TDi 75 AMF coolant leak from hoses tandem vacuum/fuel pump seals?

Well after some reflection I’ve decided to get some of the more difficult jobs done professionally, dependant on wether I only have a coolant or head gasket issue. Thanks to @justin-20V, I was able to source lots of parts much cheaper than the usual places and taking the advice of @audifan ordered a new expansion bottle (£13!) tandem pump and gasket. Massive thanks to @Clackers for getting me the NLA melted coolant pipe. Car goes in Friday PM and as long as the head gasket passes with flying colours, the work will begin on the coolant system and cam belt/water pump.

In the meantime there is more pipe work to source - I’m sure I will end up renewing most of the engine at this rate! Could anybody help to identify these two (probably) damaged pipes attached below (tarry looking black hose and metal flexi covered pipe)? The second picture is just to show the location better, behind the tandem pump passenger rear of engine bay.
 

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This parts diagram list most of the pipes...




This is a schematic of the cooling system. work back from this to the parts diagram...

Diagram of coolant hose connections
1630947973607.png

1 -Exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
q Exhaust gas recirculation cooler is only fitted on engines with code letters ATL
q Fitting of auxiliary heater depends on equipment level
2 -Bleeder screw
3 -Coolant pipe
4 -Heat exchanger
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
5 -Coolant pipe
6 -Coolant expansion tank
q With filler cap
q Checking pressure relief valve in filler cap → Anchor
7 -Coolant hose
8 -Bleeder screw
9 -Radiator
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
10 -Coolant hose
11 -Oil cooler
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
12 -Coolant pump/thermostat
q Removing and installing coolant pump → Chapter
q Checking thermostat → Chapter
q Removing and installing thermostat → Chapter
13 -Cylinder head/cylinder block
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
14 -Coolant pipe
q Going to heat exchanger on vehicles without exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater
15 -Coolant pipe
q To exhaust gas recirculation cooler or auxiliary heater


Hope this makes it a bit clearer.
 
Well a mixture of good and bad news from my mechanic - it (not come up with a name yet but Lazarus may eventually be appropriate) seems to already have a new alternator and cam belt and after my first real drive there is zero smoke coming out the back.

Unfortunately, he then gave me a long list of bad news…..air conditioning condenser - shot, radiator wet at the bottom - potentially shot, engine noisy and a bit rough, (well she has been stood in a field for a year) oil leaking from somewhere under the intercooler, tandem pump - shot, coolant hoses and expansion bottle - shot and worst of all, by far, k-seal or it’s equivalent has definitely been used.

His opinion was at first replacement engine, but then finding somebody to do this would be very difficult (WOM are tied up until next month earliest) and can I really trust mileage and warranty with a breaker engine?. It’s really impossible to tell for certain if the gasket is failing/blown with essentially no cooling system, so he told me not to pay him hundreds in labour to fix that, stop wasting time, roll up my sleeves and get on with it!

So, first off is to change the tricky oil cooler coolant pipe, followed by a lot of system flushes, until it looks (hopefully) somewhat clear and then some dishwasher tablet flushes too. I know we have some excellent threads already on that subject, but I will add some pictures of the process for information over the coming weeks, in case anybody might find it useful.

I was feeling pretty depressed on the drive home and very unwisely gave the turbo a couple of short bursts, luckily no overheating or other issues and great fun too. By the time I arrived home, the engine sounded much better, I had a massive grin on my face ? and suddenly remembered why I love these little cars so much. Wish me luck though - I think I’m going to need it…….
 
And so it begins…….excellent service from autodoc, shame they put the tandem pump on its side which has leaked some oil out now doh! Does anybody know if this oil needs replacing before fitting?
 

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No need to fill with oil. You did get an OEM quality gasket for the tandem, the one with the 2 blue tracts of silicone?
 
Finally got around to removing the ruined coolant pipe. 10mm (I think) nut with a 1/4” ratchet to remove the support bracket - which gives much better access - a good coating of oil on my arms and it’s off. Took around 20 minutes because of my broken hose clamp pliers. If only putting the replacement in is as straightforward ?. I’ve got the parts to remove the plastic pipe behind the bracket in the last picture - does anybody know if I can just unclip the hose clamp at the back and pull it straight out? It seems pretty welded in place.
 

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The plastic with the temperature sensor is held onto the block with 2 bolts and the rear hose was only a push fit onto the plastic. Trouble is the diesel has melted the hoses and now if you have replacement parts may be easier just cutting them off. Once the plastic housing is off, check it very carefully for cracking on the inside around the seal grooves. May be better just fitting a new housing and seal and be done with it.. Do not fit any replacement hoses until the tandem pump has been change as you do not want to splash diesel on the nice new hoses.
 
Thanks for that, I was mixing up the solid plastic tube with the rubber pipe above! (Which will also need replacing). I will have to run it for a short while, just to check head gasket has not gone - not much point fitting £150+ part if engine is knackered. Hopefully I can clean off the leaked diesel after testing and avoid any permanent damage to my new pipe ??
 
Very much at your own risk. I am saying this because I had a leaking LUK pump. Fitted my replacement hoses and the resealed LUK pump. Very short period of time later ... you guessed it ... the resealed tandem leaked out all over the new pipes. Result a replacement Bosch pump and a second set of hoses fitted.?
 
Well I will definitely bow to your experience on this one, as we already discussed on this thread, tandem pump replacement is not too bad even for a novice, so as the pipe I’m replacing is the proverbial rocking horse s?!t, I best do this as well. Worst case, the pump can be removed and sold without a massive loss. Best case, gasket is fine and another job sorted. Just need to find a little siphon kit to remove the diesel now.
 
What I did in 2017 was find Darwen Diesels. Carry out a search of my posts and you will find the part details. The End Plate Gasket is available separately...

A full Gasket Kit is available if needed. Alison has an AMF with LUK Tandem Pump...

Alison has now got to this mileage and I regularly clean and inspect her Engine Bay. No leaks or dampness in that area.
 

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What I did in 2017 was find Darwen Diesels. Carry out a search of my posts and you will find the part details. The End Plate Gasket is available separately...

A full Gasket Kit is available if needed. Alison has an AMF with LUK Tandem Pump...

Alison has now got to this mileage and I regularly clean and inspect her Engine Bay. No leaks or dampness in that area.
"Tandem Pumps - Darwen Diesels Ltd" https://www.darwendiesels.com/93-tandem-pumps

I think you need 18D2041. Otherwise a full set of seals will help.

A temporary repair was made to Alison using Bus Coolant Pipes. This lasted well.

I must have nabbed one of the last OEM parts new!
 
That’s impressive mileage - the second person I’ve seen to get the LUK pump so far. I ended up getting a Bosch pump and Elring gasket after several members had bad LUK (one for all you @Birchall fans) with gasket fixes. Fingers crossed it works as well as your gasket fix. Darwin Diesels look like a good option for spares ?
 
I also have a LUK pump which is maybe suspect. There seem to be plenty of secondhand Bosch pumps available. Do these just bolt on in the same way and does anyone know the significance of the letter at the end of the numbers?
 
That’s impressive mileage - the second person I’ve seen to get the LUK pump so far. I ended up getting a Bosch pump and Elring gasket after several members had bad LUK (one for all you @Birchall fans) with gasket fixes. Fingers crossed it works as well as your gasket fix. Darwin Diesels look like a good option for spares ?
Mileage as of now... Unfortunately I didn't make a note of mileage at the time of replacing the Gasket back in 2017...? ? ?
 

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Mileage as of now... Unfortunately I didn't make a note of mileage at the time of replacing the Gasket back in 2017...? ? ?
Did you just change the gasket where the pump bolts on to the cylinder head? I have looked at some pictures online but I cannot work out the function of the various mouldings. I see that the gasket is needed for the drive from the camshaft, to prevent oil coming out, but is it needed for the other parts other than to provide a flat surface for the unit to bolt on to the cylinder head? Obviously if fuel is leaking out under pressure back to the camshaft then changing the main gasket is not going to do anything, but if it forms some other sealing function it might be worth doing.
 
Did you just change the gasket where the pump bolts on to the cylinder head? I have looked at some pictures online but I cannot work out the function of the various mouldings. I see that the gasket is needed for the drive from the camshaft, to prevent oil coming out, but is it needed for the other parts other than to provide a flat surface for the unit to bolt on to the cylinder head? Obviously if fuel is leaking out under pressure back to the camshaft then changing the main gasket is not going to do anything, but if it forms some other sealing function it might be worth doing.
All I needed to replace was the end plate Gasket which I was repeatedly told was not available. Darwen do kits with all seals as well as separate end plate gaskets... ?
 
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