1,2 tdi 3l

Hello ,
I'm new on this forum .Im from Romania so please excuse my broken english.I recently bought a vw Lupo 3l with 222000 km on board.I read all that i could find about 3l cars but i still have some issues finding some answers about things like :
1.When i open the door the hydraulic pump doesn't start .It starts only when i put the ignition on , i wait for about 20 sec ,time in which i hear the pump working on different tones ,after i start the car .
Note: i can start the car after 5 seconds even if the pump is still running after 1 night standing . If i open the door the light appears on so the door switch is good.Is it normal for the pump not to start with the door open ?
Also is it normal for the hydraulic pump to start every 30 seconds if i leave the ignition on ? If i stop the car for 10 min , if i wanna start the car i can hear the pump running , not for 20 sec but like 5 too 10 seconds .
With the car off i can switch 5 to 6 times before the pump starts.I don't see any leaks
Hydraulic level is ok , i checked the level with the pressure accumulator unscrewed .
One more problem that ill try to describe is this .Changing gear up like 1 2 3 4 its ok and it sounds natural but when downgrading ,the car makes strange sounds like its trying brake the motor mounts , which are new , and i can hear some rattling noise too , and from time to time like a resort sound.All the procedure for the clutch has been done the value is 1.86 ,Gear Actuator Adaptation also creep adaptation . also when im cruising in eco ,gliding whiteout gas pedal pressed i can hear a grinding noise. I have a feeling that the clutch don't discing fully or something .
PS i ll try a new adaptation for the clutch since the vw guys loosen only the first nut and didn't press the brake pedal to see if the values are staying.
 
Hi,

Welcome and no need to apologise about your English, it is good !!

As for the 1.2 we have a couple of people on the forum that are VERY knowledgeable about that great model of A2.

I am sure that one will be along shortly.

Could you post some pictures of the car please? we like to see other members cars!!!

Steve B
 
Hi Remus,

As per your PM, there is a separate switch for the pump on the driver's door (otherwise the passenger door would start the pump). Check for bad connections but you may need a new switch.

The pump should not run every 30 seconds without gear changes and/or the engine not running. You either have a faulty pressure sensor or an internal leak. The internal leak would probably be in the gear actuator but there's not much you can do about that apart from replacing it. An accumulator without much gas left in it would cause this problem but that is obviously not the case if you can manage 5 or 6 changes.

For the gear changing problem, you should do (as always) a complete adaptation. If that doesn't cure it, you may have clutch problems, possibly a worn guide sleeve.

RAB
 
Hello again ,
Did a complete adaptation today again , and this time i loosen both lock nuts and i rotate the one with plastic on to the left 6 times ,after that i readjusted the cable until i got the 1.82 value , i struggled a little because every time i pressed the brake the value changed from 3.71 when i hold pressed the brake to 1,90 1,86 and finally 1,82 . After that i tried to continue the procedure but vag quite on me don't know why and at that moment i didn't knew that so i got scared and rotate back that plastic lock nut and readjusted again until i got 1,82 value back ,but this time when i pressed the brake pedal the value didn't change anymore to 3,something it just stayed in the same value i adjusted .
Results , that rattling noise like resort its more loud , and now in 5th gear at 80 km and 1100-1200 with the throttle pedal fixed(not accelerating ) i hear the same sound.If i accelerate even slightly the sound dissapear.
There is oil coming through the rubber of the cable clutch ,and right where gear actuator nut is but i can't pin point the actually leak. I will clean everything and try to see from where the oil leaks.
Question - could this sound I'm hearing is related to the procedure i did ? Did i did something wrong ? If there is gear actuator leaks what oil level should i check gearbox oil or the hydraulic oil next to the pump . I don't wanna run the car with dry gearbox.
I will put some pictures with the car, right now I'm pretty down from the news . Don't think this will be an easy fix or a cheap one , not to mention that i can't find mechanics to this and trust them ...
Forgot to say , i don't have any single error.
When i bought the car there was oil right under the reservoir of hydraulic pump , and noticed that they overfill the reservoir , clean it and kept an eye on that , and it didn't leak until this day .Thought that the oil from under was from the same place .I will clean everything tomorrow and i will keep you posted.
 
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Hi Remus,

Your PM makes everything clear now. The two nuts you refer to are on the clutch actuator cable. What the ADJUST instructions refer to is the nut on the linkage between the gearbox (not clutch) actuator and the gearbox. This is underneath the car, behind the sump. You have to remove the cover under the engine to access it.

This means that you (or the VW people presumably) have NOT adjusted the gearbox linkage. This might explain why your gear changes are problematic.

RAB
 
Hello
This is what i do when doing the gearbox adaptation

First i do this

Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation
[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Block 002
[Go!]
Remove connector from hydraulic unit.
Check field 2, specification is 1.8...2.0 V.

My value is always on chart , right now is 1.84 ,but i go along loosening the 2 nuts . I say two because there is one narrow nut that holds the big plastic one from bellow .For this i use 13 rench. so as i was telling first i loosen the narrow one ,facing the car i rotate it to the left until i can unscrew it with my hand .After that i rotate with my hand facing the car to the left the other 13 bigger plastic one .After that i have some off charts value so i adjust the 10 screw until i have the desire parameter .The reason i was pressing the brake pedal is because i saw that every time i slightly touch the cable and it moves , not rotating just moving i had some very slightly values +- 0.2 so i thought that pressing the brake will stabilise the cable .after this i screw back the little borrow 13 nut and continue the procedure bellow.
Note before i went to vw i didn't have that rattling noise (like a head shaft in a U turn ) when the gearbox down shifted , but they only unscrew the narrow 13 nut and adjusted the 10 screw , actually i had 1.82 value when i went to them and left with 1.89.

If the specification is not reached, adjust the Clutch Travel Sender (G162).
Re-attach connector to hydraulic unit.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Cycle ignition OFF/ON.
[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Fault Codes - 08]
[Clear Codes - 05]
[Done, Go Back]


After this all is going according to this
[Basic Setting - 04]
Block 014
[Go!]
1st field should change from WAIT to ADJUST.
Loosen the gear actuator nut and tighten it with zero-potential.

For this i unmount the motor shield under the car and i unscrew the 13 nut under the linkage of what i suppose to be gear actuator ,then i retitght it.
Then i
Switch selector lever in E or D and back to Tiptronic Mode.
1st field should show WAIT now, transmission now does some shifts, you can monitor them in field 2 (Range: 0...28).

After the 28 next stepped is skipped don't know why but program jumps right to

1st field should change from WAIT to (-), pull the selector lever to Minus and hold it for 5 seconds.
1st field should show STOP now, put the selector lever in position STOP and wait 5 seconds.

here - Kickdown ,don't have the - and stop message

1st field should show KickDown now, floor the accelerator pedal completely (to kick down) and wait 5 seconds.
1st field should show N now, put the selector lever in position N.
1st field should show StartMot now, start the engine and let it idle 15 seconds.
1st field should change from SEARCHNG to IGN.OFF, put the selector lever in Position STOP.
Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds.

After this i do the creep point exactly like here

Creep Point Adaptation
[Select]
[02 - Transmission]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Block 025
[Go!]
Start the engine, engage the handbrake and press the foot brake.
Put the selector lever in position E or D.
You can determine the number of creep points left in field 3. It should start at 5 and count down to 0.
Release the brake pedal for at least 3 seconds, press the brake pedal again and hold it for at least 3 seconds.
Repeat the last step until field 3 shows 0.
If the specified value in field 3 is not reached, check fault codes and perform basic setting again.
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

I don't have any errors during procedure , and the car don't have any errors at all.Shifts through all gears , starts in stop , starts in N , if i put it D it starts if i lift the brake pedal . Only problems i have with the car until now is the strange noises that the car does when downshifting , and when i drive with low rpms at 1100-1300 and only if i keep the throttle stady ,if i accelerate the noise dissapears .on 1400 rpms and up don't have any noises no matter what i do . If i didn't hear the same noise when i down shifting i would think that something is vibrating ,but everything is tight and nothing is loose.And noises first came after visiting vw shop.

What am i doing wrong and where the sounds could came from.
 
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