1,2 TDI clutch/ gearbox problems

spike said:
I think its more to do with the vagcom lead rather than the software. Some of the copy leads using the free V.409 software seem to do just about everything the genuine lead will do and others just don't connect to many of the modules.


Cheers Spike
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Hi,

Could you please tell me the procedure of clutch adjustment?

Regards,
MD
 
audia23l said:
I had exactly the same problem with the same error codes. The pump unit was faulty. Does yours intermittently run on continuously when the engine is off? It makes a low purring sound, not nearly as loud as when it is building up pressure.

Unfortunately it took Audi some time to diagnose the problem even after I told them about the pump running on and not building pressure. They needlessly replaced the ECU, clutch, the clutch and gear actuators. After all this the A2 stopped like yours. It just coasted to a halt in neutral and would not restart. Finally they replaced the complete power pack unit and it has operated perfectly for the last 60k km.

I believe the brushes in the motor wear. It will get worse and will ultimately refuse to start.

audia23l
Click to expand...

The low purring sound may be the clutch actuator keeping the clutch open - more of a hum? The engine will not start if there is insufficient pressure or any fault, for safety reasons. Lack of pressure may also be due to an expired accumulator, which is part of the hydraulic unit.

The problem is that the diagnostic system is not up to the job. A few weeks ago one of our Lupo 3L's 'lost' it's creep adaptation settings. Putting it into gear made the engine stall instantly after a 'bunny jump'. No error codes produced. A basic setting cured it.

RAB
 
Not sure that I understand the question! Remove the hydraulic unit electrical connector before checking/adjusting the clutch and then replace it.

RAB
 
The ignition is on during the whole procedure with the engine running only when required. A battery charger is usually connected to maintain battery voltage during the procedure.

RAB
 
RAB said:
The ignition is on during the whole procedure with the engine running only when required. A battery charger is usually connected to maintain battery voltage during the procedure.

RAB
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Thank you RAB,

I mean that, disconnecting the hydraulic unit when the switch is in ON position, would damage the ECU?

Regards,
MD
 
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mehdoosttalab said:
Thank you RAB,

I mean that disconnection the hydraulic unit when the switch is in ON position, would damage the ECU?

Regards,
MD
Click to expand...

I doubt it, but you can always disconnect before switching the ignition on.

RAB
 
RAB said:
I doubt it, but you can always disconnect before switching the ignition on.

RAB
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Hi RAB,

I started to calibrate the clutch but, when I set the voltage to 1.85 volt (actually there are 3 voltage indicators, the first one shows 0, second one [which I used as a reference] changes with movement of clutch and the third one shows 12 volt), buy turning the clutch wire clockwise, the clutch wire became loose, so by pressing the break in stop position, nothing would happen, just the stop light flashes, but when I pull the wire by hand (making the wire tight), it made itself tight and then I would be able to change the gears, but the starter would not work.

If I set the voltage to 0.6 volt in stop position (or in D position, which recommended by VW for clutch calibration) and not to press the break pedal, the wire is tight enough and I would be able to change the gears. Note that the first voltage was 1.05 V (and I had no problems with starter), but if I set the voltage again to 1.05, the I would not be able to change the gears.

I don not know what happed to me! Now every thing goes wrong!
 
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It's the second block that's important and does change with adjustment. Set the correct voltage (1.8 to 2.0v) with the electrical connection to the hydraulic unit removed. Then re-connect the connection and then perform the remainder of the procedure to the end, following the procedure to the letter. You have to complete all three in succession, Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation, Gear Actuator Adaptation and Creep Point Adaptation. Unless you complete all three successfully, the starter motor will not operate.

If you have problems setting the above voltage, you may have a faulty clutch actuator.

RAB
 
RAB said:
It's the second block that's important and does change with adjustment. Set the correct voltage (1.8 to 2.0v) with the electrical connection to the hydraulic unit removed. Then re-connect the connection and then perform the remainder of the procedure to the end, following the procedure to the letter. You have to complete all three in succession, Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation, Gear Actuator Adaptation and Creep Point Adaptation. Unless you complete all three successfully, the starter motor will not operate.

If you have problems setting the above voltage, you may have a faulty clutch actuator.

RAB
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Hi RAB,

thank you for your instructions. If I adjust the clutch to 1.8 to 2.0 V, during the time I would have drop in voltage or increase in voltage?

The problem is I can not start the car for Creep point adaptation!
When I started the clutch adjustment, the voltage was 1.05V, now if I adjust it again to 1.05 V the clutch will not work, and I have to decrease it to 0.6 V. Do you have any idea about this condition?

Thanks
MD
 
With the electrical connector to the hydraulic unit disconnected, the block 002 voltage should be stable. If it is not, it indicates a faulty clutch actuator. But as soon as you re-connect, the reading will be lost anyway - from memory it changes to about 4v.

If everything has been done correctly and to the letter, failure to start before creep point adaptation suggests that error codes have been raised, in which case you will have to start from the beginning again. Do not ignore loosening the gear actuator nut and re-tightening it - this may lead to failure of the gear actuator adaptation. Are you able to start the engine at the end of gear actuator adaptation and if so, does SEARCHNG change to IGN.OFF? If so take care to switch off ignition and wait at least 15secs before re-starting for creep point adaptation.

RAB
 
The 1.05v reading shows that the clutch (assuming that the clutch actuator is OK) is very much in need of adjustment. When was the last basic setting done? When the car was built I suspect! Why are you adjusting it back to 1.05v and not to between 1.8 and 2v? Once you have started a basic setting, the previous settings are all lost, so the only option is a new, correctly done setting.

RAB
 
RAB said:
With the electrical connector to the hydraulic unit disconnected, the block 002 voltage should be stable. If it is not, it indicates a faulty clutch actuator. But as soon as you re-connect, the reading will be lost anyway - from memory it changes to about 4v.

If everything has been done correctly and to the letter, failure to start before creep point adaptation suggests that error codes have been raised, in which case you will have to start from the beginning again. Do not ignore loosening the gear actuator nut and re-tightening it - this may lead to failure of the gear actuator adaptation. Are you able to start the engine at the end of gear actuator adaptation and if so, does SEARCHNG change to IGN.OFF? If so take care to switch off ignition and wait at least 15secs before re-starting for creep point adaptation.

RAB
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Hi RAB,

thank you again. The second block always shows the stable and exactly the same value for the following conditions:

1- Disconnected hydraulic unit
2- Connected hydraulic unit-gear lever in stop position or in D position-not a pressed break pedal.

Accentually there is no change in voltage when I reconnect the hydraulic unit connector. When I press the brake, in D mode, the voltage changed from 1.05 V to around 2.55 V
 
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RAB said:
The 1.05v reading shows that the clutch (assuming that the clutch actuator is OK) is very much in need of adjustment. When was the last basic setting done? When the car was built I suspect! Why are you adjusting it back to 1.05v and not to between 1.8 and 2v? Once you have started a basic setting, the previous settings are all lost, so the only option is a new, correctly done setting.

RAB
Click to expand...


I thought that I could do the basic setting with the 20 € vag com cable, but I was wrong, so I just tried to adjust the clutch. If I set the voltage between 1.8 to 2.0 V, the clutch cable will be too loose (and I will have the error code of open circuit for valve for clutch actuator N255) and for example when I move the gear lever from stop to R, N etc, there will be no reaction from clutch, unless I pull the clutch cable with hand, then the clutch actuator will pull the cable and made itself tight.

I bought the car last year with 126000 Km condition, now it is 154000 Km, and every check was done by VW workshop. I don not know why they never did it.
 
Have you checked the hydraulic oil level in the reservoir with the hydraulic unit disconnected and the accumulator loosened by half a turn? Is the pump working? When was the accumulator last changed? Lever in tiptronic mode - always during basic setting except when instructed?

The symptoms suggest no hydraulic pressure if everything else is correct.

RAB
 
mehdoosttalab said:
2- Connected hydraulic unit-gear lever in stop position or in D position-not a pressed break pedal.
Click to expand...

There's your error - the lever should be in tiptronic mode. Re-read the instructions and follow to the letter.

RAB
 
RAB said:
Have you checked the hydraulic oil level in the reservoir with the hydraulic unit disconnected and the accumulator loosened by half a turn? Is the pump working? When was the accumulator last changed? Lever in tiptronic mode - always during basic setting except when instructed?

The symptoms suggest no hydraulic pressure if everything else is correct.

RAB
Click to expand...

The hydraulic oil level is OK, a VW work shop did it last week (I hope they did it correctly!), I think I have no problem with the pressure, while I could be able to change 4 gears in tiptronic mode (as you suggested in forum).
 
When you set the clutch adaptation, the cable will be loose and you will get errors, which you then have to clear, as per the instructions. You have to perform all three adaptations in the correct order.

Try the German A2 website, www.audi-a2club.de, someone may be able to help you with a full VCDS cable.

RAB
 
Good evening.

My name is Paul and I'm from Portugal. I have a little time a Lupo 3l a beautiful day and the car stops working.

First symptom: I turn on the ignition and the engine does not work.

Second: Diagnosis made ​​with VagCom the module and engine speed box and had no errors.

Third: Now I turn on the ignition and the green light on the dashboard brake pedal does not appear. The shift lever moves from P to R without pressing the brake pedal.

4: tiptronic mode does no work

I changed the acumulator hidralic, the relay 109 and the brake pedal sensor.


I made several tests:

first - called directly from the battery to the starter motor and the engine operates, the lever must be in speeds N to the engine operates.
It concludes that the engine control unit is okay.

Second - when I open the driver's door the battery works for 25 s

third - called directly from the battery to soneloide valve actuator clutch and it does its job.

4 - Adaptation sender travel clutch and got the 1.9 V
Adaptation can not make gear actuator and the error appears RTFM - 12.

I need help ..

thank you
 
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