Shocking front shock quote

W

will26

Member
So... i haven't had the best start to the weekend....

Had done some shopping and came back to a flat tyre. I got the car into a local tyre centre and got it fixed. I asked the guy whether he could get the car on the ramp to see if he could see anything loose that might cause a rattle - i had gone over a pothole on the motorway a week ago and the car had been sounding like a bag of nails!. He identified the nearside drop link had 'play' in it. This stacked up as the MOT (Jan 22) identified 'Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a)'. he could get it fixed for £90 + tracking (if needed).

When on the ramp, he also saw that the Offside front shock had snapped. He pulled out a bit of coil! - this was probably the main cause of the rattle as it sounded like it was on the driver's side. He said the springs on both sides had deteriorated, leaking and needed replacing. The quote to replace these and the drop link would be £455! Ive booked it in for next week but now mulling options.

so does this seem a crazy amount?
Does the leaking only shock need replacing? I guess can see the benefit or doing the pair together?
Should my local garage have picked the leaks up when they did the MOT? To be honest im becoming less and less impressed with the garage i have taken the car to for years...

i had the NSF suspension spring fitted in 08.2017
and as part of a service, they carried out a suspension check in 11.2020
now it needs replacing

I have the car booked in at VASS in Bath (thanks to someone on here making me aware of them) for a general checkup (there are unfortunately many things wrong with the car) on the 24th of March.. we don't drive it much and wonder whether the work can wait? And whether the cost might be more reasonable?

Lastly, i can see from other forum posts there is a lot of A2 owner who have problems with the suspension. I'm keen to get quality parts (pay cheap, pay twice etc) these look good for the drop link (linkage ball joints) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30359167...926628&hash=item46af796264:g:vVEAAOSwUfdiBQYG

utterly confused with what suspension coils I should get, however.

I would really appreciate any advice.
 
There is a thread on here which has all the codes and spring info. Someone will find it. Basically there are two rear springs for wether you have a glass roof or not and then there are sport and se springs and shocks.
Regarding the condition, a leaking shock and broken spring should really be fixed ASAP, wet shocks should be highlighted on an mot or inspection yes. The cheapest option is to fit coilovers such as stance or jom, however that's not oem. Get a few quotes or ask on here for recommendations. The broken spring may have popped the tyre, I've had that before. Best of luck sorting it out and sorry you've had some bad luck.
 

The Definitive Suspension Parts List

If you're looking to do a complete suspension overhaul, you'll need a collection of miscellaneous parts. The purpose of this thread is to keep an up-to-date list of part numbers. Choose your dampers, springs and drop links and add the following for a complete renewal of the suspension. 6N0 412...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net
 
I would change both shocks and both drop links (other eBay sellers offer better value on Meyle HD pairs) Do the springs need changing? I'm unclear, since you've been advised that the springs are "leaking", but springs don't leak, that's the shocks.

Spring failure is a pretty random event and unless the spring is heavily corroded, no way of predicting it. NSF spring failure is probably the most common of the four, and indicates that you've recently hit some sort of obstacle such as that motorway pothole This would also explain the now leaking NSF shock absorber.

Your MOT assures you that the car was roadworthy on the date it was carried out, and no more than that.

You'll get better advice from VASS than from any local tyre centre. Just be cautious over how you drive if you hold back on the work until they see it on the 24th.
 
Last edited:
A2Steve said:
That’s a ludicrous quote. If you are willing to travel to Aberdare then there’s a garage up here that would be about half that quote and they actually know what they are doing.
Click to expand...
Tell me more! Could combine with a lovely walk over that way! Are they audi specialists?
 
will26 said:
So... i haven't had the best start to the weekend....

Had done some shopping and came back to a flat tyre. I got the car into a local tyre centre and got it fixed. I asked the guy whether he could get the car on the ramp to see if he could see anything loose that might cause a rattle - i had gone over a pothole on the motorway a week ago and the car had been sounding like a bag of nails!. He identified the nearside drop link had 'play' in it. This stacked up as the MOT (Jan 22) identified 'Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a)'. he could get it fixed for £90 + tracking (if needed).

When on the ramp, he also saw that the Offside front shock had snapped. He pulled out a bit of coil! - this was probably the main cause of the rattle as it sounded like it was on the driver's side. He said the springs on both sides had deteriorated, leaking and needed replacing. The quote to replace these and the drop link would be £455! Ive booked it in for next week but now mulling options.

so does this seem a crazy amount?
Does the leaking only shock need replacing? I guess can see the benefit or doing the pair together?
Should my local garage have picked the leaks up when they did the MOT? To be honest im becoming less and less impressed with the garage i have taken the car to for years...

i had the NSF suspension spring fitted in 08.2017
and as part of a service, they carried out a suspension check in 11.2020
now it needs replacing

I have the car booked in at VASS in Bath (thanks to someone on here making me aware of them) for a general checkup (there are unfortunately many things wrong with the car) on the 24th of March.. we don't drive it much and wonder whether the work can wait? And whether the cost might be more reasonable?

Lastly, i can see from other forum posts there is a lot of A2 owner who have problems with the suspension. I'm keen to get quality parts (pay cheap, pay twice etc) these look good for the drop link (linkage ball joints) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303591678564?fits=Car+Make:Audi|Model:A2&epid=248926628&hash=item46af796264:g:vVEAAOSwUfdiBQYG

utterly confused with what suspension coils I should get, however.

I would really appreciate any advice.
Click to expand...
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/the-definitive-suspension-parts-list.27044/.
Remember though most garages will not fit customer’s parts unless you know them well. I recommend autodoc, but you have to wait for a good discount (37-38% seems highest they do) then a good 4-5 working days for delivery from Germany. If you don’t have that luxury you can still get good info by putting in your reg on the app, to get a list of parts and part numbers with prices. From that, you can probably work out the labour this garage is charging you as £455 does seem very steep to me, though again, the garages can’t afford to wait that long for parts either!
 
Hi,
Yep the springs need replacing too... Here is the bit that was causing the rattle!

Sorry meant to say the garage said the shocks are leaking. (not springs)
 
Those are the drop links of choice, i got a pair of the HD ones from murrys direct on ebay for around £27
Does your quote include top suspension mounts? I got kyb springs and top mounts with sachs/trw shocks (yes its a bit odd i fitted different shocks but a bargains a bargain!)
Was approx £110 in parts thats additional to the drop links
 
if you're getting the drop links replaced, it makes sense to replace the Anti-roll bar bushes at the same time - Febi Bilstein actually do an entire kit comprising drop links, arb rubbers, holder and securing bolts (part number either 37077 or 37079 depending on the ARB diameter). If the shocks and springs are being done as well seriously consider replacing the top strut bearings while they are out as it is a no brainer to do these at the same time. I've used Bilstein B4 shocks on all of ours, B3 springs on the rear. Front springs are a bit more complicated depending on exactly which engine and model you have - there are a number of threads to explain this - look particularly for posts from @carlston .

Which springs do you need? If your front springs are original there should be coloured paint dots on them. If they aren't original, you may be able to work it out from your car's build label codes (in the battery well or rear of your log book).

At this age, if they've not been done it is commonplace to need to change the shocks and most of the other bits in each strut - I've had it done on all three of our cars and it does make a huge difference getting rid of clunks and rattles from the front end.
 
Robin_Cox said:
if you're getting the drop links replaced, it makes sense to replace the Anti-roll bar bushes at the same time - Febi Bilstein actually do an entire kit comprising drop links, arb rubbers, holder and securing bolts (part number either 37077 or 37079 depending on the ARB diameter). If the shocks and springs are being done as well seriously consider replacing the top strut bearings while they are out as it is a no brainer to do these at the same time.

At this age, if they've not been done it is commonplace to need to change the shocks and most of the other bits in each strut - I've had it done on all three of our cars and it does make a huge difference getting rid of clunks and rattles from the front end.
Click to expand...
Not a Febi lover myself but ok on parts that should they fail wont kill you!
 
This thread is all over the place so I went back to the original question which is the same.
Basically I think there were two problems, a flat (fixed)! and a rattle?
Had to go back and read it again, front shocks don’t snap and, having read it again, springs don’t leak. Also bits of shock are more likely bits of spring which wouldn’t still be there anyway. Having read the post yet again tracking and arb links are two separate issues.
Now I’m not going to advise you to drive a defective car, but is it defective? Take it back to your MOT tester and tell them it’s a bit rattily. They should be interested having passed it with an advisory. I think that is what the original post suggests? Get a second trusted opinion. Drive very cautiously until you actually know what is going on with your car. It may be significant, there may be nothing.
 
Last edited:
Woke up thinking about this one, here are a few thoughts:

Broken springs, depending where they break you will or will not notice the defect while driving. At the bottom or top and the slightly shorter spring goes unnoticed. In the middle there is a drop in ride height and when turning a pinging or grinding noise, on front springs. The fitter showed you a top or bottom break, I've had several such breaks on cars but never noticed until doing my pre MOT checks.

Leaking shocks, never had that on my A2. Done a quick check and the vast majority are gas pressure shocks. I've had them deteriorate on several cars but never had a visible leak. They tend to fade with time and the car wallows around too much or they lock up on sharp bumps. Only ever had classic mini oil filled shocks leak oil.

ARB links are a 60 minute DIY job, a garage can do it much quicker. ARB links are about £15. They will rattle over bumps but otherwise you wont notice and advisory link problem on smooth roads. Arb link replacement has no impact on tracking, tracking issues would be noticed via tyre wear or through handling issues.

Now at risk of being drummed out, A2 is not a performance car so I would happily replace springs on just one side, with the same brand and part number. Also shocks but only if the failure was premature and I could source the same brand and part number. Never with brakes.

I've only ever bought springs from Audi, but I have a tow bar so the springs are tow car specific. They are more expensive but they last such a long time, my original springs managed around 150K miles. Springs do not fail often.

I think if one of your shocks are shot then you need two (they are getting on a bit), if both shocks are being replaced and one spring is broken then go for two springs. Don't also forget top mounts, if they are gritty replace them.

I still stick with my advice of last night though. Take care driving and get a second opinion asap. If the faults are confirmed get a second price, if not then problem solved.
 
It was I who mentioned VASS, they really do know their stuff. Your other bods with their leaking springs and snapped shocks sound a bit "Oh dear".
My thoughts on them and those like them are not suitable for polite company.

Good luck.
 
hi all,

Firstly thank you all so much for your input!

i don't think the garage quoted for replacing the whole front suspension. the £455 was just for the springs, shocks and drop link. needless to say im not going to go with them.

but truth be told (if it's not obvious already) I really don't know what im talking about.

It was probably me confusing the issues with shocks and springs.

I was hoping for a cheap fix but i think this is going to cost hundreds of pounds wherever i go.
A2 steve - Thanks for the recommendation of the garage over in Wales but maybe some other time. i think its too far to drive with the car in its current state...

Robin - thanks for the info. I had a look at the springs.
OSF - two red, two yellow dots (the one thats gone - see the bit that snapped off attached. this looks like one end of the spring)
NSF - {this one was replaced with a 'new' one 4 years ago} It's really rusty! no dots, just a code in green lettering .. something like : 78001 T426905
will the attached pic of the stricker on the battery compartment tell me what springs I need? I can't seem to find the corresponding info on Crispyedds post

Froggy - Thanks for the autodoc link. I need to figure out what parts i need.... p.s: I'm not sure if you know but if buying through quidco.co.uk you can get up to 8.8% cashback. every penny!

Howey - that's all im after!

Chris - wow. thank you so much for your kind offer. id love to take you up on it if there is a day/ time that suits you?

Phil - Thanks for your thoughts. Arb link replacement has no impact on tracking, tracking issues would be noticed via tyre wear or through handling issues. i suspected this might have been true!... will not be driving the car in the meantime.

Simon - perfect... im tired of dodgy garages, and so is my A2! i need to give it more TLC
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2022-03-13 131450.jpg
    Screenshot 2022-03-13 131450.jpg
    263.8 KB · Views: 91
  • Screenshot 2022-03-13 141036.jpg
    Screenshot 2022-03-13 141036.jpg
    131.8 KB · Views: 91
The picture of the fitigued spring is exactly what I thought you had been presented with. That is the type of failure I have driven around on for months without knowing.
You need to know why your car sounds like a bag of nails. I would be surprised if it were that spring or the arb link.
 
hi Phil. it was the loose bit of spring that was causing the metal-on-metal rattling sound. since it was removed yesterday, the car sounds way better. theres still a knocking sound from the play in the worn drop link which i'll get fixed in time.

That is the type of failure I have driven around on for months without knowing. Thats encouraging to know (in a funny sort of way) maybe the work to the car isnt so urgent?
 
will26 said:
hi Phil. it was the loose bit of spring that was causing the metal-on-metal rattling sound. since it was removed yesterday, the car sounds way better. theres still a knocking sound from the play in the worn drop link which i'll get fixed in time.

That is the type of failure I have driven around on for months without knowing. Thats encouraging to know (in a funny sort of way) maybe the work to the car isnt so urgent?
Click to expand...
You need to ensure that the spring is still secure before using the car. The last thing you want is to drive the car and then find the spring moves, as it could puncture the tyre!
Could you post a photo to show the broken part of the spring and how it's sitting on the strut? No need to remove the wheel, just turn the steering and you should be able to see it that way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top