1,2 TDI clutch/ gearbox problems

Hello and welcome to the forum...I do like the photo of the 3L and hopefully RAB will be able to help. We are lucky to have him here ?
 
Not a RAB, but some questions etc:

1: If starter is making noise, then it already should have go-ahead from gearbox and engine ECU-s. Battery OK? Starter OK? And wiring from battery to starter OK? Maybe some connection acting up. Does it always start after first stop and fails after second stop. Does it try to rotate engine or just the starter noise? How long will it try to start?
If it would be some kind of fault triggering, then there would be some error probably stored in ecu-s. So i'd let it fail and read codes in that failed state, ignition would be on anyway. Delete them and retest if needed, since it should be easy to replicate.

2: Do you have standard actuator? I have actuator upgraded with hall sensor, not with original potentiometer. 1.8V was not normal for me, if i remember correctly i finally found it acceptable near 1.4V. Even if trying different voltage, i'd do it step by step, adapt, test, another step. With original actuator it should probably be as instruction dictates.

But my car has not failed after initial repairs, so my experience is limited to only one fault related to gearbox. So you'll get asked better questions soon probably....
 
hello, maxufeiss

engine automatic start fails only in start-stop (eco) mode. As i wrote, it just triggers starter and nothing happens. Then i put gear in N, switch off ignition, switch on ignition and start with key. I mean, start engine with key never fails, because wiring is OK, I have changed starter brushes, repaired rotor, changed solenoid.

I also temporary connected indicator light to starter signal - in eco mode to start engine it gives very short impulse only.

about clutch actuator - Yes, i have standard actuator. I have seen upgrade to hall contactless sensor. How much it cost? should i send my old for upgrade, or i can buy allready upgraded?
thanks
 
Hi Modrs, welcome to the forum.

The engine turning over without running suggests two possibilities to me:

1). Communications between the gearbox control unit and the engine control unit are failing. This will cause fault code 01314. Remove connectors from GCU and ECU (under the scuttle, remove wipers and remove plastic cover for access) and spray connections with switch cleaner. Take care with the cover as it is awkward to remove and easily broken. It might help if you leave the negative post of the battery disconnected overnight. Also make sure that drains at either end of this area are clear, because the windscreen drains into this area.

2). There might be a problem with the fuel supply. Have you changed the fuel filter since you bought the car? Get the fuel pump tested. Fuel pressure at 1500rpm should be 3.5barg - there is a test port on the pump.

If your clutch is original, it is probably not far off failing. If you have some adjustment (thread showing at the end of clutch cable) left the clutch plate is not the problem but the guide sleeve and release bearing will be near their end of life.

The Hill factor is a value calculated within the unit.

Get your clutch actuators upgraded to the Hall sensor option - contact Mankmil on the German forum (a2-freun.de), English is no problem. This is cheaper than buying new actuators, which will eventually have the same problem.

RAB
 
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Hi Modrs, welcome to the forum.

The engine turning over without running suggests two possibilities to me:

1). Communications between the gearbox control unit and the engine control unit are failing. This will cause fault code 01314. Remove connectors from GCU and ECU (under the scuttle, remove wipers and remove plastic cover for access) and spray connections with switch cleaner. Take care with the cover as it is awkward to remove and easily broken. It might help if you leave the negative post of the battery disconnected overnight. Also make sure that drains at either end of this area are clear, because the windscreen drains into this area.

2). There might be a problem with the fuel supply. Have you changed the fuel filter since you bought the car? Get the fuel pump tested. Fuel pressure at 1500rpm should be 3.5barg - there is a test port on the pump.

If your clutch is original, it is probably not far off failing. If you have some adjustment (thread showing at the end of clutch cable) left the clutch plate is not the problem but the guide sleeve and release bearing will be near their end of life.

The Hill factor is an option for starting on hills but does not apply to a 3L, as far as I know. If you're tempted to change it, make a note of the original setting. Get your clutch actuators upgraded to the Hall sensor option - contact Mankmil on the German forum (a2-freun.de), English is no problem. This is cheaper than buying new actuators, which will eventually have the same problem.

RAB

Hello, Rab
When start-stop fails, there is no any faults in VCDS. GCU and ECU connectors has been inspected when i was spending a lot of time to solve all problems (RTMF12, incorrectly connected, gear actuator solenoid valves and g239/g240 sensors). there is everything in perfect condition.
All filters i have changed, and i don't think there is any problem.
I more and more looking on clutch actuator. Maybe start stop fails because GCU thinks, that cluth is not disengaged? As i wrote - in eco car stops, but when i release brake, starter gets very short impulse only (0,xx seconds max). and its not enough to engage starter and turn motor.
But today i discovered spring between holes, where is caliper. And its fitted to my last lupo, but not for that, which fails in start stop and which slips clutch. Should it be here?

index.php

next days i will install spring, check clutch wear with caliper(as in picture shown), adjust tension, re-adapt clutch
All my problems are because i have purchased cars, whos were repaired by totally wrong mechanics in totally wrong service stations. For example - not only broken plugs, wrong connected plugs, but also wrong assembled pistons, pinions, shafts, alignment betveen roker arms, levers and hall sensors etc. BTW i have totally recovered 3 lupos - 2 of them i own, 3rd is for my friend.
 
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Usually a sign of a failing clutch actuator (faulty potentiometer) is failing to start in P but successfully starting in N. No harm in updating to a Hall sensor. Just send the sensor end to Mankmil, not the whole assembly. The spring is for an assembly in transit, it stops the clutch arm from rattling around - it's too weak to contribute anything to clutch movement. That's why it's not available as a spare part.

Just to be sure, have you checked the hydraulic oil level in the reservoir and the accumulator function?

RAB
 
i can start engine only in N. that confirms faulty sensor......

btw, what is STOP function? For me it only stops engine

is somewhere avaiable more info about gear selector?
 
Just my guess: Stop function on gear lever is stopping the car as soon you arrive at destination, so no fuel will be wasted. Since first thing i do at arriving destination is putting gearlever in Stop position, not reaching for the key, it works well.
And it also puts car in first gear and releases clutch. I often notice that parking on hill.... Starting the car and putting it in neutral makes it roll if handbrake not very strongly applied.
Probably they called it as STOP because that describes it best. It's not Park, since you'd still have to pull handbrake and it does not have locking mechanism like automatics do...

Like i understand you have 2 cars, i'd swap the actuators. At least on A2 it's pretty easy and accessible thing to do without much oil loss. Don't know about Lupo. Failure should be transferred too. But it is probably failing.
 
Yes, i have two lupos. the blue one is daily driving for my wife as she hates manual gearbox. And its she's first car. Both we like that car. As i wrote, i had several failures. I have some critical spare parts but then i saw another lupo for 500 euros. In Latvia lupo original wheels costs at least 250 euros. So there was no doubt to buy it :D It is scrappy, i did welding, reassembled and repaired actuator. it was standing in service for 6 years. next days plan is to get technical inspection and use it as winterbeater
It looks that no one in Latvia can solve rtmf12.
Few minutes ago i had offer from mankmil. I will swap clutch actuators and send to mankmil ASAP.

and if i put in STOP, it looks like it shifts ir 5th gear
 
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First gear should be logical, since it has most stopping power, but have not really verified it.

In Estonia, i don't even rely for someone to be able to repair it. Mine broke down in Latvia too, maybe it's contagious. Towed it home on flatbed and repaired there (clutch actuator).
 
In P position, 1st gear should be selected and the clutch closed. With the ignition off, the lever is locked in the P position. In P position with the ignition on, 1st gear is still selected but pressing the foot brake opens the clutch, allowing engine start. With the ignition on and foot on the brake, the lever can be moved to neutral, allowing starting without a foot on the foot brake. That's why you cannot start the engine without a working brake switch.

RTFM 12 is usually caused by play in the ball joints on the gear actuator or an incorrectly adjusted linkage. For the latter, loosen the domed nut, allow it to find its natural position and then tighten, taking care not to alter the position.

RAB
 
i understand correctly- it should be able to start engine in P as well?

edit: Yes, winterbeater starts also in P. Definetely i will upgrade actuator?

ok, brake switch i understand, but what function does brake pressure switch?
 
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Brake pressure is one of the conditions for shutting down the engine automatically.

RAB
 
Hello,
Is it possible to buy new gate selection lever? Mine is seriously wobling and it is not possible to tighten anymore..

a2-4426.png
 
That doesn't appear to be an equivalent. Why not use the correct part? About €20 or less.

RAB
 
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