1.4 AMF oil pump chain and Tensioner

Morning all,

My 2001 1.4 AMF has done 172k miles and I don‘t believe the oil pump chain and tensioner has ever been replaced…

I’ve asked WOM for a quote to complete this work, who I know would do a smashing job but I do wonder whether anyone has ever completed this task themselves and if they have any advice to offer. I came across the write up by @Sarge back in 2016 which is very helpful indeed.

Thanks,

Ben
 
Both of these are BGA oil pumps for an A2 1.4tdi.
Both look completely different and vastly different prices.
Which one is correct?




 
Both of these are BGA oil pumps for an A2 1.4tdi.
Both look completely different and vastly different prices.
Which one is correct?




I've never seen a petrol engined A2 oil pump but I would say the first is diesel and the second petrol.
 
I paid just over £100 on Amazon last year - febi bilstein 32266 Chain Kit for... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0068N3J60?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It shows a £118 now, and with the Febi kit doesn't have the 4th oil pump sprocket.

I bought the FAI one eBay for a similar price, and you get it with that one.

 
It shows a £118 now, and with the Febi kit doesn't have the 4th oil pump sprocket.

I bought the FAI one eBay for a similar price, and you get it with that one.

I'd strip the engine and see what condition everything is in. My chain and sprockets were fine and I could have replaced just the tensioner / slipper pad casting. One member replaced just the slipped pads from a new casting onto the old and saved a stack of work.
On the other hand I've seen a crank seal housing worn through by a sloppy chain. In that case everything would need replacing.
 
I'd strip the engine and see what condition everything is in. My chain and sprockets were fine and I could have replaced just the tensioner / slipper pad casting. One member replaced just the slipped pads from a new casting onto the old and saved a stack of work.
On the other hand I've seen a crank seal housing worn through by a sloppy chain. In that case everything would need replacing.
I've already bought the kit, to go on when my timing belt gets changed.
Once the hard bit of exposing the parts is done it makes economic sense to change them, for peace of mind.
 
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I've already bought the kit, to go on when my timing belt gets changed.
Once the hard bit of exposing the parts is done it makes economic sense to change them, for piece of mind.
I've noticed that members are increasingly going for the nuclear option when it comes to maintenance and did wonder why? I assumed it was because members are enthusiasts and wanted a good well maintained example. Piece of mind for the amount of work involved is something I didn't consider. You have the kit so it should go on. I was in the same situation and despite everything being good except the slippers I fitted it. It is not an easy job and lots can go wrong. 🤞 for you; hope it goes well.
 
I've noticed that members are increasingly going for the nuclear option when it comes to maintenance and did wonder why? I assumed it was because members are enthusiasts and wanted a good well maintained example. Piece of mind for the amount of work involved is something I didn't consider. You have the kit so it should go on. I was in the same situation and despite everything being good except the slippers I fitted it. It is not an easy job and lots can go wrong. 🤞 for you; hope it goes well.

May engine has only done about 75k, it was replaced in 2012 at a similar milage, according to receipts that came with my car.
I'm just "future proofing" everything. I may be being over cautious, but I like the car, it suits my needs. I'd like to keep her a good while longer, so am keen to get as much right as I can.
I won't be doing the timing belt or oil pump chain, all being well my local VAG ind garage will do the work. I have never done a timing belt, although seen my brother-in-law do it many times.
Why is it so difficult and what can go wrong, apart from the obvious tight bolts?
 
May engine has only done about 75k, it was replaced in 2012 at a similar milage, according to receipts that came with my car.
I'm just "future proofing" everything. I may be being over cautious, but I like the car, it suits my needs. I'd like to keep her a good while longer, so am keen to get as much right as I can.
I won't be doing the timing belt or oil pump chain, all being well my local VAG ind garage will do the work. I have never done a timing belt, although seen my brother-in-law do it many times.
Why is it so difficult and what can go wrong, apart from the obvious tight bolts?
The things I found a little challenging were:
Fitting the crank sprocket. It had to be heated to a specified temperature and fitted before it shrinks and won’t budge.
Torquing up the oil pump sprocket, a decent hold tool is required. But if you order a new pump, which it looks like you intend to, it comes with a sprocket fitted.
The sump baffle falls to pieces as it is removed, very brittle.
Could be my car but dipstick tube and oil level transponder were solid and difficult to remove. Dipstick tube broke.
Various bolts stripped out the female thread. Had to repair with coils.
Fitting the crank seal, easy if you get a rubber substitute however PTFE seals are a b****r to fit without the VAG fitting tool.
 
Ah, right
I think it is a good idea leaving it to people who "can" then.
I am fairly spanner proficient, but stuff is bound to go wrong, being so old. That said my engine has only done 75k, but is now 11 years old.
 
Even more curiosour, this pump cross references to an FAI and a Febi oil pump for an '02 1.4tdi AMF.

 
Not bragging, as I wasn't aware of this part or service interval, but 240,000 miles and I'm still on the same one.

How much would it cost to have this replaced? and if say the timing belt was being changed is there any advantage to doing at the same time?
 
It is quite a job to change the oil pump chain…
You should assume that the plastic cover inside the sump will need replacement (it is very fragile from age, and it acts as oil pump suction port).
The whole job can be done in one day (assuming a full day and no “surprises”) - but several special tools are needed (something to grab the crankshaft pulley while doing/undoing crank bolt), crankshaft seal tool (or using FKM seal), M7 tap (to clean sump threads), timing locking set.
It is also good to know you’re around such job …
Remember to get o-rings for: oil level sensor, oil dipstick, pump suction port, and set of new bolts (for tensioner, for crank, for crank aux belt pulley, for balancing shaft, for oil pump sprocket), Dirko for sealing stuff (sump, crank seal bracket).

Get proper documentation with torque specs.

Most of all - it can be done :)

1E3FFD88-FCD8-4171-8258-52F0509AFB3D.jpeg
 
The grooves in the orange plastic guides do not worry that much; they will reach a certain depth and then they can not be any deeper due to the chain middle part.
 
The grooves in the orange plastic guides do not worry that much; they will reach a certain depth and then they can not be any deeper due to the chain middle part.
You are right - but when it does reach this limit - in the next step this chain will brake or get off the slide - in both options it will damage the engine.
 
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