back to daily use. I love my new trolley jack but I certainly have sheltered-lift envy!

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hello Indigo,

Looks like an amazing rescue in progress here. Really looking forward to the updates on this thread. Good luck with whatever needs doing to put this back to daily use. I love my new trolley jack but I certainly have sheltered-lift envy!

Kind regards,

Tom
Thanks, it’s currently on the road and MOT’d (though still has plenty to do) I’ll cover the rest later!

The lift is awesome to have, it’s my grandads, and is ancient but still gets the job done even if it does make some interesting noises 😂

I’m pretty sure it’s one of these, dating back to the 40s or 50s:
IMG_7978.jpeg
 
wow nice set up you have there. i like the way you describe the 1.4, TDi and FSI what a great way to describe the engines without the need to ask which type they are... should be a forum rule, lol
look forward to the updates!
 
While I had it up and apart for those larger jobs I took the time to fix a few smaller issues:


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The bottom bulge had ripped off the rear bump stops, causing the dust covers to drop down. At some point I’ll refurb the suspension and refresh the lot, but for now I’m living with the moldy tatty bump stops so just secured it with some stainless wire.
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One of the many previous owners had seen it fit to not only remove the heat shield that protects the drive shaft cv joint from the exhaust pipe, but also to cut off the mounting bracket that should be part of the lower gearbox mount.
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I used some thin aluminium sheet I had spare from another project to make a replacement, that fixes to two holes I drilled in the gear box mount with some 3mm stainless bolts.

For the other cars I’d be more tempted to source a replacement genuine part, or do a better finished custom replacement, but for now this is sufficient as a quick fix, ‘The FSI’ is rougher than the other two cars so I’m not as bothered by it.



Another mysteriously missing part was the bracket supporting the lower end of the inlet manifold. The manifold on the FSI is a massive cast aluminium lump, and with the bracket missing I didn’t like how the whole weight was levering on just the top bolts so I found a new one on eBay to replace it.
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I also replaced the rear offside ABS sensor as the old one had failed causing the ABS and brake warning lights on the dash, as well as shorting the wires for the brake pad wear sensor, as these had been mangled, breaking the connector and causing the annoying beeping on startup.



At this point I booked it in for an MOT, the engine was running nicely, and the manifold flap warning had gone. The only question mark was the brakes, which while still stopping the car, did not feel as effective as the other A2s.

To add some urgency, while working on 'The FSI' I had been eaking out as much life as I possibly could from the remains of ‘The 1.4’s clutch. Eventually it reached the point where it was slipping on steep uphills despite my gentlest efforts, and with plenty such slopes around in Devon where I live I decided to park it up and be without a car for a week or two.

I did drive ‘The TDI’ for a week or two, but it has its own set of problems and quickly became apparent that it was not at all in roadworthy condition, despite having passed its MOT less than six months earlier (before we had bought it). It is in awesome shape cosmetically, but needs a lot of mechanical attention and will get its own project thread (guess what I’ll title that one) in the future.



Then, a few days before the MOT, I moved it across the yard and the engine light came on, with a code for the manifold flaps (17439). As it turns out, epoxies are not very heat resistant, and the standard Araldite I had used is in fact only rated to eighty degrees, and had turned to cheese, failing over course of a few test runs.

I took the manifold off over the course of Monday afternoon, repaired it all and got it back together on Tuesday, just in time for its MOT at 8:30 on Wednesday morning.
This time I used stainless steel wire, two loops, one each side, tensioned round an M3 stainless bolt, and then liberally doused in a higher temperature rated epoxy (Araldite 2011 iirc) for good measure.
IMG_7559.jpg

Messy, but is still holding up about 3000 miles later.




Along with the manifold flap code, there was also a warning

16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
P0328 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent

While the manifold was off again and the engine was dropped forward, I took the opportunity to investigate.
IMG_7539.jpg
The mystery previous owner had struck again, this time trying their hand at some wiring. I replaced the twisted connections with some crimp connectors, and the issue hasn't returned.




While poking around I also got a photo of the 'Death Pipe'. I think the filth is largely spray and drips from when I cleaned the valves. Other than that though it seems in reasonable nick, and given that many of the missing parts I have since replaced need to be removed when accessing the death pipe (Heat shield, Manifold support Bracket, even the Knock sensor wiring is in a similar area...) I wouldn't be surprised if it has been replaced at some point.
Alternatively, that could be wishful thinking, and in fact the rampage of disassembly is entirely random.
IMG_7579.jpg

That is the knock sensor, secured with a bolt below the pipe for anyone wondering, in this picture, unplugged. (As far as I know the knock sensor is effectively just a piezo microphone, bolted to the block, that detects the vibrations caused by Knocking)
 

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The vacuum actuator for the manifold flaps is supposed to have some locking tabs on the end to keep it secured into the lever for the flaps. These were missing, perhaps due to someone attempting to replace the actuator without removing the manifold, and finding they couldn't line up the tabs correctly.
I trimmed down the pin, and drilled it out for an M3 bolt instead. This was glued into the arm to stop any movement that might cause it tp wear away at the plastic. Note the two nuts, allowing the nuts to be tightened against each other without tightening the lever into the actuator arm, as these two parts need to pivot freely.
IMG_7589.jpg


As a note to anyone else attempting similar:

The manifold needs to be removed from the engine in order to remove and install the flap actuator.
This is because there is not clearance between the lever arm and the manifold to slide out the pivot pin on the end of the actuator arm.
For this purpose there is a recess in the manifold casting, however, when installed, the ends of the flaps protrude into the inlet ports on the cylinder head, which restricts the motion of the flaps and means that the lever arm cannot be rotated far enough to reach the recess and detach the actuator arm from the lever arm.


With the issues fixed, and the car back together, I got it off the lift and set off home in it that evening, in preparation for its MOT early the next day.
About four miles in, when poking around in the engine bay due to an interesting smell, I leant lightly on a coolant hose which snapped at a plastic junction piece and sprayed coolant everywhere. Many of the original hose clips have been replaced with jubilee clips, so possibly it had been overtightened, weakening the junction, or maybe it was just a casualty of 21 years exposure to the FSIs high running temperatures.
IMG_8099.jpg


At that point I left the car in a layby and got a lift home as it was very late, and I had had enough.

The next day I got a lift out to the car again, armed with a bottle of water. I removed the offending junction, and shuffled around the existing pipes, plugging the vent hose from the top of the radiator with a 1/4" extension bar, as that hose was deemed the least important.

The quick fix was enough to get it to the Garage, where it failed the MOT anyway, on brakes.
(I had tested the brakes before taking it on the road, and for most normal braking they felt absolutely fine, but under heavy braking a lot of force was needed to stop the car quickly, so possibly brake assist related?)
Screenshot 2024-05-08 211947.png

The imbalance was a surprise however, as I had not noticed the car pulling to one side under heavy braking, and the dashboard light gave no indication that the ESP was correcting anything.

I stripped down and cleaned the front calipers (all the original seals looked ok) and drained and refilled the brake fluid (Draining was a big mistake, no idea why I decided to do that 🤣)

The handbrake was tight, and the cable was not stiff, so luckily no problem there as I've heard rear disk cables are hard to come by.
I just drove with the handbrake on a bit, and that seemed to bed it down a bit, I assume just because the car had sat unused for so long.

I did not know that you could fail an MOT on windscreen washers, but that was an easy problem, I had replaced the scuttle panel and not plugged in the water pipes, due to a split pipe.


Screenshot 2024-05-08 213444.png

After fixing those issues, the second attempt a few days later resulted in a pass!
 
Brilliant tenacity, great work! 👍
Thanks!
It turned into a bit of a slog, transpired to need a lot more than I initially thought, but I’m not too miffed as I knew what I was getting myself into with the FSIs reputation 😂

Getting it on the road was a huge step, still lots to do but it’s a blast to drive and makes it all worth it!
 
Good Evening,

Take a bow, well done. Mac will present the services to FSI medal in due course.

For your information it looks like the death pipe is original. Fortunately the death pipe comes with a date stamp "clock face" which I read as 2002.
Suppose it could be 2012???

Andy
 
Good Evening,

Take a bow, well done. Mac will present the services to FSI medal in due course.

For your information it looks like the death pipe is original. Fortunately the death pipe comes with a date stamp "clock face" which I read as 2002.
Suppose it could be 2012???

Andy
I'll let you know when the date for the next investiture.
🏅
Mac.
 
While I had it up and apart for those larger jobs I took the time to fix a few smaller issues:


View attachment 123532
The bottom bulge had ripped off the rear bump stops, causing the dust covers to drop down. At some point I’ll refurb the suspension and refresh the lot, but for now I’m living with the moldy tatty bump stops so just secured it with some stainless wire.
View attachment 123533




One of the many previous owners had seen it fit to not only remove the heat shield that protects the drive shaft cv joint from the exhaust pipe, but also to cut off the mounting bracket that should be part of the lower gearbox mount.
View attachment 123534
I used some thin aluminium sheet I had spare from another project to make a replacement, that fixes to two holes I drilled in the gear box mount with some 3mm stainless bolts.

For the other cars I’d be more tempted to source a replacement genuine part, or do a better finished custom replacement, but for now this is sufficient as a quick fix, ‘The FSI’ is rougher than the other two cars so I’m not as bothered by it.



Another mysteriously missing part was the bracket supporting the lower end of the inlet manifold. The manifold on the FSI is a massive cast aluminium lump, and with the bracket missing I didn’t like how the whole weight was levering on just the top bolts so I found a new one on eBay to replace it.
View attachment 123535



I also replaced the rear offside ABS sensor as the old one had failed causing the ABS and brake warning lights on the dash, as well as shorting the wires for the brake pad wear sensor, as these had been mangled, breaking the connector and causing the annoying beeping on startup.



At this point I booked it in for an MOT, the engine was running nicely, and the manifold flap warning had gone. The only question mark was the brakes, which while still stopping the car, did not feel as effective as the other A2s.

To add some urgency, while working on 'The FSI' I had been eaking out as much life as I possibly could from the remains of ‘The 1.4’s clutch. Eventually it reached the point where it was slipping on steep uphills despite my gentlest efforts, and with plenty such slopes around in Devon where I live I decided to park it up and be without a car for a week or two.

I did drive ‘The TDI’ for a week or two, but it has its own set of problems and quickly became apparent that it was not at all in roadworthy condition, despite having passed its MOT less than six months earlier (before we had bought it). It is in awesome shape cosmetically, but needs a lot of mechanical attention and will get its own project thread (guess what I’ll title that one) in the future.



Then, a few days before the MOT, I moved it across the yard and the engine light came on, with a code for the manifold flaps (17439). As it turns out, epoxies are not very heat resistant, and the standard Araldite I had used is in fact only rated to eighty degrees, and had turned to cheese, failing over course of a few test runs.

I took the manifold off over the course of Monday afternoon, repaired it all and got it back together on Tuesday, just in time for its MOT at 8:30 on Wednesday morning.
This time I used stainless steel wire, two loops, one each side, tensioned round an M3 stainless bolt, and then liberally doused in a higher temperature rated epoxy (Araldite 2011 iirc) for good measure.
View attachment 123536
Messy, but is still holding up about 3000 miles later.




Along with the manifold flap code, there was also a warning

16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
P0328 - 35-10 - Signal too High - Intermittent

While the manifold was off again and the engine was dropped forward, I took the opportunity to investigate.
View attachment 123537 The mystery previous owner had struck again, this time trying their hand at some wiring. I replaced the twisted connections with some crimp connectors, and the issue hasn't returned.




While poking around I also got a photo of the 'Death Pipe'. I think the filth is largely spray and drips from when I cleaned the valves. Other than that though it seems in reasonable nick, and given that many of the missing parts I have since replaced need to be removed when accessing the death pipe (Heat shield, Manifold support Bracket, even the Knock sensor wiring is in a similar area...) I wouldn't be surprised if it has been replaced at some point.
Alternatively, that could be wishful thinking, and in fact the rampage of disassembly is entirely random.
View attachment 123538
That is the knock sensor, secured with a bolt below the pipe for anyone wondering, in this picture, unplugged. (As far as I know the knock sensor is effectively just a piezo microphone, bolted to the block, that detects the vibrations caused by Knocking)
The big cast aluminium lower section of the exhaust manifold is the cat, I think. The ECU, via the knock sensor, detects the point at which the fuel/air mixture fires, and compares it with the point at which it should fire. Uses the info to adjust timing, and trigger a knock warning if appropriate. I think the sensor is an accelerometer, but not 100 % sure.
Mac.
 
The big cast aluminium lower section of the exhaust manifold is the cat, I think. The ECU, via the knock sensor, detects the point at which the fuel/air mixture fires, and compares it with the point at which it should fire. Uses the info to adjust timing, and trigger a knock warning if appropriate. I think the sensor is an accelerometer, but not 100 % sure.
Mac.
I’m talking about the intake manifold, the lower end of the upper piece droops down behind the injectors, and connects to a bracket that mounts in front of the death pipe.

The knock sensor being piezo was just a guess based on what I saw when I removed it looking for any problems
IMG_7578.jpeg
IMG_7577.jpeg

But upon a Google, I think it is the case at least for this style of sensor
IMG_8100.jpeg

But then again if one were being picky, I guess a piezo sensor is in some ways an accelerometer…
 
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Good Evening,

Take a bow, well done. Mac will present the services to FSI medal in due course.

For your information it looks like the death pipe is original. Fortunately the death pipe comes with a date stamp "clock face" which I read as 2002.
Suppose it could be 2012???

Andy
Ahh yeah I had completely missed the date stamps, nice spot!
I’ve just looked through my camera roll, and zooming in on one it seems to be stamped February 2015

IMG_8101.png

So not original but still almost as old as when it was when replaced the first time…
 
I’m talking about the intake manifold, the lower end of the upper piece droops down behind the injectors, and connects to a bracket that mounts in front of the death pipe.

The knock sensor being piezo was just a guess based on what I saw when I removed it looking for any problems
View attachment 123552View attachment 123553
But upon a Google, I think it is the case at least for this style of sensor View attachment 123555
But then again if one were being picky, I guess a piezo sensor is in some ways an accelerometer…
I think it's detecting the "impulse" on the piston at the instant of detonation.
Mechanical movement, (vibration), rather than sound. Probably is a piezo device.
Mac.
 
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Ahh yeah I had completely missed the date stamps, nice spot!
I’ve just looked through my camera roll, and zooming in on one it seems to be stamped February 2015

View attachment 123556
So not original but still almost as old as when it was when replaced the first time…
Good Morning,

You are quite correct, February 2015. It was late I made a right hash of reading it. It might well have been a year or two before it was fitted.

Okay for now then but getting on a bit, something perhaps to bear in mind if you have the thermostat housing off the block at some time.

Andy
 
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