1.4 AMF oil pump chain and Tensioner

[21iceman21]

Morning all,

My 2001 1.4 AMF has done 172k miles and I don‘t believe the oil pump chain and tensioner has ever been replaced…

I’ve asked WOM for a quote to complete this work, who I know would do a smashing job but I do wonder whether anyone has ever completed this task themselves and if they have any advice to offer. I came across the write up by @Sarge back in 2016 which is very helpful indeed.

Thanks,

Ben

 

[Olerype]

Do dont understand how the chain will brake or slide off. The deeper the grooves are, the more fixed in place the chain will be.

I however understand that the tensioner will finally push the chain to the block and that tensioner finally will reach its max

 

[Robin_Cox]

Do dont understand how the chain will brake or slide off. The deeper the grooves are, the more fixed in place the chain will be.

I however understand that the tensioner will finally push the chain to the block and that tensioner finally will reach its max

There is at least one set of images within A2oc where the sprocket teeth had become partially stripped on at least one sprocket so presumably the chain could have jumped in that situation .. on my AMF the guide was very heavily worn and there were grooves cut by the chain into the cover. Granted, this was at ~295,000 miles / 475,000km.

 

[Weetank2]

The chain also spins the balance shaft
So inertia needs to be factored in?
Not just oil pump drive

 

[TFG]

It is quite a job to change the oil pump chain…
You should assume that the plastic cover inside the sump will need replacement (it is very fragile from age, and it acts as oil pump suction port).
The whole job can be done in one day (assuming a full day and no “surprises”) - but several special tools are needed (something to grab the crankshaft pulley while doing/undoing crank bolt), crankshaft seal tool (or using FKM seal), M7 tap (to clean sump threads), timing locking set.
It is also good to know you’re around such job …
Remember to get o-rings for: oil level sensor, oil dipstick, pump suction port, and set of new bolts (for tensioner, for crank, for crank aux belt pulley, for balancing shaft, for oil pump sprocket), Dirko for sealing stuff (sump, crank seal bracket).

Get proper documentation with torque specs.

Most of all - it can be done

View attachment 105516

Do you know if the sump baffle is still available from VAG and if so, any idea of the part number?

 

[Bordos]

Do you know if the sump baffle is still available from VAG and if so, any idea of the part number?

Yes - it is available, part number is 045103669E

 

[Pie-eyedpiper]

I'd strip the engine and see what condition everything is in. My chain and sprockets were fine and I could have replaced just the tensioner / slipper pad casting. One member replaced just the slipped pads from a new casting onto the old and saved a stack of work.
On the other hand I've seen a crank seal housing worn through by a sloppy chain. In that case everything would need replacing.

Hi Phil,
Is it possible to just change the tensioner/slipper pad casting, without doing all the rest of the work?

 

[Leopard680]

Hi Phil,
Is it possible to just change the tensioner/slipper pad casting, without doing all the rest of the work?

In my view, whilst one is in there, one might as well get everything done whilst access is clear.

Also, I can tell you that prior to this work, Alison had a resonance at 2500- 3000 rpm.

This disappeared after this work was carried out.

Was fairly 'cost neutral' as the clutch was also changed.

 

[Pie-eyedpiper]

In my view, whilst one is in there, one might as well get everything done whilst access is clear.

Also, I can tell you that prior to this work, Alison had a resonance at 2500- 3000 rpm.

This disappeared after this work was carried out.

Was fairly 'cost neutral' as the clutch was also changed.

Oil pump too?
I wonder what the life span is on those.